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Thread: Switchblock Question

  1. #11
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    Okay, I looked and looked and looked at pictures, but unless the top of the rail comes off, I don't see how the entire rail assy. is removed without removing first the Switchblock. Am I just not seeing it, or is the top rail's removal dependent upon removing first the SB?

    I can see how the front portion and sides of the rail remove, but not how the top would be taken off considering that I am thinking that the circular part of the rail that the 6 screws bolt to is 1-piece full 360* and monolithic with the top rail. This would prevent the rail from being removed as the top rail has 0 room to move forward, and it cannot tilt up due to clearance with the barrel-nut.

    Is this correct, or is the top-rail not monolithic to the portion interfacing with the barrel nut, or am I just modeling it wrong in my mind, or what?


  2. #12
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    The top rail behind the Switchblock comes off. Then the rest of the rail can just slide forward.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd.K View Post
    The top rail behind the Switchblock comes off. Then the rest of the rail can just slide forward.
    Ah! I had it backwards, thanks! Does it still have the anti-rotational device/dowel-pin? It looks in the picture above that there may not be room for it since the top-section must slide straight forward to come off the dowel, wouldn't it? I am assuming that the screws at the rear do double-duty holding the top rail down and the hand-guard as a whole to the barrel-nut?

    Really wish there were one of these local that I could just put my hands on

    Also, I have heard that the switch-block needs to be moved from time to time to keep carbon fouling from freezing it up. Have you guys ever had to repair/replace/fix/advise a customer on a locked up SB, or will a bit of penetrating type solvent get it moving again if one forgets to move the selector once in a while?
    Last edited by WS6; 08-11-11 at 14:02.

  4. #14
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    Anyone have a pic of the rail in its respective pieces?

  5. #15
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    The best thing to do is rotate it a few times after shooting to keep it from sticking.

    I've loosened a few by soaking them with solvent, then rotating it a few times with the wrench.

    I don't have any pics of the rail parts.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd.K View Post
    The best thing to do is rotate it a few times after shooting to keep it from sticking.

    I've loosened a few by soaking them with solvent, then rotating it a few times with the wrench.

    I don't have any pics of the rail parts.
    Thanks. Just concerned about adding moving parts to the system I guess. Does the SB rail have the anti-rotational pin in the same manner the conventional rail does?

  7. #17
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    Same pin as the regular one piece HG.

  8. #18
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    ^From what I understand, you're the guy to ask.

    Can you pin an AAC 51T MITER mount into a 14.5" chrome-lined gun, or do you not stock/pin those?

    Bought an AAC SPR/M4, and Mr. Mers recommended that I still go with the SB, even though the reflex design of the can helps a lot with gas blow-back. It will be used in semi, not full-auto.

    I have seen on another forum where you recommended that this hand-guard only be removed by Noveske, as well as the gas-tube being changed only by Noveske as well. Is there a reason for this that goes beyond the fact that if something CAN go together wrong, someone WILL do it?
    Last edited by WS6; 08-15-11 at 16:27.

  9. #19
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    We pin the MITER mount.

    The rail is not difficult to remove, it's just not designed to be taken off for regular maintenance. The Switchblock has several parts that all need to be aligned properly so it's easy to mess up if you don't know what you are doing.

  10. #20
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    Anyone know if the gas-rings used in the SB are standard AR-15 bolt-tail gas rings, or are they proprietary? Are they necessary for function?

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