Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: Best way to prep My Smith M&P 15-22 for paint

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canon city Co. at the moment
    Posts
    3,076
    Feedback Score
    5 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Underwhere View Post
    The stuff I do is Cerakote. It's the most durable stuff I've ever used and in a year's time it'll pretty much look the same.

    All I'm saying is that for spray paint there's no reason to "go all out"...if you really wanted to prep it the "right" way you could scuff, drown in water and Dawn, wipe with alcohol, spray an adhesion promoter, prime it with plastic primer, then spray it.

    Maybe we just differ in our belief in spray paint but if I did all that prep work, there's no way I'd use a can of spray paint on it.
    Okay well why didnt you say that before lol, youre talking about carakote man, Im talking about cans, I was merely saying that using a can or not...you should have a good prep, I never said spend 5 hours on it.

    The helmets I used to paint took me about a hour, that was completely stripping it down, visor, rubber trim, all hardware, foam inserts etc, and that included wet sand and masking.

    A guy I know was spray canning his rifle, by FAR one of the worst jobs I have ever seen. If Im gonna use a can I want to make sure to make people say "Damn thats a spray can??" Lol
    Quote Originally Posted by Split66 View Post
    I wouldnt listen to BCMjunkie. His brown camo clashes like hell with his surroundings. His surroundings are obviously pinkish and lacey and have big hooties.

    Instagram Dangertastic
    Danger@Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/m41979/

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    115
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by BCmJUnKie View Post
    Okay well why didnt you say that before lol, youre talking about carakote man, Im talking about cans, I was merely saying that using a can or not...you should have a good prep, I never said spend 5 hours on it.

    The helmets I used to paint took me about a hour, that was completely stripping it down, visor, rubber trim, all hardware, foam inserts etc, and that included wet sand and masking.

    A guy I know was spray canning his rifle, by FAR one of the worst jobs I have ever seen. If Im gonna use a can I want to make sure to make people say "Damn thats a spray can??" Lol
    I'm talking about spray cans too. Cerakote involves media blasting and removing oil via heat.

    If for some reason I were to ever spray can a rifle and I wanted it to be a show piece and never play with it I would prep it as I had previously described.

    I just don't think it's worth it to go through the trouble for spray paint...but I guess that's where we differ.

    I can get pretty lasting results by scuffing and degreasing before paint.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    115
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by BCmJUnKie View Post
    I dont give a shit if im using House of Kolor, One shot, Dupont or krylon. Its called taking a little pride in what you do. Ive been painting for around 6 years for Indy racers, MotoGP, Karts, dragsters etc etc blah blah blah.

    People see my portfolio and cant tell the difference between Krylon or HOK...And who said anything about taking 8 hours? How long does it take you to prep a surface???

    And youre exactly right, people spend thousands of dollars on a rifle, why half ass it, I dont give a shit if its Krylon, take your time and show a little pride in your work.

    Im pretty sure the OP asked for best way to prep a rifle, He didnt ask about shortcuts or what you do to yours. The business Im in is CONSTANT fixing other peoples **** ups that could have been done right THE FIRST TIME!
    So are you saying my method which entails scuffing and wiping down with alcohol is cutting corners?

    I think you're taking the internet a little too personal.

    Here is me cutting corners:



  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canon city Co. at the moment
    Posts
    3,076
    Feedback Score
    5 (100%)
    [QUOTE=Underwhere;1069538]So are you saying my method which entails scuffing and wiping down with alcohol is cutting corners?

    I think you're taking the internet a little too personal.

    Im not taking it personal at all, That looks like a great job you have done...hows it gonna look in a year?

    I think youre taking me wrong man, I dont know how you do things, you dont know how I do them,

    Im thinking about the guy thats asking for the best possible way, why tell him he only needs to wipe it down? why not give him the proper way to scuff and create the best possible substrate for his paint to stick to, hes not asking for anyone to come and do the labor.

    edit: Im not easy on ANY of my weapons, I dont own a single safe queen, my stuff gets used on a weekly basis, I need a good prep before I paint
    Last edited by BCmJUnKie; 08-08-11 at 00:22.
    Quote Originally Posted by Split66 View Post
    I wouldnt listen to BCMjunkie. His brown camo clashes like hell with his surroundings. His surroundings are obviously pinkish and lacey and have big hooties.

    Instagram Dangertastic
    Danger@Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/m41979/

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canon city Co. at the moment
    Posts
    3,076
    Feedback Score
    5 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Underwhere View Post
    I'm talking about spray cans too. Cerakote involves media blasting and removing oil via heat.

    If for some reason I were to ever spray can a rifle and I wanted it to be a show piece and never play with it I would prep it as I had previously described.

    I just don't think it's worth it to go through the trouble for spray paint...but I guess that's where we differ.

    I can get pretty lasting results by scuffing and degreasing before paint.
    I guess so. I do thing s the same no matter what im working with, spray can or not, Im gonna make sure its done right. Show pieces or not.
    Quote Originally Posted by Split66 View Post
    I wouldnt listen to BCMjunkie. His brown camo clashes like hell with his surroundings. His surroundings are obviously pinkish and lacey and have big hooties.

    Instagram Dangertastic
    Danger@Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/m41979/

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    3,742
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    A good foundation before painting is key. Though some people want the chipped/peeled look.

    But it's always been my impression that paint adheres the best to a rough oil-free environment. Anodizing and parkerizing are pretty rough and shouldn't need any scuffing(in fact I think it might wind up wearing it down and smoother.)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    220
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by thopkins22 View Post
    But it's always been my impression that paint adheres the best to a rough oil-free environment. Anodizing and parkerizing are pretty rough and shouldn't need any scuffing(in fact I think it might wind up wearing it down and smoother.)
    The factory finishes typically have enough tooth to make the paint adhere. The important part is to remove the oils.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cesspool, CA
    Posts
    170
    Feedback Score
    12 (100%)
    +1 to rough enough

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NE TN
    Posts
    596
    Feedback Score
    15 (100%)
    Like many other things, it depends on your final intended purpose. Do you want to put on the absolute best finish that will last as long as materially possible, or do you just want to change the color of the gun without much hassle and with little regard for the durability, expecting to have to touch it up?

    I personally chose the latter and just rattle-canned mine. I blasted it with brake cleaner, hit it with a brush in a couple of spots, let it dry, and went to work. I didn't scuff anything. You can see the result here: https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.p...&postcount=633

    It's not real pretty, and I don't care. I just basically wanted rid of the black, and I wanted to try to achieve at least some kind of effective camouflage—a goal I didn't quite reach, but that's another conversation.

    I've used the gun quite a bit since then, including monthly 3-gun matches. I don't exactly baby the thing either. It never flaked or peeled, but it did scuff in a few places, mainly from the sling rubbing on the MOE handguard, nothing major and easy to touch up if desired. I did use Aervoe paint which I think has contributed to the durability.

    I just repainted it this past weekend, not because It needed it, but because I wanted to try a different pattern. If I hadn't, I believe the paint would have lasted for quite a long while yet (or will last, since I just painted over it).

    Now, it's not going to look as good up close or last as long as a finish on a fastidiously prepared surface, but it still holds up for quite some time.

    So, if you want it to be the best it can be, follow BCmJUnKie's knowledgeable advice. Or, you can go my route and do the minimal amount and just cover the thing.

    Just depends on what you're looking for.
    “All falsehood is a mask, and however well made the mask may be, with a little attention we may always distinguish it from the true face.”

    State of Franklin Training Group

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    2
    Feedback Score
    0
    I'm very thankful to all you guys who replied on the info and input on my question. Thanks again every single one of you

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •