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Thread: Flash hider has got me stumped

  1. #21
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    Thanks Eric but I'm going to try the wood blocks and rubber tube route suggested by Hmac. I've just got to cut my grooves on the blocks and wait until my neighbor is free.
    Between two groups of people who want to make inconsistent kinds of worlds, I see no remedy but force. - Oliver Wendell Holmes.

  2. #22
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    Also, check to see if you need a thin open end wrench. When I installed my Battlecomp, I used an open end wrench of normal thickness. As the crush washer expanded in diameter as it crushed, it pressed against the wrench, made installation more difficult than it needed to be and marred the BC & crush washer.

    Try lining the grooves of the wood blocks with masking tape or leather to help keep the barrel from slipping while torquing
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    Also, check to see if you need a thin open end wrench. When I installed my Battlecomp, I used an open end wrench of normal thickness. As the crush washer expanded in diameter as it crushed, it pressed against the wrench, made installation more difficult than it needed to be and marred the BC & crush washer.

    Try lining the grooves of the wood blocks with masking tape or leather to help keep the barrel from slipping while torquing
    Good advice, thanks. I have an adjustable wrench I think will give a little when the washer expands. I'll be using a piece of garden hose to clamshell the barrel to use as a buffer between the wood and barrel; I think that'll work.
    Between two groups of people who want to make inconsistent kinds of worlds, I see no remedy but force. - Oliver Wendell Holmes.

  4. #24
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    I strongly advise that you DO NOT use an adjustable wrench. It WILL slip, mar the finish and round the corners. If it would help, I'll try to dig up the camera & wrenches & take a couple photos. I'll need a bit of time to unpack them
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    I strongly advise that you DO NOT use an adjustable wrench. It WILL slip, mar the finish and round the corners. If it would help, I'll try to dig up the camera & wrenches & take a couple photos. I'll need a bit of time to unpack them
    I'll see what my neighbor has. He's got a garage full of tools. Thanks again.
    Between two groups of people who want to make inconsistent kinds of worlds, I see no remedy but force. - Oliver Wendell Holmes.

  6. #26
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    Line it up first

    Just went thru the same process w/ my "previously owned" BC 1.0. I might suggest using a silver ink marker to mark the dead center top of the BC (or other FH) front and rear. Then mark the top of the bbl. the same way closest to the threads. Now you have an easy visual reference point when you get to the last turn as the crush washer flattens out. Much better than guessing if you went too far past or need to go a hair more. Do the incremental tighting process also, don't do it in one shot. I put a very light film of oil on the threads and crush washer before tightning. For clamping in a vise, if you do not have rubber jaw covers, take an old leather work glove and cut the fingers off and split the side seams. Now you have a flexable, tough and easy to position wrap for the bbl. in the vise. An old bicycle inner tube can also be used with a few wraps around. I had written to Battle Comp asking for instructions, they responded the next day with clear directions as seen in their post to you.

  7. #27
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    This is what I'm talking about with the wrenches. On the right is the tappet wrench. It's thinner. On the left is the standard wrench. It's thicker and when I used it to install the BC, the crush washer pressed up against the wrench. You can see the shiny spot where it damaged the crush washer slightly. It also marred the finish of the BC although tape was used to protect it
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  8. #28
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    Gotcha. I'm still waiting for some vise time.
    Between two groups of people who want to make inconsistent kinds of worlds, I see no remedy but force. - Oliver Wendell Holmes.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric View Post
    You need this from Brownells, or something similar.
    That's the ticket. If you don't have enough space on the barrel for full length jaws, you can always chop a pair of those so they'll fit between the handguard and the end of the barrel. Aluminum is soft.

    Skinny wrenches are also the way to go, so you don't ding up the crush washer. If a 3/4" fits loose, try a 19mm to avoid marring your flash hider.
    Oh no, not another lube thread! Read this first: Lubrication 101.

  10. #30
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    Use a peel washer!

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