Hardening the home for defense

**Just a Jarhead** · 08-14-11, 05:21

3M window film on windows to prevent molatov cocktails entering if someone doesn't have hurricane shutters or they're not common to your area. Completely discrete & will make your windows shatter proof. Ballistic windows are friggin expensive. I've looked into it.

Something you 'll want to consider...if you have some sort of lighting for night if we have rolling blackouts or electricty hits the crapper ever, battery powerd lanterns, candles, kersosene lamps etc make sure you have black plastic and a good quality tape to tape up windows to black out your house. You don't want to be the only one with light. It screams I'm prepared. Your house will be like a "lighthouse beacon" otherwise!

**a1fabweld** · 08-14-11, 10:19

Originally Posted by Kfgk14

Anything else I can do to harden against burglary, looting, etc.? What are your plans for doing such? should I put bars on first-floor windows?

Steel is good for hardening. a 3/16"-1/4" plate on the back of your wood should stop larger caliber rounds. Have plates sheared to size & pre drilled to quickly attach them to your wood window & door covers.

**Kfgk14** · 08-14-11, 10:52

Originally Posted by a1fabweld

Steel is good for hardening. a 3/16"-1/4" plate on the back of your wood should stop larger caliber rounds. Have plates sheared to size & pre drilled to quickly attach them to your wood window & door covers.

That's a good point. Between the two inches of oak and the plate, that would probably stop any handgun rounds, shotgun, and light rifle fire right?

I can't bring the bags inside, floor could never take that kind of weight. Maybe cover them in tyvek on the outside, stretched tight, and make it look like a house under construction?

I'm going to look into the 3M/IBM window film. Sounds like an economical way to add ballistic protection.

**Guns-up.50** · 08-14-11, 12:35

Originally Posted by Thomas M-4

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I would reconsider that part I can take a $100 SKS and put holes through and through a roof. 2 sheets of 3/4" ply wood , shingles and a layer of tar paper is nothing to a 7.62X39mm. It wood take a tremendous amount of sand bags to construct a bunker on a roof not to mention if the roof would even hold up to that weight.

If you have only one way in and out I would construct a intrenched fighting position in a bend of the road and try my best to clear the fields of fire. And have a BO plan.

It was a joke..... if i remember correctly the Alamo didnt work out to well

**Dave L.** · 08-14-11, 12:54

Originally Posted by Kfgk14

That's a good point. Between the two inches of oak and the plate, that would probably stop any handgun rounds, shotgun, and light rifle fire right?

You need to conduct tests. Make a bunch of "samples" and shoot them with different bullets. Check it first with 5.56 ball ammo. I have 1/2" AR500 steel targets (hardened to 50 Rockwell) and 5.56 ball will dent the shit out of them at 25-50 yards. Half inch plates of AR500 is going to get really expensive and really heavy.

Bottom line, never ASSume.

Sand bags should never be placed on the outside of the house. It will only draw attention.

**Just a Jarhead** · 08-14-11, 16:13

Steel plate is some heavy stuff guys. Here's a steel plate calculator for weight. It can be done you just have to plan it properly.
http://www.chapelsteel.com/weight-steel-plate.html

With my bullet proof barn design, I had already thoroughly looked into it. The design I came up with called for regular glass windows around the barn. To the left of each window in the interior were steel tracks that also ran across top and bottom of the window. The plate was on rollers gliding on the tracks and rested to the left of the window. If a threat presented itself you, you lift the bottom of the double hung window open & just slide the plate over in front of the window nice & fast. A cross + shaped opening about 10" x 10" and the cut to be 4" wide to be cut out with a torch or plasma cutter. Got the cross opening idea from Rawles' book "Patriots" which Rawles got from Clint Eastwoods "Outlaw Josey Wales". When I was designing the bulletproofing, I watched the movie again to get a better idea.The plate steel was to be covered with some kind of fabric to discretely hide them during normal times and if you remember the walls were filled with sand. Everything was to be discretely hidden.

Here's some bullet proof plate steel info.
http://www.somaxsteel.com/Html/produ...=25&sortid=121

**a1fabweld** · 08-14-11, 17:14

From my 1st hand experience, through a 16" barreled AR, I can say that std XM193 will penetrate 1/4" mild steel plate no problem. SS109 will penetrate 3/8" mild steel plate no problem. I haven't found a 5.56/.223 round that will penetrate 1/2" mild steel plate.

German 147grn 7.62 NATO fired from a 16" barrel in a gas gun put a large dimple in the back of 1/2" MS plate, but didn't penetrate it. The same ammo fired from a 22" barreled gas gun did penetrate it clean through.

All testing was done at approx 25yds.

**Str8Jacket722** · 08-14-11, 17:49

Originally Posted by Thomas M-4

[/B]

I would reconsider that part I can take a $100 SKS and put holes through and through a roof. 2 sheets of 3/4" ply wood , shingles and a layer of tar paper is nothing to a 7.62X39mm. It wood take a tremendous amount of sand bags to construct a bunker on a roof not to mention if the roof would even hold up to that weight.

If you have only one way in and out I would construct a intrenched fighting position in a bend of the road and try my best to clear the fields of fire. And have a BO plan.

Well! In that case, I'm going to go Hobbit style and live underground. I'll be able to maintain area control, clear fields of fire and plan my death accordingly.