Already put the drill to it. I'd rather put the drill to my own head than call Baer. Those people make Pol Pot seem like customer service rep of the year.
I think I can sand down the lug a little bit and get it done. If not, recycle bin.
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Already put the drill to it. I'd rather put the drill to my own head than call Baer. Those people make Pol Pot seem like customer service rep of the year.
I think I can sand down the lug a little bit and get it done. If not, recycle bin.
Colt SP6920, LE6920, 6720
BCM Lower/ARP 6.8SPC upper for hog hunting
DD M4V5 clone, Troy 5.56 Carbine, S&W M&P10
PSA Lower/BCM LW 16" middie CHF upper
PSA Lower/BCM LW 14.5" middie upper
2 PSA 18"6.8 rifles, PSA 20" M16A4 clone
Remington 870, Remington 700VTR
SA XDm9, XDm9C, , XD9SC S&W 1911
Ruger GP100, Hawkeye77 Compact 6.8SPC
Kel-Tec KSG, Marlin 336 30-30, HK 45C, VP9
Sig 1911 Tacops, Scorpion 1911, M11A1, P226 Mk25
My DD V3 middy's pivot lug is super tight on my S&W M&P lower & on my new PSA lower build. I need a mallet & wooden dowel to get it out. The rear lug is normal. I was hoping it would loosen up with use, but that ain't happening, so I may have to do something about it.
"It's hard to imagine a more stupid or more dangerous way of making decisions than by putting those decisions in the hands of people who pay no price for being wrong."
Thomas Sowell
If only the lug was tight I might be able to live with it, which is where I'm trying to get this one to now. Provided it mates up, the pins go in/out easy, and I can rotate on the pivot pin, I'll make do with the rest.
I'm getting close to that now on one test stripped lower with lose pins. Dewalt > Baer.![]()
INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
- ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
- MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
- MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
- BOOM!
- HA-HA!!
-WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"
I am American
I may be to late, but don't use power anything. The aluminum will cut very quick. I had one upper I built that was a bit tight. I was able to just use a .25" reamer (straight flute) to fix it. 320 grit sand paper wrapped around a 7/32" drill bit would work good to fine tune the hole. Also, you will never get an accurate ID measurement of a small hole using a caliper. You need pin gauges or a cheaper method is to use wire gauge drill bits, but they are not precision ground.
Jeremy
Yep, you're too late. And the drill worked great by all indications to this point. With as ridiculously tight as this thing was I would have been there for days with any sort of hand-power.
While I know I won't get an accurate ID, it's close enough for these purposes AND it's close enough to determine that the rear hole is round and not oval.
Are you concerned with losing surface hardness?
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