San Diego Power Outage-Generator

[sgtjosh]

As some of you might be aware, all of San Diego County is without power. I live in the rural mountains/high desert of east county.

A few years ago, we had blackouts due to wildfires. San Diego Gas and Electric announced a plan to shut off power proactively in the event of future wildfires. As a preemptive measure, I bought a Coleman Powermate 6750 portable generator.

My neighbors are using candles. I watched the Packers-Saints game on my HDTV. The only thing I can not use are my air conditioning.

How hard/expensive is it to have an electrician set up my electrical panel, so I can hook up my generator and run everything?

I can live without AC, but HH6 is not happy. It is expected to be 100+ degrees tomorrow.

[Just a Jarhead]

http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/FAQtransfersws.html

An electrician has to pull the meter and install the transfer switch and install a separate sub-panel which contains circuit breakers just for the things you want to run off the generator and then tie it into the main panel, then a connection box to plug the generator into. This is not a do it yourself project for most people as it seems you already know. Done incorrectly and it can back feed and kill a lineman. Expect to pay $500-$1000

[jet66]

If you have a central A/C unit, that might not be quite enough generator to run the A/C and everything else. When we were without power for several weeks during the 2004 hurricane season, our old generator (may have even been the same model you have) would run most everything else in the house that didn't have a heating element. (That included ceiling fans, a couple of TV's, a laptop and hi-speed modem, basic lights, well pump, and two fridges.) Our A/C is only a 1-1/2 ton, and even it was too much when added to a minimal load. Even though the generator may be rated at 8kw max, the most I'd be comfortable running long-term would be down well under 6kw. Otherwise you start pushing the gen too hard and eating gas quicker.

What we did at night time was turn off everything else in the house, close our bedroom door, and run a small window unit A/C, to at least get a good night sleep. You could probably adapt/adopt a similar plan at least for now, depending on what your total needs are, including the A/C.

If you are looking at a transfer switch set up, I'd also look at a bigger LP whole-house generator that will allow you to function as close to normal as you prefer. It's a little more money, but they are nice. I'd like to do it, but I just don't have the space in the right places for a tank to meet local codes.

[Nathan_Bell]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...h=1&sst=subset

I have a Large standby unit, fully automatic fire up and switching.

For a small limited usage application, you can go a couple routes.
1. Is to have a sub panel installed along your breaker box that has the circuits that you would want to energize with your backup, and put the switch between that and your main panel. That way you simply have toswitch that panel on than hit the generator.

2. Have the switch between your main panel and the meter. You would then need to hit the switch, turn off all circuits that you do not want the generator to run, then fire up the genset.

Linked to some options for both.

[DJK]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...h=1&sst=subset

I have a Large standby unit, fully automatic fire up and switching.

For a small limited usage application, you can go a couple routes.
1. Is to have a sub panel installed along your breaker box that has the circuits that you would want to energize with your backup, and put the switch between that and your main panel. That way you simply have to switch that panel on than hit the generator.

2. Have the switch between your main panel and the meter. You would then need to hit the switch, turn off all circuits that you do not want the generator to run, then fire up the genset.

Linked to some options for both.

Here in Florida, we have regular power outages. Lots of them!! When I set up my generator, I went with Nathan's #1 suggestion. If I had to do it again, I would go with #2. Check this out: http://www.generlink.com/about_generlink.cfm

[Just a Jarhead]

Here in Florida, we have regular power outages. Lots of them!! When I set up my generator, I went with Nathan's #1 suggestion. If I had to do it again, I would go with #2. Check this out: http://www.generlink.com/about_generlink.cfm

Hey that Generlink looks like the best simple solution. What does that cost? No price listed on website. You have to call for pricing. That usually is a redflag!

ETA:Also do you know how many kw it will handle?

[DJK]

Hey that Generlink looks like the best simple solution. What does that cost? No price listed on website. You have to call for pricing. That usually is a redflag!

ETA:Also do you know how many kw it will handle?

It came out after I did my setup, so I never followed up on it. If you go ahead and check it out, let us know for future reference.

[Just a Jarhead]

It came out after I did my setup, so I never followed up on it. If you go ahead and check it out, let us know for future reference.

Called. Not all Power companies allow so case by case basis. Was told mine, Florida Power & Light does. 30 & 40 amp units, 30 amp can handle 9kw watt generator, 40 amp can handle 15kw. $550-$720 plus install around $100. Includes 20' proprietary cord.

ETA: Also told meter has to be of current standard or that needs to be upgraded so need to check with power company.

[sgtjosh]

If you have a central A/C unit, that might not be quite enough generator to run the A/C and everything else. When we were without power for several weeks during the 2004 hurricane season, our old generator (may have even been the same model you have) would run most everything else in the house that didn't have a heating element. (That included ceiling fans, a couple of TV's, a laptop and hi-speed modem, basic lights, well pump, and two fridges.) Our A/C is only a 1-1/2 ton, and even it was too much when added to a minimal load. Even though the generator may be rated at 8kw max, the most I'd be comfortable running long-term would be down well under 6kw. Otherwise you start pushing the gen too hard and eating gas quicker.

What we did at night time was turn off everything else in the house, close our bedroom door, and run a small window unit A/C, to at least get a good night sleep. You could probably adapt/adopt a similar plan at least for now, depending on what your total needs are, including the A/C.

If you are looking at a transfer switch set up, I'd also look at a bigger LP whole-house generator that will allow you to function as close to normal as you prefer. It's a little more money, but they are nice. I'd like to do it, but I just don't have the space in the right places for a tank to meet local codes.

I know it will handle the window unit. Our next door neighbor has a newborn, so I went over and offered him a hook up. He ran his refrigerator, TV, lights and window unit.

[DJK]

Called. Not all Power companies allow so case by case basis. Was told mine, Florida Power & Light does. 30 & 40 amp units, 30 amp can handle 9kw watt generator, 40 amp can handle 15kw. $550-$720 plus install around $100. Includes 20' proprietary cord.

ETA: Also told meter has to be of current standard or that needs to be upgraded so need to check with power company.

I'm in Florida too. We have Peace River which gets it's electricity from FPL. I first heard of Generlink from Peace River. That is not a bad price for a very easy way to hook up. I did my set up in 2001 and the parts from HD cost me $230 plus another $200 to an electrician for the labor.

I run a 5kw portable which allows me to move it to another location, if needed. I can power up my kitchen including the ice box and microwave or turn off the microwave and power up the master bedroom and bath. Hot coffee and my wife can dry her hair after a cold shower. Nothing better after a hurricane.