Terrain Model Kits

[johnpuga1982]

Anyone on here have any advice for building a terrain model kit? What worked and did not work for you?

[HES]

What are you looking to build one for? In my current life I build terrain models for scouts these days so they can get their 1st class rank or Orienteering Merit badge. However what I do today is what I did way back when...I used multiple containers of different colored sand that you pick up from any art supply store like Michael's or hobby lobby. I build the models out of the dirt and sticks and mosses / lichens I can find, then sprinkle the required sand to simulate water or grass or what not. At the end of the day it's easy to dispose of

Or are you looking for something permanent that you can transport and reuse? Say something on a 2'x4' 4' x 4' piece of plywood? If so your best bet is to hit up Michael's / hobby lobby or a hobby store that sells model railroading supplies. Short of the long plaster, strips of drywall seam repair stuff, rolled up newspaper, and masking tape are your friends. If you wanna cheat you can get rolls of plaster impregnated cloth. If you never did this stuff as a kid there are tons of "how to's" on google and Youtube. Either way these will be your best, and most importantly, cheapest, ways to do this.

[johnpuga1982]

I recently switched from being enlisted to a cadet. Part of our packing list is a terrain model kit. It will be used to brief missions at the squad and platoon level.

[telecustom]

For an ROTC terrain model kit, I found the following items very useful:

Yarn: Black, Blue, Red, Yellow, White
Little Green Army Men
Icons for each element Friendly and enemy (it helps to weight and laminate them) I used pennies as weights.

I'm sure you can think of other stuff too.

[CRAMBONE]

Different colored strings (para cord, yarn etc), note cards for labeling items of importance, baby powder or other colored powder, possibly some laminated military symbols. And hell I have used plastic "army men" before.

Alot of the items I have used in the past for terrain models was gathered from the location. Sticks, twigs, sand etc.

Make sure you actually build your model to match the terrain, meaning include elevation deviations and put roads and obstacles where they actually are on your maps or sketches.

And a trick I learned was to use white string for grid lines, only make sure you space them out enough to actually work.

[MrCleanOK]

Pretty much everything you do as a cadet will be based on basic infantry stuff, specifically squad and platoon attack battle drills.

• For things that will be common to every model, I like to have laminated cards with the graphics already on them, weighted with a penny or two on the back. Things like:
  CCP
  OBJ
  Assembly Area
  Unit frames (in your case, friendly and enemy infantry squad & platoon)
  Checkpoints
  "Distance, Direction, Backstop" to be written on with alcohol pen
  North-seeking arrow
  Support By Fire & Attack By Fire position graphics
  Several blank laminated cards to write in mission specific graphics
  
• Include alcohol pens and dry erase markers to write on your blank cards. You can supplement your kit with LGAM, but they tend to make the kit bulky.
  
• 550 cord and engineer tape are more durable than yarn, but yarn is way cheaper and available in more colors.
  
• Plan it out, supplement with materials from your surroundings, and you can put together a great terrain model kit that will fit into an empty MRE bag. Very lightweight and packable.
  

FM 1-02 Operational Terms and Graphics is your friend. Read through it, and see which graphic symbols will be useful to you. With terrain models, KISS is often the best approach. Putting too much detail on your model will make it cluttered and hard to understand unless you are meticulous, which you rarely have time for. A good litmus test for when your terrain model is "done", is to have a buddy that doesn't know the operation look at your model and tell you what the mission is.

[johnpuga1982]

Thanks everyone. After using the TMK a few times I've gotten a better idea of what is and isn't needed. Depending on the mission, there's anywhere from 40 to 60 mins to LD. Using the one-third/two-thirds rule to brief the OPORD doesn't give you much time. One of the things I could improve on is developing better priorities of work. Any suggestions on what subtasks I should be aware of and/or incorporating?

[MrCleanOK]

You can pretty safely delegate paragraphs 1, 4 and 5 if you have people you can trust to do it. Paragraphs 2 and 3 are where the money is.

Delegate setting up the terrain model, with instructions for what you want on it, key terrain, etc. You can then put down your mission graphics and refine as needed.

PCIs can be delegated if you are really pressed for time, but you should make an effort to be involved.

Identify battle drills needed for the mission, and have your soldiers do rehearsals.

If you have enough time with your squad/platoon, establish SOPs and battle drills. It will help streamline the opord brief, rehearsals and the mission itself.

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[MrCleanOK]

Also, make good use of the warno. It will allow you to stick to the 1/3 rule, and adequately plan your opord. There is a reason it is step 2 of the troop leading procedures.

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[run n gun]

Well delegate your PCC's and your PCI should just be a spot check. I'm sure you know by now but your OPORD and terrain model are money when you're getting evaluated.