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Thread: How important is it not to have a oil hole?

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofc.JL View Post
    Gentlemen,
    IIRC, the "weep" hole for the forward takedown pin detent spring was done in a product improvement enhancement program that became that grand old weapon that some of us old farts hold in high esteem: the M16A1. I recall that when the M16 was enhanced for adoption, the weep hole was put to do exactly what you gentlemen have mentioned. Drain water and/or oil the spring. Mainly to fight the spring and pin freeze up from corrosion. 'Nam was a very wet place during the Monsoons. History of the M16 system was such that it was adopted w/o a shakedown and several serious problems
    came to light. Us old Troopers remember the reports of the rifle jamming from carbon build up and several U S soldiers died with inop weapons in their hands(God keep and hold those brave men!) The resulting investigations revealed the problems and several improvements were instigated with the resulting weapon being adopted as the M16A1. So if you carry a rifle that gets wet and never dries out, you need a weep hole, other than that, don't worry about it. A civilian rifle will probably not see hostile conditions bad enough to cause a problem. A small drop of CLP or the like every now and then and no problems. FWIW- Carry On! JL

    I don't mean to by picky or off topic but a M16A1 is not a replacement for an M16.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by MASP7 View Post
    Convenient backstepping, but unfortunally neither way works.
    The weep hole was never designed for assembly. It was designed for drainage and lubrication.
    I hope that Nationwide is going to post pictures here of how his procedure works. Hint hint. Come on, Nationwide, you could be famous. The weep-hole method will forevermore be known as the 'Nationwide Method.' []

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MASP7 View Post
    Yeah, I did.
    Both theoretically and practically, by trying it.

    Look at the pic I posted.

    The depth of the detent spring hole is 1.00"
    The weep hole is at 0.900"
    The detent spring is 1.100" long.


    These are the "instructions" that were posted. Do they make sense?

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    >Insert front pivot spring into receiver.

    >Depress with punch/pin past hole.
    (How is it possible to compress a 1.10" OAL spring into a recess that is 0.10" deep, and then capture it? Even capturing the small amount that is possible in the last 0.10" does not relieve enough spring pressure to keep the spring from protruding from the receiver, let alone inserting the detent in the hole without spring pressure.

    >Insert smaller diameter pin/punch into hole and capture (hold) spring

    >Remove first punch/pin.

    >Insert front pivot detent.

    >Insert front pivot pin.

    >Remove capture punch/pin and apply spring pressure to front pivot pin detent.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Also, notice that the "instructions" state to "Depress with punch/pin past hole", but he then retracts that and states "You just need to keep it from putting tension on the detent while you are assembling the front pivot...".

    Convenient backstepping, but unfortunally neither way works.
    The weep hole was never designed for assembly. It was designed for drainage and lubrication.

    Wow. You really have a lot invested in this issue.

    I feel sorry for you

    ETA: Let me guess, you are going to be marketing a "new and improved AR-15 and clones weep hole".

    Go old school, and contract with CavArms to make it for you, MagPul is over played today

  4. #44
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    Still hoping....

    Come on Nationwide, how long does it take to snap a few photos and create a little write-up?

  5. #45
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    Guys since this is my thread, I have a question. Is it worth it to drill a hole in my LMT lowers that I bought 2-LMT Lowers after the ban that they don't have the oil holes at the front pin hole/take down pin?

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lawdog-1 View Post
    All guys since this is mt thread, I have a question. Is it worth it to drill a hole in mt LMT lower that I bought after the ban that doesn't have the oil hole at the front pin hole/take down pin?
    I wouldn't worry about it.
    Instructor: Sniper, Carbine, Handgun, Shotgun
    Armorer: Glock, Colt AR15/M16
    NRA Life Member

  7. #47
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    No, I can't imagine it being that necessary unless you are going to be in extreme conditions.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lawdog-1 View Post
    Guys since this is my thread, I have a question. Is it worth it to drill a hole in my LMT lowers that I bought 2-LMT Lowers after the ban that they don't have the oil holes at the front pin hole/take down pin?
    Its not worth risk Fubaring your lower for somethinf so miniscule.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shihan View Post
    Its not worth risk Fubaring your lower for somethinf so miniscule.
    Well said!

  10. #50
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    What we teach in our armoring courses for installation is rather simple. We use an installation tool. There are several different installation tools available, a few that come to mind are from sources like Colt, Brownells, Bushmaster and BravoCompany.

    1. Install the front pivot pin installation tool from the left side of the lower receiver. Install it so that the hole in the installation tool is in alignment with the hole in the receiver where the spring and detent go.

    2. Insert the spring through the hole in the installation tool so that the spring goes into the spring/detent hole that is machined into the receiver.

    3. Insert the detent through the hole in the installation tool on top of the spring.

    4. Use a small flat pin punch to depress the detent and spring through the hole in the installation tool. Depress the spring and detent just enough so that you can rotate the installation tool approximately 1/4 turn in either direction. The installation tool is now holding the spring loaded detent in place, basically acting like a front pivot pin.

    5. Remove the punch from the hole in the installation tool.

    6. Take your left hand and put it against the left side of the receiver. Open your pointer finger and thumb and move your hand up the left side of the receiver so that you catch the installation tool in the web of your left hand. With the installation tool seated against the web of your left hand, place your pointer finger and thumb of your left hand over the top of the installation tool on the right side of the receiver where you have just installed the detent and spring. I like to pinch my pointer finger and thumb of my left hand together so there is no space for the spring loaded detent to slip by.

    7. With your right hand pick up the front pivot pin. Place the small end of the pivot pin (left side) against the right side of the installation tool. Slowly and carefully use the front pivot pin to push the installation tool out of the front of the upper receiver, and while doing this keep the pressure of your left pointer finger and thumb pressing so that the spring loaded detent doesn't try and slip by. Once you have pushed the installation tool out of the receiver using the front pivot pin, you now have the front pivot pin in place. Rotate the front pivot pin so that the milled groove (detent track) lines up with the detent. You are now done.
    CY6
    Greg Sullivan "Sully"
    SLR15 Rifles

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