M&P w/DCAEK+NP3: slide only or all internals?

[jck397]

I have a new (test fired July 2011) M&P 9c. I installed an Apex Tactical DCAEK kit when I first got it. Before I had a chance to shoot it, I noticed a small rust spot on the of the slide just behind the cocking serrations. I called S&W, and they just told me to scrub it with a brush, put a drop of oil on it, and if it got worse to send it in. Since this is the second M&P I've had minor rust issues with on the slide (in AZ, not even a humid state), I decided screw it, I'll just run it up to Robar and refinish it in NP3 Plus. I am aware that this voids my warranty (as do the Apex parts, technically).

I've had Robar do a SIG 220 and a Glock 22 in regular NP3, and I know they'll refinish everything they can get their hands on, but I'm not sure how much of the gun I should have coated. Originally I thought just the slide, but then I started thinking "While I've got it up there..." and that it made sense to do all the internals, too. But then I started thinking of the workings of the sear/trigger bar, and was wondering if the NP3 would be a little TOO slick and drop my trigger pull weight below the 5-6 lbs. I'm looking for in a carry gun? Also, are the Apex sears anaodized? If so, will that be stripped, or will the NP3 go on dop, changing the dimensions? And what about the extractor? I know there can be tolerance stacking since the extractor was designed for the .40, and I've had thinner cases slip out from under M&P 9 extractors already...should I make it slicker than it already? Am I just overthinking things?

What would you refinish, and what would you leave alone?

Thanks!

[grimm]

[Cleaning up the clutter]
...I know there can be tolerance stacking since the extractor was designed for the .40, and I've had thinner cases slip out from under M&P 9 extractors already...should I make it slicker than it already? Am I just overthinking things?

What would you refinish, and what would you leave alone?

Thanks!

If you are having issues, then by all means send it in. Have the factory fix it. What is there to think about?

[JSantoro]

What is there to think about?

Escellent question! As it turns out, a couple of things...

First....yours was the first response, yet you quoted his ENTIRE post. Being the first response, it's of interest just exactly how you thought he might mistake your post as addressing anybody but him. Weird.

Second, and far more to the point...we might think about addressing the question he asked istead of making up your own unrelated one to answer. The ditty about the rust spot was background info, not the center of gravity of the question.

Metaphorically, it was a sports question that you chose to address with a question about geology.

I don't want to have to lock this, so we'd best see some answers that speak to the thrust of the question, AS ASKED. Less noise, more signal.

[jck397]

If you are having issues, then by all means send it in. Have the factory fix it. What is there to think about?

Sorry if I wasn't clear--they won't take it unless more rust shows up. Instead of waiting until I get more rust and pitting, I'm just taking care of it myself.

[grimm]

I don't want to have to lock this, so we'd best see some answers that speak to the thrust of the question, AS ASKED. Less noise, more signal.

He had some issues with cases slipping the extractor, rusting, and worrying about the slickness of the finish he is thinking about. He already said that he was aware that refinishing might void the warranty. Wouldn't it be prudent to have these issues fixed first and vetting the firearm in question before spending $$$ refinishing that may or may not exacerbate the problem?

[jck397]

He had some issues with cases slipping the extractor, rusting, and worrying about the slickness of the finish he is thinking about. He already said that he was aware that refinishing might void the warranty. Wouldn't it be prudent to have these issues fixed first and vetting the firearm in question before spending $$$ refinishing that may or may not exacerbatethe problem?

To be clear, the cases slipping were on a different M&P, and I'm aware of others having similar extractor issues w/the 9mm M&P's. I haven't seen that issue on this gun--the only problem is the rust on the slide.

Also to clarify, Smith has said that they will not do any work on the gun right now; they will only take it if more rust appears. I want to head off the issue before I get any additional pitting. I am planning on refinishing the slide--my only question is whether I should limit it to just the slide, or other internal parts as well, and if so are there any that I should avoid.

The am I overthinking things question was meant as do I really have to worry about refinishing affecting reliability, or should I just do the whole thing and not worry about it.

Hope that makes things clearer.

[Irish10]

Personally, I'd have it all done. I have 5 pistols done in either NP3 or the newer NP3+ and am quite impressed with it and if you live in a humid environment that alone is a valid reason to do it. The question is whether or not they can put NP3 over melonite but if so I'd do it. Aside from the protection it offers, the two-tone actually looks kind of nice whether it be the black or FDE frame.

[alaskacop]

The NP3 is the best overall finish I have seen for any firearm when it comes to corrosion and wear resistance. I have it on my Para and love it (if I lived in humid climate I would probably have it on all my carry and duty firearms). Next to hard chrome, it is one of the best wear resistant finishes available. Years ago, some idiot gunsmith thought it was a stainless gun and put it in a beadblaster to "polish it up". While most of the finish was stripped, it still kept quite a bit on the slide. Of course, I had to get it refinished in NP3 but the fact it still kept bonded to the slide impressed me.

I would also recommend the internals be done as well, except for the barrel and feed ramp (I had mine done and developed reliablity issues because ramp was now porous and not polished).