In that last pic, it DOES look like its black....?
Any reason you wouldn't want to do this to a mid length DD CHF barrel? Do you mind me asking the cost of the dimpling/re-profiling?
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In that last pic, it DOES look like its black....?
Any reason you wouldn't want to do this to a mid length DD CHF barrel? Do you mind me asking the cost of the dimpling/re-profiling?
The barrel looks black from fouling that has seeped out of the back end of the suppressor.
Marvin's work was very affordable. Here's his contact info so you can get current pricing info from him:
nefariousarms@live.com
Thank you....
The problem, from what I remember in talking with Marvin, is that Ruger's gas system is unique and is neither standard carbine nor intermediate length. The only way to replace the barrel is to go with something that doesn't have a gas port drilled. Daniel Defense does not offer a barrel without a gas port that I know of.
Tokarev,
I just would like to know how you like your SR. I ordered a SR-556fb and would like your opinion on any problems or suggestions you have for a proper diet for it. I don't mind weight much as I shoot a Garand and hunt with a Remington 700 Sendero. I also would like to know how you like your muzzle break.
I think Ruger actually did a good job with the basic design of their gas piston system. The system seems to work well and I've not seen any reports of gas system components failing, etc. The only continuing complaint regarding the gas system parts is the pinned-in transfer rod. Ruger says the rod doesn't need to be removed for routine cleaning but it would still be nice to be able to pop the rod out every once in a while to wipe the crud off or at least give it a looking at. Some early guns did have some rather nasty carrier tilt but I think this has pretty much been eliminated on current rifles by adding a slight radius to the tail end of the bolt carrier. I beleive Ruger has also switched from four subcontracted companies to two for all the carriers and I think this helps with quality control.
This rebarreled rifle seems to run perfectly with everything. It runs on the low gas setting with good quality brass cased ammo but must be switched over to the middle setting (#2) to run on Tula and etc. It'll short stroke and/or fail to lock the bolt back otherwise.
I have another Ruger (SR-556C) that I've got 6,500 rounds through. It has yet to give me any troubles with brass cased ammo but it chokes on steel cased stuff. With that said, I have shot several hundred rounds of Hornady steel cased training ammo and several hundred rounds of Golden Tiger 56gr ammo through the gun without issues. But it absolutely hates Silver Bear and jerks the rim off with almost every shot. Same goes for WOLF 55gr--maybe it was 62gr. I don't remember now.
As far as the FB model goes, I don't think you'll need anything other than a sling and some type of front sling swivel. I like the VTAC LPSM but anything that clamps to the forward railed sections will work. Otherwise, get a decent little scope or red dot optic and some PRVI or PMC ammo and go to town!
Thank you! I plan on getting 500 or so rounds and hopefully burning through 400+ on my first outing or two. Its the only way i am gonna figure out how to shoot that weapon right!
Over the course of the year since I've had the Ruger re-barreled, I've come to believe that the new barrel is easily copper fouled. When the barrel is spanking clean, the rifle shoots pretty well but after fifty or sixty rounds accuracy can drop off significantly. I've seen my groups go from a little over an inch to three or four inches (or more, in some cases) in just a short time. Cleaning the barrel with copper solvents will return the rifle to an accurate state but it is short lived.
I recently contacted Marvin with my observations and he said he's had some similar issues with the Wilson Arms barrel blanks he's been using. He says the Wilson blanks are usually pretty darned good but he's had a couple rough barrels from them as of late. Marvin was very apologetic and said he's happy to re-barrel the Ruger a second time using a chrome moly barrel blank.
Marvin's got the upper again now and I'm confident he'll make it right. I'm looking forward to getting the upper back!
(Relatively unrelated) If I read the first post correctly, you're using a Vltor A5 receiver extension, and in the pictures posted, you've got an M4 stock - does the RE stick out of the back of the stock when "fully collapsed"? This particular configuration has been on my mind a while, but with this issue reoccurring to me. Your rifle is the only one I've seen with both, and I had to ask...![]()
The tube does not stick out the back end of the stock.
I'm using the RE-10/A5SR receiver extension. It is slightly longer than a standard CAR-15 extension but still only has 6 adjustment spots. The six adjustments are the same distance from each other on both tubes but the VLTOR tube is probably .75" longer. Bottom line is that the rifle is about .75" longer than another AR in both the fully open and fully closed positions.
Here's the Ruger with the original carbine buffer tube. Note that the stock is collapsed and nearly butted up against the castle nut.
Here's the Ruger with the VLTOR tube. Note that the stock is in the shortest position and is now farther away from the receiver.
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Last edited by Tokarev; 07-02-12 at 21:32.
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