Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 33

Thread: First time poster with some questions

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Olive Branch, MS
    Posts
    521
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by nimdabew View Post
    If you are using a carry handle, chances are that the small aperture is going to be a slightly different point of impact (POI) compared to the large aperture due to the two being on different planes. At the bottom of the aperture, you will see 0-200M on the large, and 300M on the small. The large aperture is used for closer distances, and the small is used for futher. Beyond 300m, you will use the elevation drum to change the point of aim and point of impact (POA/POI) on your rifle to make hits. But, if you are using a back-up sight like a Troy, Larue, Daniel Defense, these typically do not have an elevation drum, and the two apertures are on the same plane so there is no difference between the two except for the lens effect of the smaller aperture.
    He has a Troy rear sight
    Colt SP6920, LE6920, 6720
    BCM Lower/ARP 6.8SPC upper for hog hunting
    DD M4V5 clone, Troy 5.56 Carbine, S&W M&P10
    PSA Lower/BCM LW 16" middie CHF upper
    PSA Lower/BCM LW 14.5" middie upper
    2 PSA 18"6.8 rifles, PSA 20" M16A4 clone
    Remington 870, Remington 700VTR
    SA XDm9, XDm9C, , XD9SC S&W 1911
    Ruger GP100, Hawkeye77 Compact 6.8SPC
    Kel-Tec KSG, Marlin 336 30-30, HK 45C, VP9
    Sig 1911 Tacops, Scorpion 1911, M11A1, P226 Mk25

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    240
    Feedback Score
    0
    Thanks for all the replies. I think I need to go back to the range this Sunday to finish the 50 yard zero. I ran out of time on Sunday so I got it as close as the pictures and stopped tinkering. I'll see if I can shoot from prone with the smaller ap. Maybe this will make a difference. Now are there any secrets to keeping a consistent sight picture with irons?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,908
    Feedback Score
    8 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by TylerD View Post
    Now are there any secrets to keeping a consistent sight picture with irons?
    Practice.

    Try sticking a target paster on your wall and doing dry fires.

    Edit: I find consistency when I touch my nose to the charging handle.
    Last edited by polymorpheous; 10-10-11 at 21:56.
    Quote Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
    Anybody that owns or sells pistol versions of assault rifles is a bottom feeder, irregardless of the ban status of certain ammunition.

    They are illigetimate weapons that have no real purpose other than to attract retards to the gun community.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    147
    Feedback Score
    0
    You should focus on having the same exact position when zeroing from prone. Or a vice if you have one, but vices make it hard to have a proper hold. After it's zeroed, it's time behind the trigger that will get you the consistancy you want.

    The dry firing drill is really good for this. Start from low ready and practice bringing the weapon up into the same position without worrying about firing at first. Once you have that "feel" of where you're most comfortable/consistant with a sight picture, then hit the range.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SE FL
    Posts
    14,148
    Feedback Score
    5 (100%)
    Pretty much agree with everyone else, but I'll add that what a "50-yard zero" is really attempting to approximate is a rough 200 yard zero that then should be confirmed at that distance. Without re-hashing the old argument I'll just use the colloquial "50-yard zero" terminology.

    What you basically did was stop the process short. The correct full process is:
    1. get on paper ~1.5-2" low at 25 yards
    2. get POI=POA at 50 yards
    3. get hard, true, zero at 200 yards
    4. verify at 50
    5. shoot at various distances to check hold-over/under


    If you stop at step 1, is it good enough? I don't know, good enough for what? If you stop at step 2, is it good enough? I don't know, good enough for what?

    Remember that with angles you're multiplying the adjustment by the same factor as the distance, so a 4" group at 50 yards that *appears* to be centered but is actually 1" left will turn into a 16" group at 200 yards that's going to be really hard to nail down and will have a center 4" to the left, meaning that depending on your target size it will lead to the majority of rounds being "misses".

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    27,214
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by C-grunt View Post
    Smaller aperture is easier to be more accurate with. Use it for your zero.
    Agreed. Holy smokes, the large app sucks. I mean... that thing is worthless. And I'm an Irons only carbine shooter.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    6,323
    Feedback Score
    8 (100%)
    And there are people like me that suck so bad with irons it doesn't really matter. Mark shoots groups, I shoot " center mass". Sad but true. I can hit an 8 inch plate at 300 yards, but the thought of a tight group is ridiculous with my eyes.
    "Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    308
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by TylerD View Post
    I shot from a bench. I supported the rifle with a bag under the rail and tried to keep as level as possible. I used the large aperature on the rear sight as well. Should I have used the smaller one?
    The large (0-200) rear sight is used for two things. Zeroing at 25 meters, and night firing with iron sights. If you're zeroing at 50 meters\yards then use the small rear sight.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    240
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Pretty much agree with everyone else, but I'll add that what a "50-yard zero" is really attempting to approximate is a rough 200 yard zero that then should be confirmed at that distance. Without re-hashing the old argument I'll just use the colloquial "50-yard zero" terminology.

    What you basically did was stop the process short. The correct full process is:
    1. get on paper ~1.5-2" low at 25 yards
    2. get POI=POA at 50 yards
    3. get hard, true, zero at 200 yards
    4. verify at 50
    5. shoot at various distances to check hold-over/under


    If you stop at step 1, is it good enough? I don't know, good enough for what? If you stop at step 2, is it good enough? I don't know, good enough for what?

    Remember that with angles you're multiplying the adjustment by the same factor as the distance, so a 4" group at 50 yards that *appears* to be centered but is actually 1" left will turn into a 16" group at 200 yards that's going to be really hard to nail down and will have a center 4" to the left, meaning that depending on your target size it will lead to the majority of rounds being "misses".

    This explains a lot to me. I would have shot at 50 yards on Sunday to make sure it was dead on but I just ran out of time. I thought posting my experience and where I left off would be a good indicator for those who read to say whether or not I was on the right track or not. So, when I do go back, I will start at 50 yards. I thought that I understood the procedure but this is clear cut and concise so I do appreciate it. The only issue with the above information for me is that my range is only 100 yards indoors, so I will have to try to locate somewhere I can shoot a known 200 yards to be sure.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    9,246
    Feedback Score
    28 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by TylerD View Post
    This explains a lot to me. I would have shot at 50 yards on Sunday to make sure it was dead on but I just ran out of time. I thought posting my experience and where I left off would be a good indicator for those who read to say whether or not I was on the right track or not. So, when I do go back, I will start at 50 yards. I thought that I understood the procedure but this is clear cut and concise so I do appreciate it. The only issue with the above information for me is that my range is only 100 yards indoors, so I will have to try to locate somewhere I can shoot a known 200 yards to be sure.
    Why not just go with a 100 yd zero?
    The 50 & 200 are usable, but the 100 is the most applicable for 99% of AR tasks, you can very effectively hit torsos past 200 yds with it without significant hold-over, and close-range speed/precision is simplified.

    Not trying to start a 50/200 vs 100 argument, just pointing out that if you have an indoor 100 yd range, it is most suited to achieving a 100 yard zero, which is a preferred zero for many that have used several different zeros.
    Jack Leuba
    Director, Military and Government Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •