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Colt SP6920, LE6920, 6720
BCM Lower/ARP 6.8SPC upper for hog hunting
DD M4V5 clone, Troy 5.56 Carbine, S&W M&P10
PSA Lower/BCM LW 16" middie CHF upper
PSA Lower/BCM LW 14.5" middie upper
2 PSA 18"6.8 rifles, PSA 20" M16A4 clone
Remington 870, Remington 700VTR
SA XDm9, XDm9C, , XD9SC S&W 1911
Ruger GP100, Hawkeye77 Compact 6.8SPC
Kel-Tec KSG, Marlin 336 30-30, HK 45C, VP9
Sig 1911 Tacops, Scorpion 1911, M11A1, P226 Mk25
Thanks for all the replies. I think I need to go back to the range this Sunday to finish the 50 yard zero. I ran out of time on Sunday so I got it as close as the pictures and stopped tinkering. I'll see if I can shoot from prone with the smaller ap. Maybe this will make a difference. Now are there any secrets to keeping a consistent sight picture with irons?
You should focus on having the same exact position when zeroing from prone. Or a vice if you have one, but vices make it hard to have a proper hold. After it's zeroed, it's time behind the trigger that will get you the consistancy you want.
The dry firing drill is really good for this. Start from low ready and practice bringing the weapon up into the same position without worrying about firing at first. Once you have that "feel" of where you're most comfortable/consistant with a sight picture, then hit the range.
Pretty much agree with everyone else, but I'll add that what a "50-yard zero" is really attempting to approximate is a rough 200 yard zero that then should be confirmed at that distance. Without re-hashing the old argument I'll just use the colloquial "50-yard zero" terminology.
What you basically did was stop the process short. The correct full process is:
- get on paper ~1.5-2" low at 25 yards
- get POI=POA at 50 yards
- get hard, true, zero at 200 yards
- verify at 50
- shoot at various distances to check hold-over/under
If you stop at step 1, is it good enough? I don't know, good enough for what? If you stop at step 2, is it good enough? I don't know, good enough for what?
Remember that with angles you're multiplying the adjustment by the same factor as the distance, so a 4" group at 50 yards that *appears* to be centered but is actually 1" left will turn into a 16" group at 200 yards that's going to be really hard to nail down and will have a center 4" to the left, meaning that depending on your target size it will lead to the majority of rounds being "misses".
And there are people like me that suck so bad with irons it doesn't really matter. Mark shoots groups, I shoot " center mass". Sad but true. I can hit an 8 inch plate at 300 yards, but the thought of a tight group is ridiculous with my eyes.
"Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"
This explains a lot to me. I would have shot at 50 yards on Sunday to make sure it was dead on but I just ran out of time. I thought posting my experience and where I left off would be a good indicator for those who read to say whether or not I was on the right track or not. So, when I do go back, I will start at 50 yards. I thought that I understood the procedure but this is clear cut and concise so I do appreciate it. The only issue with the above information for me is that my range is only 100 yards indoors, so I will have to try to locate somewhere I can shoot a known 200 yards to be sure.
Why not just go with a 100 yd zero?
The 50 & 200 are usable, but the 100 is the most applicable for 99% of AR tasks, you can very effectively hit torsos past 200 yds with it without significant hold-over, and close-range speed/precision is simplified.
Not trying to start a 50/200 vs 100 argument, just pointing out that if you have an indoor 100 yd range, it is most suited to achieving a 100 yard zero, which is a preferred zero for many that have used several different zeros.
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