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Thread: First time poster with some questions

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Why not just go with a 100 yd zero?
    The 50 & 200 are usable, but the 100 is the most applicable for 99% of AR tasks, you can very effectively hit torsos past 200 yds with it without significant hold-over, and close-range speed/precision is simplified.

    Not trying to start a 50/200 vs 100 argument, just pointing out that if you have an indoor 100 yd range, it is most suited to achieving a 100 yard zero, which is a preferred zero for many that have used several different zeros.
    Honestly, I felt that if I could zero the rifle at fifty yards, then I could work on basic marksmanship skills before trying to move on to 100 yards. I have never zero'd a rifle of any sort before. I can shoot a pistol pretty well but rifles are new to me. I guess it goes to say I'm learning as I go. If I were to mess up and not hit paper or have to make large adjustments, I don't know that I could make those until I get a better grasp on basics. I'd like to take a Vickers course at some point, but I nursing school is killing my pocket.
    Last edited by TylerD; 10-11-11 at 12:28. Reason: Grammar

  2. #22
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    back in the infantry in 1999 this was correct....

    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt_Gold View Post
    The large (0-200) rear sight is used for two things. Zeroing at 25 meters, and night firing with iron sights. If you're zeroing at 50 meters\yards then use the small rear sight.
    But not today - there were a lot of things the military did back in the day that were just plain wrong. The large aperature is used for firing at close range, it is ballistically matched (ish) to the rifle for ranges from 0-200 meters. the smaller apperature is for ranges 300+ as stated earlier in the thread.

    That being said, and to echo what others have said; as long as you understand the slight height differences between the small app and large app on the standard carry handle sight, and apply that knowledge when you zero... no big deal.

    TO THE OP:
    you can also zero your weapon with a 100 yard zero, Rob S (I believe) preffers this method and has posted about it before - I have taken a liking to it and have re zero'd my carbine that way... haven't had any real good chances to push the rifle or myself hard with the new zero yet, so I can't speak to how well it works. Soon.

  3. #23
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    Failure, If i did decide to zero the rifle at 100yds, my next step would be to shoot at what POI at 50 yards. I'm just trying to make sure I hit paper because I would be lost if I weren't hitting paper once I moved to 100yds. I usually shoot by myself so indoors I wouldn't be able to see impacts other than hitting paper.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerD View Post
    Failure, If i did decide to zero the rifle at 100yds, my next step would be to shoot at what POI at 50 yards. I'm just trying to make sure I hit paper because I would be lost if I weren't hitting paper once I moved to 100yds. I usually shoot by myself so indoors I wouldn't be able to see impacts other than hitting paper.
    A zero at 50 yards will hit about 1-2 inches high at 100 yards. Even how you have it right now you should be on paper at 100 yards. I use a 50/200 zero because thats what my department uses for our rifles. Either zero is fine and with you having a 100 yard indoor range I think the 100 yards zero might be better for you.

    The easiest way to get a consistent sight picture, and the one taught in Basic Training, is to touch the tip of your nose to the charging handle. Thats a quick and easy reference for you.
    C co 1/30th Infantry Regiment
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    IraqGunz:
    No dude is going to get shot in the chest at 300 yards and look down and say "What is that, a 3 MOA group?"

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Why not just go with a 100 yd zero?
    The 50 & 200 are usable, but the 100 is the most applicable for 99% of AR tasks, you can very effectively hit torsos past 200 yds with it without significant hold-over, and close-range speed/precision is simplified.

    Not trying to start a 50/200 vs 100 argument, just pointing out that if you have an indoor 100 yd range, it is most suited to achieving a 100 yard zero, which is a preferred zero for many that have used several different zeros.
    I actually agree with this but just ass-u-med that the OP had settled on the 50/200.

  6. #26
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    Well I looked over all of the ballistics charts and it seemed that most people were using this because it works. Honestly this rifle for me will be used for home defense and if I get the chance to shoot 100 yards that... maybe out to 150. I don't have many places that I can shoot this rifle, so it'll probably be at the range or heaven forbid if someone ran down my hallway in the middle of the night and I happened to grab it instead of the pistol on the nightstand.
    Last edited by TylerD; 10-11-11 at 13:30.

  7. #27
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    Ok....... so update and new question. I'm kind of struggling zeroing this thing. Is the bullet impact supposed to be covered by the tip of the sight or slightly above the sight. At 50 yards I aimed at 2 points and got 2 results. The top group is aiming dead center of the diamonds. Bottom group is the lower tip of the large diamond. Again not much time to shoot and the groups still arent impressive. Only my third time seriously trying to shoot a rifle though.[IMG][/IMG]

  8. #28
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    Read your post again to edit my response. You aimed at two different points and hit accordingly. There is no issue here. Not a great group but they make sense- right? Fairly consistent. So Mark addresses your question below.


    You can choose if you like a 6 o'clock hold or a dread on hold. My eyes prefer a 6 o'clock, but most guns are sighted to cover the target you are shooting. So I will often shoot low. I am not the subject matter expert on irons, pretty bad actually so I am sure someone can help more.

    IMHO, Its your choice with your irons. Just know what you chose and practice that way.
    Last edited by Pappabear; 10-17-11 at 16:59.
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerD View Post
    The top group is aiming dead center of the diamonds. Bottom group is the lower tip of the large diamond. Again not much time to shoot and the groups still arent impressive. Only my third time seriously trying to shoot a rifle though.
    That Zero would be TOO HIGH for me. I zero a carbine's irons so that I hit about 1" low at 50. That way I have an effective 100 yard zero.

    I only do this because the sight radius on a carbine is such that I struggle to see the target at 100. A rifle, I just zero at 100.

    If you're wanting a true 50 yard zero, you need to raise your front sight post. Where you put the tip of your post should be where you put a bullet hole.
    Last edited by markm; 10-17-11 at 16:45.
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  10. #30
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    So then what I need to do is turn the sight post to the left until I hit lower correct? And this is my first rifle and I'm shooting with M855. Should the groups be tighter than this at 50 yards with irons? I'm just trying to figure out if my sight manipulation and picture are counteracting one another. Maybe I should add that I had turned my sight post 1/2 turn to the right at 25 yards to hit where it was in the previous pictures. To obtain these results I ended up moving the sight post left 1/2 turn. I did this time use the smaller ap. I did shoot from a bench with the mag touching the table and supported the end of the barrel with my range bag.
    Last edited by TylerD; 10-17-11 at 18:00. Reason: Additional information

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