Cold weather sleeping bag recommendations

[SeriousStudent]

I would definitely agree about the booties and headgear.

You might take a look at Amazon. They had a very good deal on some of the Seirra Designs down booties. I bought a pair for my sister for a Christmas gift, and they were only $17, instead of the normal $45 retail price.

[WillC]

I agree with HOPLOETHOS that the snugpack is lacking, but because of its packable size ... I will have it with me.

However, combined with a bivy sack, my warmies and a ground pad, I have taken this sleeping bag comfortably down to ~0F.
I have gone out of my way to find how to make this system work, because being stuck for days with no sleeping system will change your life.

[Dave L.]

I agree with HOPLOETHOS that the snugpack is lacking, but because of its packable size ... I will have it with me.

Same here. I have an issue Gore-tex bivy sack that seems to help lock some heat in using my Elite 1.

I have been looking at the Nemo and Big Anges 2.5"-3" insulated sleeping mats for below freezing temps.

[Jteck31]

I always go with synthetic nowadays after an unfortunate incident with a wet down bag. I've been using a mountain hardware lamina 0 all winter and it's my new favorite bag for 10+ nights. Packs really small for a synthetic and weight in at 3 lbs 12 oz. regular $185 but you can get it shipped for $97 at alssports.com. Great deal.

[Battle*Hound]

Any experiences with big agnes or marmot?

[Arctic1]

I highly recommend this bag:

http://www.military-sleeping-bags.com/defence6.html

I've used it in -25C under the open sky, with wool underwear, and I was sweating.

A few pointers on winter bivouacing:

1. Get off the ground with a good pad/sleeping mat. If you are staying a tent without a floor/inner tent or an improvised shelter, get some twigs or pine/spruce branches and cover the ground you are sleeping on.

2. Dry your clothes OUTSIDE of the sleeping bag. If you put wet clothes inside the bag, the moisture will start to evaporate and the bag will get clammy, and you get a crappy nights sleep. If you have a heat source, prioritize clothes to dry, ie socks, wool top, moisture wicking layer etc. Do not spend time trying to dry out larger items like jackets or trousers. If you are hiking, you will probably get sweaty the next day anyways.

Have a dry shift of socks and a t-shirt/wool top to use in the bag.

Modern hard shells, although I never use them, have the advantage that they freeze dry. Just let the moisture trapped in the garment freeze, and just remove the ice the next morning.

3. As with layering clothing, the same principles apply with a sleeping bag. It is the heated air that provides heat. All clothes do is mitigate heat loss in some form or another; transports moisture, insulates, protects from wind and rain). If you wear all your clothes in the bag, you will get cold, as the air inside the bag and in between the layers of clothes you have on does not get replaced, and gets cold.

4. When drying footwear, remove the insole to ensure proper circulation of air. A lot of moisture can be trapped inside the boot, underneath the insole. Newspaper pages can be used to wick away the moisture. Do not place your boots close to the heat source. Leather can get dried out, and synthetic boots can melt.

5. Breathe OUTSIDE the bag. If your head gets cold, wear a beanie or something. Your breath can cause the bag to get moist. Also, breathing CO2 all night can cause one hell of a headache.

6. Drink water before going to sleep. Max uptake is about 1,5 dl pr 15 minutes. You need more water in cold weather due to cold diuresis, which often leads to dehydration quicker in winter than in hot weather. You also do not have a profound thirst sensation in cold weather.

7. My personal opinion on hiking gear, is to stay away from Gore Tex stuff, especially foot wear, during winter. I usually go with cotton and wool, for outer shells, underwear and socks. I bring a Pac-Lite style oversuit pants and jacket for wet weather, and a JIB for heat.
Leather boots with overboots, combined with a good pair of wool socks, are great. If Gore-Tex boots get wet, they take forever to dry in the cold.

The reason for choosing cotton is that it can take more abuse than synthetic hard shells, and it doesn't melt if it comes in contact with a heat source or a spark from a fire.

I have been doing it this way in the military for 10 years, never had a cold or frost injury to myself or my soldiers. I do however see civilians go on expeditions and hiking trips, with all the latest Gore-Tex clothes, and they usually end up with some kind of frost injury.

[Jack-O]

...Modern hard shells, although I never use them, have the advantage that they freeze dry. Just let the moisture trapped in the garment freeze, and just remove the ice the next morning.
....
The reason for choosing cotton is that it can take more abuse than synthetic hard shells, and it doesn't melt if it comes in contact with a heat source or a spark from a fire.

I have been doing it this way in the military for 10 years, never had a cold or frost injury to myself or my soldiers. I do however see civilians go on expeditions and hiking trips, with all the latest Gore-Tex clothes, and they usually end up with some kind of frost injury.

Some interesting points. We get this whole "synthetic of best" and "cotton is death" thing so much that we tend to forget the lessons of the past.

personally I have done a great deal of work at altitudes of 8000ft layered with a cotton tshirt, flannel shirt,, polypro long-johns then wool outer layer, and simple costco wool socks and decent boots and been perfectly comfortable all day in spite of sweating. Seems like sweat more with synthetics I've been trying this season, and it's been hard to find that system that works.

I had a synthetic tight shirt on a couple of weeks ago on an outing and I couldnt get warm! even back at the house with the fire blazing and the ambient temp at 78 degrees I was still chilled til I took that shirt off.

My wool outer layer has proven itself in some pretty serious snow storms as the snow doesnt freeze and can be brushed off and you still stay warm.

[ra2bach]

IMO the best way is layering, and make sure before you go to bed you are dry and have some clean clothes on. If you go to bed with sweaty nuts and feet all that moisture will cool down, stink up your bag, and just contributes to a bad sleep.


Yeah keeping clothes in the bag to put on the morning is a good trick.



As far as brands theres quite a few good ones. Ive used REI brand and North Face just fine. I would be an REI member if you are not already and buy it from them. They have excellent service and returns if anything should happen.


Also keep the bag stored draped over a cedar hanger and put some pieces of cedar in the bag, too. Unless you are allergic to it cedar is a natural anti bacterial source and will keep it fresh. Just take them out when you go to use the bag.


If the bag flattens out (compressed fill) a few golf balls in the dryer with the bag on low or no heat will restore the loft.

tennis balls dude... golf balls in a dryer will make you want to leave the house and go play golf. or something...

[Arctic1]

Some interesting points. We get this whole "synthetic of best" and "cotton is death" thing so much that we tend to forget the lessons of the past.

personally I have done a great deal of work at altitudes of 8000ft layered with a cotton tshirt, flannel shirt,, polypro long-johns then wool outer layer, and simple costco wool socks and decent boots and been perfectly comfortable all day in spite of sweating. Seems like sweat more with synthetics I've been trying this season, and it's been hard to find that system that works.

I had a synthetic tight shirt on a couple of weeks ago on an outing and I couldnt get warm! even back at the house with the fire blazing and the ambient temp at 78 degrees I was still chilled til I took that shirt off.

My wool outer layer has proven itself in some pretty serious snow storms as the snow doesnt freeze and can be brushed off and you still stay warm.

The main problem with Gore-Tex lined outer shells is the disonnect between the function of the lining/membrane, and the design features of the jacket.

A Gore-Tex (or any breathable waterproof shell) is a microporous membrane, allowing water to pass from the inside to the outside in order to transport moisture away from the body, while keeping the user dry and protected from outside moisture.

However, for this to work, there has to be a higher pressure on the inside of the garment than outside. For that to happen, all zippers must be closed, all adjustments must be cinched tight, cuffs must be closed etc. A complete a seal as possible. This will most likely make the user extremely warm, especially if hiking with a pack.

To counter that build up of body heat, most people will open the under arm zip's, cuffs, and open the front of the jacket. This cools down the user, but severely impedes the moisture transporting feature of the garment, and vapor from sweat can build up on the inside of the jacket, and you get wet anyway.

A poly-cotton blend will hold more water, but is generally warmer in static or slow moving situations and is more breathable in colder environments than Gore-Tex or other shells.

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For storing and packing sleeping bags, it is important to always stuff the bag in the sack, never roll it. Stuffing it ensures less stress on the filling, as well as a more even distribution on the filling.

[NitroDave08]

the standard military winter arctic sleeping bag. had the pleasure using it in korea waiting for the y 2 k. I don't know how cold it was but it was cold enough to freeze a water buffalo. and when you are at the military surplus store buy you a pair or 6 of the winner arctic sox. our tent heater would run out of fuel about 2 am still nice and toasty inside the sleeping bag. and when not in use for storage , would vacuum pack it and it would be a nice little package