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Thread: How to tell if your carrier key is properly staked.

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
    Has anyone ever worn out a gas key and wanted to replace it? I have so far never wanted to remove one.
    No, but I am sure some have. The most common reason for changing one out is because a primer got lodged in there or it was snapped off.



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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
    Has anyone ever worn out a gas key and wanted to replace it? I have so far never wanted to remove one.
    They can be ruined if they hit a hard surface at the wrong angle. Don't drop onto concrete or a similar surface.
    My brother saw Deliverance and bought a Bow. I saw Deliverance and bought an AR-15.

  3. #33
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    I had to take mine off when the front bolt broke. But it had to go to the Machinist to remove the broken bolt shaft anyway...
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  4. #34
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    One thing is for sure - if you do want to remove it, you can find a Torx driver. It is hard to make the case that the screw should be Hex just because they are more common.

  5. #35
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    Exactly. I am still trying to figure out how the stars and moon align themselves just right for those primers to get in there.

    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    No, but I am sure some have. The most common reason for changing one out is because a primer got lodged in there or it was snapped off.



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  6. #36
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    considering the low cost, a new key when the rifle gets a second bolt and its third barrel is just preventive maintenance, as far as I'm concerned.

    And yes, I've seen keys with torqued-down screws but insufficient staking, come loose just from shooting.

  7. #37
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    I also had a rifle stop shooting, and it was a loose key - so whatever it had was insufficient.

  8. #38
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    FWIW I use the same TorX screw as Grant does and have done so for the past 5-6yrs. I've never had one break or come lose in that time, and I'm talking thousands of keys I've staked and installed. I lap the bottom of carrier keys on a whetstone before installation (ensures that the key is perfectly flat) and I use Rocksett on the bottom of the key and on the carrier key screws after degreasing and torque to 55in lbs and stake with the excellent MOACKS tool from Ned Christiansen. I've yet to see or read of a Milspec about a removal torque requirement, one may exist but I haven't seen it. If I never thought a carrier key might need to be removed due to damage or clogged by a primer I'd just TIG weld the bitch on, but we live in an imperfect world where shit actually happens so I don't do that. YMMV
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
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  9. #39
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    I think the maximum torque spec is to facilitate field removal of a hex head screw without recourse to a milling machine or plasma cutter. In my experience a hex socket head screw can not take much torque before it rounds out. A Torx screw can take a lot more making an "overstaked" screw still removable. BTW, I came across some Torx head wood screws today. Shot about 40 of them, 4 inch long number 10s. None stripped. This is in sharp contrast to some Scrulox (square recess) screws I have been using which striped the recess unless I was quite careful. My vote is for Torx for all socket head applications, replacing square and hex. They are superior to hex and square recess screws. I think it would take a bit of experimentation to learn to stake a screw just so, so it falls in the window of above the minimum and below the maximum torque. If I ever get into carrier key staking I very much doubt I would do such experimentation. I would stake the bitch enough then give some more for good measure. That knowing that if I ever strip the recess out trying to remove the screw I have other methods available, not the least of which is a big 'ole 7 inch angle grinder turning a Norzon Plus wheel, a metal eating beast.
    Last edited by Suwannee Tim; 10-27-11 at 21:22.

  10. #40
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    I think all factories should stake to that specification.

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