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Thread: Free float rail systems that are easily removed for maintenance?

  1. #41
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    Scotty, just when I start thinking you know what you're talking about you say something like this. The barrels on most ARs are parkerized, the BCG is parkerized, the springs are chrome silicon, the entirety of the FCG is parkerized or given some coating, and the receivers are aluminum. Please explain to me how any of those components are going to rust from simply hitting them with a bit of water as long as you dry them out (Compressed air works well for the nooks and crannies) and then oil and lube the individual parts. If you are properly oiling and lubing your rifle then there should be no problems as the parkerizing used will trap the oil within it creating a barrier between the water and the steel thus inhibiting the formation of rust.

    Additionally, it is actually wiser to remove the mud and other sediment as soon as possible, as the acids and other minerals in the sediment are more likely to cause rust than the water. Additionally, I can name a circumstance where it is necessary to use water, and that is when your weapon has been submerged in saltwater. The only truly effective way that I know of to remove the salt and possibly sediment from the rifle is to hit it with freshwater. After the salt has been removed, you then dry off the rifle and properly oil it.

    As for the OPs question, there are several different rails that you can take apart relatively easily, including the KAC RAS series, the KAC RIS series, the Centurion Rails, the Daniel Defense Omega X Rails, the Daniel Defense RIS II Rails, and I think you can take the lower rail off the URX II/III series (don't quote me on that, I don't own any rifles with that rail system).
    "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats." - H. L. Mencken

  2. #42
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    Someone here mentioned using NON-chlorinated brake cleaner. IMO that's a mistake. Use the regular old non-hippified chlorinated version. Reason being two-fold: First, the non-chlorinated version flash-rusts my brake rotors, chlorinated version does not. Second, non-chlorinated burns my skin pretty bad, chlorinated not so much.

    Regular old rubbing alcohol works real well as a water displacer too.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0reo View Post
    Someone here mentioned using NON-chlorinated brake cleaner. IMO that's a mistake. Use the regular old non-hippified chlorinated version. Reason being two-fold: First, the non-chlorinated version flash-rusts my brake rotors, chlorinated version does not. Second, non-chlorinated burns my skin pretty bad, chlorinated not so much.

    Regular old rubbing alcohol works real well as a water displacer too.

    Agreed.
    "Not every thing on Earth requires an aftermarket upgrade." demigod/markm

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by BH321 View Post
    Scotty, just when I start thinking you know what you're talking about you say something like this. The barrels on most ARs are parkerized, the BCG is parkerized, the springs are chrome silicon, the entirety of the FCG is parkerized or given some coating, and the receivers are aluminum. Please explain to me how any of those components are going to rust from simply hitting them with a bit of water as long as you dry them out (Compressed air works well for the nooks and crannies) and then oil and lube the individual parts. If you are properly oiling and lubing your rifle then there should be no problems as the parkerizing used will trap the oil within it creating a barrier between the water and the steel thus inhibiting the formation of rust.

    Additionally, it is actually wiser to remove the mud and other sediment as soon as possible, as the acids and other minerals in the sediment are more likely to cause rust than the water. Additionally, I can name a circumstance where it is necessary to use water, and that is when your weapon has been submerged in saltwater. The only truly effective way that I know of to remove the salt and possibly sediment from the rifle is to hit it with freshwater. After the salt has been removed, you then dry off the rifle and properly oil it.

    As for the OPs question, there are several different rails that you can take apart relatively easily, including the KAC RAS series, the KAC RIS series, the Centurion Rails, the Daniel Defense Omega X Rails, the Daniel Defense RIS II Rails, and I think you can take the lower rail off the URX II/III series (don't quote me on that, I don't own any rifles with that rail system).

    Parkerizing and oil is not a real barrier for rust.
    "Not every thing on Earth requires an aftermarket upgrade." demigod/markm

  5. #45
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    So what's wrong with using water to help initially clean?

  6. #46
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    I washed my ar in the bathtub once and for the most part it didnt do anything. except I didnt lube the rifles nooks an crannies enough after and I did get some rusty screws on my rail. Also the gasblock screws rusted a little but that was my fault for not throwing lube on them after. the rest of the rifle was fine. In other words.. water is fine if you do it right unlike me.
    Last edited by xjustintimex; 11-09-11 at 09:47.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoutfsu99 View Post
    So what's wrong with using water to help initially clean?


    Unless you are out in the field, with no other options, why do you feel the need to use water?

    I can use various cans/bottles of solvent and an air compressor first.

    I have a whole tank of solvent at home to submerge entire guns just for this scenario where they become covered in mud, snow, rain.
    "Not every thing on Earth requires an aftermarket upgrade." demigod/markm

  8. #48
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    There is a tread on here somewhere that goes into detail about cleaning your AR with water. It has me now cleaning mine with water.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
    Unless you are out in the field, with no other options, why do you feel the need to use water?

    I can use various cans/bottles of solvent and an air compressor first.

    I have a whole tank of solvent at home to submerge entire guns just for this scenario where they become covered in mud, snow, rain.
    Most people don't have solvent tanks sitting in their homes.

    I've used water twice on my ARs. I don't do it more b/c I have more time to clean my weapons here (but I wouldn't hesitate to use it if I felt like it). I don't have to jump through 5 different hoops just to sign my weapon out of the arms room. Cleaning it with water is an expeditious way to maximize your time. I don't think I would spray my weapon if I was in the field. I'd wipe away the gunk and lube back up.

    I use water all the time on my issued weapon due to those reasons. You're catching flak/questions because of your rigid denial of being able to use water. I still don't get why you think it's so harmful.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoutfsu99 View Post
    Most people don't have solvent tanks sitting in their homes.

    I've used water twice on my ARs. I don't do it more b/c I have more time to clean my weapons here (but I wouldn't hesitate to use it if I felt like it). I don't have to jump through 5 different hoops just to sign my weapon out of the arms room. Cleaning it with water is an expeditious way to maximize your time. I don't think I would spray my weapon if I was in the field. I'd wipe away the gunk and lube back up.

    I use water all the time on my issued weapon due to those reasons. You're catching flak/questions because of your rigid denial of being able to use water. I still don't get why you think it's so harmful.

    Because it causes rust. Why is that so hard for you to understand?

    Water + Air + Steel = Rust

    I don't care how dry to think you can get it after using water. You can't get the water out of every corner and crack.

    Using an air compressor after using water will flash rust parts as it introduces more air into the equation.
    Last edited by scottryan; 11-09-11 at 11:29.
    "Not every thing on Earth requires an aftermarket upgrade." demigod/markm

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