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Thread: Repairing a poorly perm-attached flash hider

  1. #1
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    Repairing a poorly perm-attached flash hider

    I recently purchased a new 14.5" CMMG upper, and an extender flash hider to have permanently attached for a legal 16.1".

    My decision to do this, was wanting the shortest and most correct package I could get without a tax stamp. I will never be removing the FSB from this rifle, or installing FF handguards. I will not be changing the flash hider out, or attaching a suppressor. It seemed to me like there was no drawback.

    So I took it to a local smith who specializes in AR15s to have the hider pinned/welded. And because the rest of my ARs use peel washers instead of crush washers, I requested that a peel washer be used.

    Here's where it gets ugly.

    Instead of using the peel washer like it was intended, the smith fished around in his drawer until he found 2 peel washers of different widths, that clocked the flash hider correctly when stacked on top of each other.

    He put the two washers in (the two washers don't even line up very well with each other), then drilled and pinned the flash hider on.

    So the gun is completely functional and completely legal. But it looks like complete shit.

    Yeah, I am that guy. The one who cares about how his gun looks. I'm not a badass operator in the middle east with duct tape holding my accessories on, I'm a hobbyist who enjoys putting together well made machines and shooting them. I don't mind scrapes or scratches. I do mind having my brand new upper look like a hack-job.

    So my question is, now that this has been permanently pinned, is there any rectifying it? even if the pin were successfully drilled out, the hole will be in the wrong spot, once one of the peel washers is removed.

    I really like the upper otherwise. It would seem absolutely foolish to sell it for what I've got into it, and start again as some have suggested to me.

  2. #2
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    The first idea that comes to my mind is to drill out carefully the pin and remove the flash hider. Then measure the combined thickness of the two washers and make a well fitted single washer of the same thickness. Then reinstall the flashider using the new single washer and reinstall a new pin. If necessary, a slightly larger diameter drill can be used to open the hole and realign them together and use a larger pin.
    Personally, I don't usually use a pin. I usually use a small screw like a scope mounting screw, and turn it firmly into the bottom of the hole, then cut it off flush and finish. This way it won't vibrate out. This would also allow you to use the same hole, provided it's pretty close, just by tapping it.
    Also, a TIG welder can be used to fuse the end of the pin and then the weld dressed.
    NRA Life, SASS#40701, Glock Advanced Armorer
    Gunsmith for Unique Armament Creations LLC, 07/SOT

    VIGILIA PRETIUM LIBERTATIS

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by sully0812 View Post
    I recently purchased a new 14.5" CMMG upper, and an extender flash hider to have permanently attached for a legal 16.1".

    My decision to do this, was wanting the shortest and most correct package I could get without a tax stamp. I will never be removing the FSB from this rifle, or installing FF handguards. I will not be changing the flash hider out, or attaching a suppressor. It seemed to me like there was no drawback.

    So I took it to a local smith who specializes in AR15s to have the hider pinned/welded. And because the rest of my ARs use peel washers instead of crush washers, I requested that a peel washer be used.

    Here's where it gets ugly.

    Instead of using the peel washer like it was intended, the smith fished around in his drawer until he found 2 peel washers of different widths, that clocked the flash hider correctly when stacked on top of each other.

    He put the two washers in (the two washers don't even line up very well with each other), then drilled and pinned the flash hider on.

    So the gun is completely functional and completely legal. But it looks like complete shit.

    Yeah, I am that guy. The one who cares about how his gun looks. I'm not a badass operator in the middle east with duct tape holding my accessories on, I'm a hobbyist who enjoys putting together well made machines and shooting them. I don't mind scrapes or scratches. I do mind having my brand new upper look like a hack-job.

    So my question is, now that this has been permanently pinned, is there any rectifying it? even if the pin were successfully drilled out, the hole will be in the wrong spot, once one of the peel washers is removed.

    I really like the upper otherwise. It would seem absolutely foolish to sell it for what I've got into it, and start again as some have suggested to me.

    Could you have the barrel cut down/re-crowned and threaded? No experience here with that, but my Dad had a 6mm Remington with rust pitting (previous owner neglected it) in the last 2-4" of the barrel. Smith took off the worst of it and re-crowned. I don't know how that would work with the threads though, they could be re-threaded I suppose?

    Anywho, just throwing it out there.

    ETA: I like the above poster's idea more, just trying to be helpful.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    Could you have the barrel cut down/re-crowned and threaded? No experience here with that, but my Dad had a 6mm Remington with rust pitting (previous owner neglected it) in the last 2-4" of the barrel. Smith took off the worst of it and re-crowned. I don't know how that would work with the threads though, they could be re-threaded I suppose?

    Anywho, just throwing it out there.

    ETA: I like the above poster's idea more, just trying to be helpful.
    Unfortunately that would leave me below a 16" overall length. Not necessarily a bad thing by itself, but I already have an SBR. The purpose of this build was to be non-sbr, and relatively M4 correct.

  5. #5
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    Without seeing it & why it looks so offensive, I'll go out on a limb here & presume that the worst part is that the washers are off center. If that is the case, you or someone handy with tools, could dress down the washer(s) with the correct hand files to make the mismatch less noticeable. Clamped in a proper vise/block/fixture with multiple layers of masking tape to protect the parts you don't want touched by the file. Go slow & touch-up with flat black Krylon when completed. After firing a good number of rounds, the soot will just blend together with the touched-up area. Just one possible, cost effective way to resolve the situation without creating other issues. A Dremel tool or die grinder is faster if you've used them a lot & are confident with doing so - then simply finish by hand. However, one slip & you'll wish you had used hand files. If still unsatisfied, you could then try other more serious remedies. Good luck.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by sully0812 View Post
    I recently purchased a new 14.5" CMMG upper, and an extender flash hider to have permanently attached for a legal 16.1".

    My decision to do this, was wanting the shortest and most correct package I could get without a tax stamp. I will never be removing the FSB from this rifle, or installing FF handguards. I will not be changing the flash hider out, or attaching a suppressor. It seemed to me like there was no drawback.

    So I took it to a local smith who specializes in AR15s to have the hider pinned/welded. And because the rest of my ARs use peel washers instead of crush washers, I requested that a peel washer be used.

    Here's where it gets ugly.

    Instead of using the peel washer like it was intended, the smith fished around in his drawer until he found 2 peel washers of different widths, that clocked the flash hider correctly when stacked on top of each other.

    He put the two washers in (the two washers don't even line up very well with each other), then drilled and pinned the flash hider on.

    So the gun is completely functional and completely legal. But it looks like complete shit.

    Yeah, I am that guy. The one who cares about how his gun looks. I'm not a badass operator in the middle east with duct tape holding my accessories on, I'm a hobbyist who enjoys putting together well made machines and shooting them. I don't mind scrapes or scratches. I do mind having my brand new upper look like a hack-job.

    So my question is, now that this has been permanently pinned, is there any rectifying it? even if the pin were successfully drilled out, the hole will be in the wrong spot, once one of the peel washers is removed.

    I really like the upper otherwise. It would seem absolutely foolish to sell it for what I've got into it, and start again as some have suggested to me.


    This is the exact reason why it is cheaper to SBR your gun in the long run.
    "Not every thing on Earth requires an aftermarket upgrade." demigod/markm

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
    This is the exact reason why it is cheaper to SBR your gun in the long run.

    Unless you have the tools, machines and skills to do it yourself.
    Owner - BRD Engineering

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
    This is the exact reason why it is cheaper to SBR your gun in the long run.
    Scottryan and I are in agreement that perm jobs are not acceptable. Send it to Randall at AR15barrels.com for a more professional job if you must go that route.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  10. #10
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    14.5 hack job

    I agree to sending it to a tried and true AR-gunsmith! "BUT" the cutting and rethreading can be done if you just put on a DIFFREANT flashider, somthing a little longer. Saber Defence.com makes an A2 flash hider a little longer than stock. I'm trying to find sombody who can make me a FAUX CAR 5.5in flash hider Like the ones that make a 11.5in barrel 16in EXCEPT you put it on a 16in barrel and 4.5 in cover your barrel giving it the LOOK of the 11.5 barrel rifle?

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