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Thread: S&W M&P T (new & improved)

  1. #21
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    Robb (and anyone else): Can the dissimilar metals problem cause gas leaks other than causing the gas block to slip? Robb dimpled the barrel and red loc tited the set screws. Can the different expansion rates cause leakage as the rifle heats up?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLR_Redux View Post
    Robb (and anyone else): Can the dissimilar metals problem cause gas leaks other than causing the gas block to slip? Robb dimpled the barrel and red loc tited the set screws. Can the different expansion rates cause leakage as the rifle heats up?
    It can if using an aluminum gas block and a obviously steel or stainless barrel. Usually you'll only see this when running the rifle really hard or on full auto. I too prefer steel or stainless gas blocks for this reason (especially on CAR length systems). This is also why I prefer pinned gas blocks whenever possible and why I always recommend 'shaving' a FSB into a lo-pro gas block to fit under long rails (9-12" rails w/CAR or midlength gas systems) instead of just a dimpled lo-pro non-OEM gas block. But if you do decide to go with a lo-pro gas block I recommend sending it to ADCO, AR15barrels.com or John Noveske for taper pinning.
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by czydj View Post
    It seems whenever I ask this question, all I ever hear are crickets chiriping... How do I get rid of those pesky critters and how do I get an official position on this issue from our friends at S&W?

    IMHO, this is a pretty important issue. PMAGS are prevalent, no doubt about it. What happens if you get into a situation where your partner tosses you a magazine when you run out and it's a PMAG? Do you ask him for a dremel too, so you can file down the PMAG to get back in the game? Just a note, this isn't really even to address my M&P, I've taken care of it myself. What about the folks who don't know and won't find out until it's too late?
    If this were an issue for me, as I do not personally own a S&W carbine it's not, but if I did, I would go directly to the source and call or write to S&W's customer service department... I am not sure I would rely solely on postings on the disinformation net...

    Just my .02

    Buck
    MossieTactics.com ~ KMA 367

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buck View Post
    If this were an issue for me, as I do not personally own a S&W carbine it's not, but if I did, I would go directly to the source and call or write to S&W's customer service department... I am not sure I would rely solely on postings on the disinformation net...

    Just my .02

    Buck

    Not relying on the erronet, Mr. Buck. I was just hoping Mr. Manager had given you additional info beyond "the newest production works fine" quote...

    Quote Originally Posted by Buck View Post
    The S&W tactical rifle production manager flew out from Springfield with an armorer and several new complete uppers… I had an opportunity to ask him several direct questions about the problem and he was very forth coming…

  5. #25
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    Regarding pinned versus bolted gas block:

    I think the whole set screw concept is a bad idea. The problem is that tightening the set screw draws the block away from the barrel on the set screw side, possibly creating a small gap. So you end up with uneven contact.

    However, the cross-bolt clamp style gas blocks made by GG&G, YHM, VLTOR, and DD should be fine. Military Morons did a test of the VLTOR clamp-on folding front sight gas block. They clamped the upper in vice blocks and torqued the front sight to see when it would slip. They ended up slipping the barrel in the upper and ruined the timing pin in the barrel before the gas block slipped.

    I like the fact that a clamp on gas block sight can be adjusted to get the rear sight centered as well.

    This applies to civilian and LEO semi-auto carbines, though. For hard full auto use in combat, I think a regular pinned FSB should be mandatory for the most part.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by KintlaLake View Post
    What's S&W's response to these suggestions? Care to speculate why it's sticking with the 1:9?

    S&W's position is that most PD use 55gr ammo and that that the 1/9 twist is favored.

    They have 14.5" barrels with 1/7 twist and am trying to get some.


    C4

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    They have 14.5" barrels with 1/7 twist and am trying to get some.
    (perk)

    FNG question: Would one of those 1:7 barrels, with a permanently attached FH bringing it to 16", be a non-NFA retrofit for my 1:9 M&P 15?
    KintlaLake
    KintlaLake Blog

    "Blasphemy is an epithet bestowed by superstition upon common sense." (Robert Green Ingersoll)

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by KintlaLake View Post
    (perk)

    FNG question: Would one of those 1:7 barrels, with a permanently attached FH bringing it to 16", be a non-NFA retrofit for my 1:9 M&P 15?
    Yes.

    C4

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    S&W's position is that most PD use 55gr ammo and that that the 1/9 twist is favored.
    They're probably right.

    Truthfully speaking the vast majority of us would be served just fine by 1:9, and if the total number of rounds fired of a given length were the criteria we would probably all be BETTER served with 1:9.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Left Sig View Post
    Gander Mountain firearms prices are outlandish. The used stuff is more expensive then new stuff elsewhere. Many buyers there probably never set foot in a regular gun shop so they probably don't now any better. I used to shop at the original Galyan's store and their prices weren't the best. Once they stopped selling handguns I went to the gun shop less than a block away and found much better prices.

    But Cabelas is supposedly coming to town so maybe that will strike up some competition...
    Cabela's pricing is not what I would consider competitive, generally very close tp msrp

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