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Thread: Front take down pin stuck

  1. #11
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    OP, what do you use for lube? a generous layer of a lube that stays(motor oil for example) allows most of the gunk to be wiped off. I just wipe, and hose out with gun scrubber and its clean except for a couple areas(bolt tail, ledge inside of carrier and barrel extension). I have no clue about your problem other than the detent may have been stuck.

  2. #12
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    I use Weapon Shield. I think it's a great lube, and I noticed I spend less time cleaning since switching to that.
    But yeah, things like corners, etc, will always have crud in it that's harder to get out. And that's where I obsess over.

    But hey, I never said I clean my guns so it's white glove clean because it's necessary. It's OCD for sure. I just can't stand the site or feel of a gun that's dirty when I'm home handling them.

  3. #13
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    I had the same issue on a recent build. I was able to do what you did to get it working but after a little bit it would stick again. Once I completely removed the spring and detent and reinserted them everything has been perfect. It could be a piece of grit or a burr or to sharp of a point on the detent.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw621 View Post
    I had the same issue on a recent build. I was able to do what you did to get it working but after a little bit it would stick again. Once I completely removed the spring and detent and reinserted them everything has been perfect. It could be a piece of grit or a burr or to sharp of a point on the detent.
    That's almost exactly what happened to me a few years back when putting parts in a stripped lower.

    I had messed up putting in the spring and detent. (Can't remember if I bent the spring or let some grit, etc., get into the hole and that bent the spring.)

    Anyway, I took everything back out, cleaned the hole and used a different spring. Worked good thereafter.

    This was my screwup initially.
    Last edited by RDak; 12-03-11 at 06:41.

  5. #15
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    military weapons are designed with lack of cleaning and maintenance in mind. virtually every SUCCESSFUL small arm designed for the military has succeeded because of that factor alone. when the cleaning issues were overcome, the M16 became a stalwart in the field of small arms.

    a good example of a failure, though, was the Chechault (sp?) MG of WW1...way too easily jammed due to the magazine design with the mud and conditions of the WW1 trenches to operate.

    when you have two dissimilar metals in a surface-to-surface contact situation, it's much better to maintain a clean/properly lubed surface to minimize any reaction; such as galling.

    clean, de-burr and lightly lube... the pins should operate OK.
    it is better to remain silent and be thought as being a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt...

  6. #16
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    Sometimes when I have come across pivot pins being a PITA, I put the rear pin half way or all the way back in, and it makes it a bunch easier to pull the front pin out. Leverage can play a lot in that front pin being stuck IMO. You should never have to beat the pin out IMO, as that just shows something is seized up bad. You can actually end up with a wider ID after time due to either compressing the metal, or shaving it out by doing so.


    And for lube, for me it's Tetra Grease.

    I just wipe and clean my BCG every few hundred rounds. Never had an issue doing so.

  7. #17
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    I'm wondering what the front and back pivot pins's expexted lifetime is. Anybody had a pin wear out?

  8. #18
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    Never had a pivot or take down pin wear out on any of my rifles, or rifles I have maintained. They're not exactly a high-use part... At least, not if you aren't way over-cleaning.

    I'll agree that you're taking cleaning to an extreme that could potentially cause damage. Clean your bore (primarily the chamber), wipe down the internals, and apply generous lubrication. That's all you need to do.

    If you feel like you could clean for 10 hours, something is wrong. When I get bored and do a "white glove" cleaning it still only takes about half an hour. A normal cleaning is a 10-15 minute job. I'd try a different lubricant... Ballistol is my personal favorite, I find it cleans and lubricates exceptionally well.

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