You can have it bead blasted with the fine powder (similar to baking soda). I did that to my rifle prior to having it ceramic coated. It did not etch the surfaces at all.
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You can have it bead blasted with the fine powder (similar to baking soda). I did that to my rifle prior to having it ceramic coated. It did not etch the surfaces at all.
I contacted southwest metal finishing and the gentleman there told me that they can strip but they don't have the ability to blast after the stripping and advised me to get everything that I need stripped to be sent down, then blast everything together, then send it back for anodizing.
My next question would be what alloy are receiver extensions made out of? Do they differ from manufacturer to manufacturer or is there a 'standard' (I know, unlikely)...
I believe the mil-spec extensions are 7075 and 6061 for most of the commercials
Last edited by MistWolf; 12-14-11 at 14:35.
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Yup, 7075. Why do you want to get it blasted? Are looking to have a rough exterior finish? If all you want is to get the original anodizing off, their stripping process should be GTG.
Anodizing can't be done in white, but it can get close (it'll be a white silver). Not sure if that color can be done in type 3 though.
What about just taking a rattle can to it?
By in the white, he means unanodized. He wants them done in maroon which from what I know, is only possible with type II. I dont know for sure but maroon being somewhat dark, it may be possible with type II hard coat like that on DD's DE rails.
Send them to KG and have them coated whatever color you want.
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The gentleman I spoke with said he recommended it because not all the parts would have been prepped the same before anodizing (which isn't a big deal when you're doing black apparently), but to get the most uniform finish, he recommended re-blasting everything at the same time...
Yes, I believe you are correct.
From their website...
Hard Anodize
(MIL-A-8625 Type III)
Class 1 (Clear/Natural)
Class 2 (Dyed)
Sulfuric Anodize
(MIL-A-8625 Type II)
Class 1 (Clear/Natural)
Class 2 (Dyed)
Its just not the same![]()
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Last edited by hunt_ak; 12-14-11 at 20:52.
I guess what I'm running into now is 6061 vs 7075 and a uniform finish. The handguard I was getting in the white is 6061 (like everyone elses). The only handguard that I've found that incorporates 7075 is Lancers carbon fiber handguard which includes a 7075 cap (you can see the green anodized receiver set along with the handguard cap)
Does anyone know if a manufacturer produced a 7075 handguard or what I can expect in differences with the anodizing between the alloys?
Last edited by hunt_ak; 12-14-11 at 20:56.
Oh ok, makes sense now. In that case, I would do the bead blasting type blake-b recommended. That way you retain the smoothness needed on your RE, particularly on the inside.
On color consistency, did the guy you spoke with say anything about different alloy types coming out differently after dying? I was under the impression that as long as they are done in the same batch, they would come out the same.
Last edited by Col_Crocs; 12-14-11 at 23:26.
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