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Thread: New AR15 - How to zero BUIS and Aimpoint T1

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    New AR15 - How to zero BUIS and Aimpoint T1

    Greetings,

    New to the AR world and have a colt 6940. Also have a Aimpoint Micro T1 installed. Can someone point me to the zeroing process/procedure. I plan to cowitness my aimpoint..questions are Do I first zero my BUIS (sounds like a logical first step) and than zero in the aimpoint?

    any pointers/guidance greatly appreciated

  2. #2
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    Zero the Iron Sights.
    Zero your Aimpoint.

    Be happy

    Shoot Things


    Cowitness is being able to use your irons through your aimpoint. It has nothing to do with zeroing the optic.
    "Be wary of strong drink. It can make you shoot at tax collectors... and miss."
    Robert A. Heinlein Time Enough For Love

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    do folks also just keep the back sight folded down and show with just the optic?

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    If I were you, I'd go to panteaoproductions.com and sign up for 1 month and watch all of the online training videos. Both Paul Howe and Travis Haley go into detail about zeroing the rifle.

    Do you know how aperture sights work and how to use them?

    If so, and your capable of keeping some manner of actual group at 100 yards, hopefully around 4":
    I'd zero the iron sights first(a front sight tool will make things much easier but isn't required,) using the small aperture(and remembering to keep your focus on the front sight) to where your point of aim and point of impact are the same at either 50 or 100 yards. Ideally you should confirm the windage/fine tune the 50 yard zero at 200, but I wouldn't worry about that just yet.

    You can complete that step with the Aimpoint mounted and pretending it's not there when you use the irons, but if it wasn't I'd mount it properly now. With some rifles, when you attain a sight picture the dot of a properly zeroed red dot will sit on top of your front sight post. You can use this knowledge to get you close, but remember that it's not a 100% solution.

    Remember to maintain all the fundamentals you used with the iron sights(cheek weld, grip, stance/position, and trigger control,) and zero the optic at the same distance that you used for the iron sights.

    Five shot groups are a general rule for each string between checking the target, and most people prefer the prone position if they can get into it. If not, make sure that when you build your position on the bench, that you keep the same cheek weld/relationship to the sights that you will in other positions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Colt1910 View Post
    do folks also just keep the back sight folded down and show with just the optic?
    Some do, some don't. At this point it's irrelevant to you. If it helps you shoot better with it folded down, then for the purpose of zeroing your optic, go ahead and fold it down. Some schools of thought are that it should always be up so that if your optic goes down you have an immediately available solution...but you aren't there yet. DO remember to use blue lock tight on it's mounting screw if you haven't already(same goes for mounting the Aimpoint.)
    Last edited by thopkins22; 12-18-11 at 16:55.

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    I will definitely check out
    Last edited by Colt1910; 12-18-11 at 16:54.

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    Here are some links to some very useful zeroing targets that I found on here earlier.

    25 Yard Zero

    50 Yard Zero

    Both are made for zeroing Aimpoints to the 50/200 Improved Battlesight Zero. The 50 yard package also includes targets for the 2-MOA dot Aimpoint variants, though the T-1 is a 4-MOA sight. (You can still ring a 12x12" steel at 200 yards with one though.) I personally use the 25 yard version, since it's easier to see clearly, at the expense of perhaps a slightly less precise zero. They'll work for your irons too.

    I'll reiterate...be sure to use blue loctite (or Permatex thread locker...same thing) on the optics and the irons. Nothing more frustrating than not being able to hold a group, then realizing your optic is jiggling back and forth on the rail. (I've been there.)

    I've also found that point of impact tends to change slightly with ammo type and brand. If I'm going to be shooting a large amount of a certain type, for a class or something, I'll re-zero, with the optic taking precedence if pressed for time. The T-1 is pretty much bombproof, absent taking a round to it.

    Enjoy!
    Last edited by BaronFitz; 12-18-11 at 17:23.
    I have far more guns than I realistically need, but far less than I want. - NongShim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim McBride View Post
    Zero the Iron Sights.
    Zero your Aimpoint.

    Be happy

    Shoot Things


    Cowitness is being able to use your irons through your aimpoint. It has nothing to do with zeroing the optic.
    I never really likes this method, but the Army loves it.

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    I'd also recommend zeroing your iron sights with the T-1 attached. Depending on which T-1 mount you have part of the rear sight aperture might be blocked by the bottom of the T-1; this could cause you to align the iron sights slightly differently than you would with the T-1 removed. Also, zero the iron sights with the small aperture.

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    Sgt, how do you zero? I'm asking out of curiostiy only.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt_Gold View Post
    I never really likes this method, but the Army loves it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronFitz View Post
    Here are some links to some very useful zeroing targets that I found on here earlier.

    25 Yard Zero

    50 Yard Zero

    Enjoy!
    Thanks for posting these targets man, I was using a ruler and this will make it much easier.

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