zeroing problem

[maze]

Well I finally received my ML2 from Aimpoint. Love the product, or so I thought. I took it to the range today to zero it in and had problems. I skimped on the cheap cantilever mount from a dimestore online? my first mistake, however, when on a budget...

I have my FSB and BUIS zeroed nicely. Put the aimpoint on the rail and could not get the dot over enough to put it center at 50yds. I toyed with the sight and mount several times. I still cannot figure it out. I need to go more to the right and down, but the sight is maxed out in both directions.

Has anyone had any problems or is it just me. I can move the dot, I watched it, but I can't get it to zero. In my career I put thousands of rounds through the weapons and have used the M68 with no problems. That is why I chose Aimpoint. My EOTECH was dead on, what could it be.

I am thinking a cheap mount... Any recommendations. I don't want to get rid of the sight, I do like it, just want to get it running like it should. thanks

Maze

[PushPull]

An optic is only as good as the mounting solution. Use a US nickle to re center the sight. When the nickle touches the sides of the turrets the inner tube is centered. For a quality cantilever mount follow the link.

http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin...=action&key=CM

If you are still having trouble give Aimpoint a call and ask for tech support.

[maze]

Pushpull,

thanks for the response. I am not sure what you are talking about with the US nickel? could you break it down like I am 4? thanks

[PushPull]

Widnage and Elevation adjustments are mechanical adjustments made to the inner tube of the sight. The W/E screws push on this tube while a spring opposite applies resistance.

Back both the windage and elevation screws out far enough to insert a US Nickel. Use the nickel to turn the screws clockwise and drive them in until the sides of the nickel start to touch the turret housing the screws. This is the easiest way to return the sight to a factory center. It wil still need to be zeroed to the rifle.

Be sure the sight is oriented in the mount with either of the W/E adustments at the 12 'oclock position depending if you are a right or left handed shooter before zeroing. The on/off knob should be at the 1 or 11 'oclock position.

[maze]

Thanks,

I think I got if figured out. I reset the sight, now I have to zero if possible. Also looking at new mount.

Maze

[CPR]

Back both the windage and elevation screws out far enough to insert a US Nickel. Use the nickel to turn the screws clockwise and drive them in until the sides of the nickel start to touch the turret housing the screws. This is the easiest way to return the sight to a factory center. It wil still need to be zeroed to the rifle.

You learn something every day. I did not know this.

[PushPull]

You learn something every day. I did not know this.

I just wish all my two cents were worth a nickel

[FJB]

Maze,
Pushpull's advise is spot on. With out looking at your set up I'd bet you it is the "cheap" mount. How much is your life worth to you? Spend the money and get a LaRue Tactical LT150. ADM is new to the scene and may be viable, but have minimal experience. Aimpoint has a new QRP mounting system for the CompM2/ML2/M3/ML3/C3 sights as well.

Finally, watch the five Aimpoint video clips at http://www.downrange.tv/show2/
as you'll find some useful info there that will help you as well.

S/F

[UVvis]

Finally, watch the five Aimpoint video clips at http://www.downrange.tv/show2/
as you'll find some useful info there that will help you as well.

Not to totally hijack, that periscope option thingy is pretty slick. I'm wondering if you guys have tried using a beam splitter as well, or did that not transmit enough overall light?