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Thread: m&p 15 T stuck round

  1. #1
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    m&p 15 T stuck round

    I have a M&P 15T that I love. It has a Bushell Holographic Sight mounted and does great.

    I was out Saturday practicing and got a Bloom Bloom real fast and a click. Ejected the round looked ok. Single feed for a while. Later the same thing happen again and this time the round is stuck in barrel and has not been fired.

    This has happen to me a month ago (had to replace the barrel last time). I had a trigger job (parts replaced) 6 months ago and I do not think it is the ammo.

    Seem to me if it was the ammo it would have stuck the fired case in the barrel.

    I NEED HELP. Any ideas?

    Ray

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    "I was out Saturday practicing and got a Bloom Bloom real fast and a click" is material for a different thread.

    Are you saying you have a live round stuck in your chamber? If that's the case something tells me you need to see a gunsmith. Don't forget to take the BCG out of the upper receiver and leave it out.

    Is there still a rim on the case? Will the bolt close on the round? What kind of ammo were you using?

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    M&P

    the rim is fine. it is reloaded ammo but everyone goes in a head space gauge. looks like if it was ammo that the fired case would have stuck. It felt like it went full auto for two rounds and then the problem both times.

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    Who did the trigger job? Sounds like a trip to the gunsmith is in order..ETA: Who reloaded the ammo? and when you say the ammo goes in a head space gage, you're referring to a case gage correct? if so, you DO know how to use it, correct?
    Last edited by ralph; 01-09-12 at 08:45.
    There's a race of men who don't fit in, A race that can't stay still, So, they break the hearts of kith and kin, and roam the world at will..

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    M&P

    I used a Wilson 223 gauge that allows you to drop the round in to make sure it has been re-sized.

    Do not understand why ammo is a concern if it fit in the gauge? Seems odd to me that the AR double fired both times before the problems.

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    M&P

    I would like to know how to deactivate a primer so I can get the round out of the barrel.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray1976 View Post
    I used a Wilson 223 gauge that allows you to drop the round in to make sure it has been re-sized.

    Do not understand why ammo is a concern if it fit in the gauge? Seems odd to me that the AR double fired both times before the problems.
    That's why I asked..There's more to using a case gage than dropping it in and out to see if it's been resized. A case gage will tell you not only if the case is correctly resized, but also if the OAL of the case itself is too long or not. It is entirely possible to push the shoulder of the case down too far, and allow it to chamber too deeply when resizing rifle brass..This is where the case gage comes in.. On the back of the gage you'll notice a "step" milled slightly over the hole where you drop the case in, when a case is correctly sized it should be below the top of the gage and ABOVE the lower step..if it's below the lower step, this could cause problems.Remember, that when the die is set up for say, a bunch of lake city brass, The die MAY need adjusted when you start sizing say, some PMC brass. In your case, it sounds like the rifle doubled, and then chambered a round that possibly wasn't resized correctly, and jammed it into the chamber too far..Who reloaded the ammo? Did they check the OAL of the cases before loading them?Are the cases sized correctly? And Who did your trigger work? If the rifle is doubling, then something's wrong,period. Take it to a 'smith to get the round out...If you're doing the reloading, then check your sizing die, and check the cases OAL..While the rifle's at the 'smith have him look at the trigger/hammer engagement surfaces..If it's been doubling, I'd seriously consider replacing both the hammer and trigger, and get you money back from whoever did the "trigger job" because it sounds like they screwed up..
    Last edited by ralph; 01-09-12 at 09:59.
    There's a race of men who don't fit in, A race that can't stay still, So, they break the hearts of kith and kin, and roam the world at will..

  8. #8
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    M&P

    I did make sure the cases were not to long. But I am reloading both Lake City and PMC. The trigger job was a Kit but will go back to the smith. I think the problem there is the trigger spring to light and my finger to close. I brought 1k of the russian stuff yesterday to make sure it works.

    I was having problems earlier and corrected my dies. would just like to not worry about this

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray1976 View Post
    I did make sure the cases were not to long. But I am reloading both Lake City and PMC. The trigger job was a Kit but will go back to the smith. I think the problem there is the trigger spring to light and my finger to close. I brought 1k of the russian stuff yesterday to make sure it works.

    I was having problems earlier and corrected my dies. would just like to not worry about this
    I've ran both L.C. and PMC, and did'nt need to adjust MY dies..They fit in the case gage just fine..Now, when you say you were having problems and corrected your dies, Did you load any of this brass before you caught it? and did any of this get mixed in any of your other ammo? You do know that once the shoulder is pushed down too far, those cases are scrap...I'd also reconsider the trigger job..If this rifle is intended for HD/SD/SHTF the last thing you want is a trigger that loses adjustment or needs attention, starts doubling etc, suggest you go back to stock trigger, or Buy a Geissele, They're not cheap, But they don't need constant attention either,(non adjustable) install once, put a small amount of grease on contact surfaces once in a while, and drive on.
    There's a race of men who don't fit in, A race that can't stay still, So, they break the hearts of kith and kin, and roam the world at will..

  10. #10
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    Do so at your own peril, but many thousands of live rounds have been tapped from chambers using a simple cleaning rod. Use a soft faced hammer and brass rod. You should be g2g. Be sure and inspect the stuck round, the barrel throat, the bolt assembly paying special attention to the bolt face.

    On the round itself, check for pin strike, extraction marks that appear 'smudged' in the brass, or a crushed case shoulder.

    Look for small brass shavings that could have ground off of other rounds causing the malf from a pile of poorly reloaded/poorly sized ammo. Such shavings often cause sear issues and could have led to the burst before malf.

    I'm sure IG will have better advice than me.

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