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Thread: m&p 15 T stuck round

  1. #11
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    Was that written in English? I honestly can't tell.
    Mobocracy is alive and well in America.*
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    'All of my firearms have 4 military features, a barrel, a trigger, a hammer, and a stock."
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  2. #12
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    Was there something in particular you didn't understand? Which part was unclear? I wasn't deliberately trying to be obtuse.

  3. #13
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    Had the same problem using early laquer coated russian fodder. A simple tap with a cleaning rod popped the round free. No big deal really.

  4. #14
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    Soak it

    The earlier question about deactivating the primer. Stand the bbl on the muzzle end and put some Kroll down the bbl and let it sit. For how long- till you cant' stand it anymore. Is it guanteed? No but it's better than nothing IMO. And for heavens sake if you do tap it out clamp the bbl in something pointed away from anything fragile and use a driver that keeps you away from the business end

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by nineteenkilo View Post
    Was there something in particular you didn't understand? Which part was unclear? I wasn't deliberately trying to be obtuse.
    I'm pretty sure he's referring to the first post, not yours, and just didn't specify.
    Contractor scum, AAV

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac5.56 View Post
    Was that written in English? I honestly can't tell.
    Not English, Southern I think. "Bloom, bloom" is Southern for 'bang, bang".

    I think you have two problems going here Ray. One, your rifle is doubling and the other, your reloaded ammo is incorrect. I will leave it to others with more experience with ARs to offer solutions but from my meager experience I will offer that doubling can be caused by holding the pistol grip too lightly.

    One thing: though it is rare for a cartridge to fire when you are pounding it out from the muzzle, it is possible. In this case the upper or rifle as the case may be can be as dangerous from the breech end as from the muzzle. I have heard of a person being killed when the case was discharged out the rear of the action at high velocity.

    I disagree with the soft hammer and brass rod advice. Your rod is going to be in contact with the bullet, not the primer and your hammer is going to be banging on the rod, not the primer. Regular old cleaning rod, with a push tip if you have it, regular old hammer, stand it vertical on a table, using eye protection and reaching out at arms length, give the rod a good rap. You should orient everything as though something is coming out the front then and the back at 2,000 feet per second. There is a real good chance the primer will not be deactivated and you can't tell either way. Beating it out with a hammer and a rod is SOP. Just make sure you and any helpers are in the clear, that is, out of the line of fire, both ends, if it does go bang. Really, due to the much greater weight of the rod than the cartridge case, it is the case likely to be the greatest danger.
    Last edited by Suwannee Tim; 01-12-12 at 20:22.

  7. #17
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    and please do not use a tip like this


    they easily wedge between the projo and the barrel and are hell to get loose.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suwannee Tim View Post
    Not English, Southern I think. "Bloom, bloom" is Southern for 'bang, bang".
    Lol. I guess that's why I understood it.

    Yeah, good advice on the tip. I usually center up the hollow end of a cleaning rod on a stuck round, but you could just as easily use a brass jag.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tweak View Post
    and please do not use a tip like this.....
    I've never tried that. I'll try to remember not to. I have "push tips" which have threads on one end and a plain, solid, flat far end.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ralph View Post
    That's why I asked..There's more to using a case gage than dropping it in and out to see if it's been resized. A case gage will tell you not only if the case is correctly resized, but also if the OAL of the case itself is too long or not. It is entirely possible to push the shoulder of the case down too far, and allow it to chamber too deeply when resizing rifle brass..This is where the case gage comes in.. On the back of the gage you'll notice a "step" milled slightly over the hole where you drop the case in, when a case is correctly sized it should be below the top of the gage and ABOVE the lower step..if it's below the lower step, this could cause problems.Remember, that when the die is set up for say, a bunch of lake city brass, The die MAY need adjusted when you start sizing say, some PMC brass. In your case, it sounds like the rifle doubled, and then chambered a round that possibly wasn't resized correctly, and jammed it into the chamber too far..Who reloaded the ammo? Did they check the OAL of the cases before loading them?Are the cases sized correctly? And Who did your trigger work? If the rifle is doubling, then something's wrong,period. Take it to a 'smith to get the round out...If you're doing the reloading, then check your sizing die, and check the cases OAL..While the rifle's at the 'smith have him look at the trigger/hammer engagement surfaces..If it's been doubling, I'd seriously consider replacing both the hammer and trigger, and get you money back from whoever did the "trigger job" because it sounds like they screwed up..
    This is huge right here. I made the mistake of not knowing 100% how the gauge worked this past summer and got a few stuck cases during rapid fire strings at a service rifle match. Rounds worked fine during slow fire but not rapid. Come to find out a CH of the rim was above the lower lip and caused the rounds to jam in the chamber. I got a cleaning rod, banged out the live round from the bore and continued to shoot that day. Quick adjustment to my dies fixed the problem.

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