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Thread: Cleaning my AR

  1. #61
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    Metal isn't porous.
    Actually, some surfaces on weapons (depending on make and material of course) have so-called micro pores, or rather small pits. Especially barrels, but dependant on lining. Also, some finishes wil retain more oil than others.

    Ever heard of a gun 'sweating'? That is residual oil and carbon coming out of these pores/pits after a few days. The G3 was notorious for this, and a lot of guys got really mad for failing inspections, when the gun was white-glove clean the day before, and there was dirt the next day for inspection, even if the gun just sat in the locker.

    Anyways, this is the way I clean my rifle:

    -Run a CLP covered patch through the barrel of my gun as soon as I am cleared off the range
    -Disassemble weapon
    -Cover piston in CLP and let it sit
    -Use compressed air to blow away debris from upper and lower
    -Wipe off visible carbon and dirt from inside the upper and lower with dry cleaning patches
    -Disassemble BCG and wipe off the parts with a dry patch. Clean parts with a patch covered in CLP. Wipe off with dry patch, then lube each component before reassembling. I do not disassemble extractor every time.
    -Clean lower with patches covered in CLP
    -Clean upper with patches covered in CLP
    -Put CLP on chamber brush and clean locking lugs and chamber. Wipe down with dry patch
    -Wipe down charging handle with dry patch, clean with patch covered in CLP. Dry off and lube.
    -Wipe down lower with dry patch, and then lube the following areas:

    • Buffer and recoil spring
    • Safety selector, both sides of lower
    • Trigger group and springs
    • Bolt catch
    • Mag release


    -Wipe down upper with dry patch, and then lube following areas:

    • Forward assist
    • Dust cover spring assembly
    • Inside of upper
    • Locking lugs
    • Front sight
    • Adjustable gas regulator (not disassembled every time)


    -Wipe down piston rod, clean with patch covered in CLP, dry off and lube
    -Remove carbon build up on piston with copper brush and CLP. Wipe off, and lube.
    -Run a copper brush covered in CLP through bore a few times, use bore snake a few times, repeat with copper brush covered in CLP. Run a few patches through to get rid of excessive lubricant. Visually inspect.

    I also visually inspect each part while cleaning it, looking for breaks or excessive wear.

    The only lube I use is BreakFree CLP, although I am currently trying out Slip 2000 to see if it is good. No issues so far.

    I have never needed any special concoctions to keep my guns running in the cold, or in sandy climates.
    Last edited by Arctic1; 02-08-12 at 00:46.

  2. #62
    Join Date
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    The hot water treatment is very common with black powder guns. As mentioned though it is very important to lube it properly after it is dried off. If not it will rust by just thinking about it.

    Also gun don't technically absorb oil but the oil will collect in the pores of the steel, however small they may be. Same but different ideas. Black oxide and parkerization are designed for just that.

    Quote Originally Posted by ucrt View Post
    I used to shoot 100 -125 year old cap & ball rifle with my uncle in PA with real black powder. We would clean the guns with boiling hot water and soap to get rid of the corrosive salts. By the time the gun cooled; the water would be evaporated, so we lubed them. He never had a rust problem.

    Just a note, a lot of people think metal "absorbs" oil...not possible.
    I think evaporation is mistaken for absorption in that there may be less oil than what you put on the gun a few days before. If you put a layer of oil (especially BF CLP) and come back a week later, some of the oil, solvents, etc. will evaporate but they aren't absorbed. There might be a remaining (protective or not) film but it hasn't "soaked" into the metal.
    Metal isn't porous.

    But maybe it's just me...

    .

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by sinlessorrow View Post
    i do a 50/50 mixture. what ive found best is to get you a little bottle that will fit in your pistol grip and fill it half way with oil and the other half with ATF, doing this will make 1 quart of each last you years, ive been on the same quarts for 1yr now and they still have over 3/4th the quarts left. it should look like this

    Thank you for clarifying the mixture. That sounds simple enough! Is that an old Visine bottle you are using?

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terminator2003 View Post
    Thank you for clarifying the mixture. That sounds simple enough! Is that an old Visine bottle you are using?
    sure is i found the smallest one possible so it would fit my grip

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by lmurtha1 View Post

    -Spray a shot of Hoppe's MOLY oil Aerosol down barrel. Run 1 patch to wipe excess.

    .
    Does this leave oil in the barrel? I think it was Pat McNamara who warned against this as it can result in hydrostatic pitting when the gun is fired.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by sinlessorrow View Post
    i do a 50/50 mixture. what ive found best is to get you a little bottle that will fit in your pistol grip and fill it half way with oil and the other half with ATF, doing this will make 1 quart of each last you years, ive been on the same quarts for 1yr now and they still have over 3/4th the quarts left. it should look like this

    I lube with synthetic motor oil and my BCG looks like yours after 4-500rds. What advantage does the ATF add? Just curious as I have of others who use a mix rather than just oil.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

  7. #67
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    I like the bottle in the grip idea.. I'll look for a couple.. Mine probably won't have ATF in it however, FP-10 most likely. I do use ATF in my Toyota transmission.. works great.. Cheers.. Ron
    Ain't no pockets on a shroud..

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoo95 View Post
    I lube with synthetic motor oil and my BCG looks like yours after 4-500rds. What advantage does the ATF add? Just curious as I have of others who use a mix rather than just oil.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
    the ATF helps keep the motor oil from gumming up in cold temps, and gives it a little bit more lubricity to it

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