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Thread: firing pin designs... why the change?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whootsinator View Post
    Sounds like a plenty good reason to me.
    I agree that if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but my impression from his initial statement of there being "plenty of reason not to" was that he had specific reasons it would cause failure, and I wanted to learn more about these potential problems. I see now that wasn't the case, he just has vague worries about the unknown.

  2. #12
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    Guys, thanks for the responses...

    I do see the point with regards to the extra machining step.
    I don't see the point of folks guessing and reiterating "if it ain't broke don't fix it" B.S. It's my ****ing rifle, my life does not depend on it, and I want to know from people who have used a cone firing pin what the difference is - end of story. So don't chime in with the gun will explode if you install this part B.S. because frankly if I break the gun I'll build another, and will learn something in the process.

    BTW, the link I sent is for a "clone" firing pin, not a real H&K 416 firing pin that has to disengage the safety lever added to the BCG. In fact, its the clone 416 firing pin from the now defunct Titan Defense entity. (This is what happened to the parts they made) So, since the cloned Titan 416 upper did not have the firing pin block system, the link I provided is for a firing pin that will work in any AR15 that uses a regular firing pin. I have handled a real 416 firing pin from an upper and it will NOT work in a regular AR as H&K specifically machined a large radius in the shaft of the pin where it transitions to the first "spool" - blocking it from being mixed up with a regular AR15 pin. They also changed a few of the dims around specific to the redesign of their 416 rifle as possible improvements to the original design. The clone 416 firing pin is the exact same dims as a regular pin minus the cone end...

    I will ask again, to see if there is any other information that surfaces besides cost savings. I mean why did they design it that way in the first place?
    Last edited by E-man930; 02-09-12 at 19:40.

  3. #13
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    I see your point. I did not understand that you were planning on using a Titan pin instead of at least one with HK dimensions, if not genuine HK. In that case, I expect that it will work just fine. ...Just like a normal pin.

    I respect your interest in the history of the design and curiosity about the conical ass of the pin. What I cannot understand is why this mere curiosity leads you to want to put one in a gun you own. You can do whatever you like with your money and your property. Just trying to save you some money and possibly trouble, here. You can defend this conical design till your dying day... The point will always remain valid: there is absolutely nothing wrong with a normal pin.
    Last edited by Pax; 02-10-12 at 03:47.

  4. #14
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    There is no additional difficulty in manufacturing one design or the other, or any "extra step" in machining involved other than a slight modification of the toolpath on the sub-spindle side. These parts would all be done in a CNC swiss screw machine. The difference in cycle time would negligible.
    “The practical success of an idea, irrespective of its inherent merit, is dependent on the attitude of the contemporaries." Nikola Tesla

  5. #15
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    Pax I appreciate the addition response, I should have clarified the part. However, my main objective with this thread is not to find a better wiz-bang firing pin, it is to try and understand why H&K used a cone end pin instead of the knob end like everyone else. Remember they went to the drawing board and evaluated every component of the rifle for their redesign, and they ended up with a cone pin design - which is what was original to the rifle. So, there is our Scooby-Doo mystery I'm looking to solve.

  6. #16
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    Im now wondering what the heck is wrong with using the fp tip to remove the extractor pin, especially if Im squeezing it tight together
    and simply pushing it out with the tip.

  7. #17
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    You don't want to risk creating a burr or sharp edge on the FP tip which could result in reducing it's ability to ignite primers. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straight Shooter View Post
    Im now wondering what the heck is wrong with using the fp tip to remove the extractor pin, especially if Im squeezing it tight together
    and simply pushing it out with the tip.
    Over the years I've seen 2 Sailors break the tip of the firing pin while using it as a punch for takedown. Most everyone has probably used it for takedown over the years once or twice. However, it's simply not the prudent thing to do.
    "The peace we have within us is most often expressed in how we treat others"

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by seb5 View Post
    Over the years I've seen 2 Sailors break the tip of the firing pin while using it as a punch for takedown.
    I believe I've found the problem.


  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpaceWrangler View Post
    I believe I've found the problem.

    Knockin' on the Navy, huh That couldn't happen with a jarhead or hua, no never! I will add that these "Sailors" are truly what we call ourselves, dirt Sailors. The only ship most of us were ever on was a cruise ship.
    "The peace we have within us is most often expressed in how we treat others"

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