Any bad experiance seen with FP-10?

[Parabellum9x19mm]

weapon shield is great stuff, but you can buy break free anywhere...even wally world. i wind up using break free and mobil 1 mostly.

[Joe R.]

I've been using FP-10 for years, since it first became available. I use it year round and have never seen a problem with it, mind you in eastern PA we don't normally see negative numbers on the thermometer very often.

I use several other products as well, but FP-10 is a good all round cleaner and lubricant. Yes I have and still do recommend it.

[larry0071]

I tested it 2 ways. The first way is how I found the product to begin with. I met a guy at the sled pulls that also runs sprint cars. I am a sled puller, Ford 460 based engine, 521ci that we spin 8,500 RPM's. The normal season for us was about 25 runs down the track at about 30 seconds each. That is per year. Lets call it 15 min per year of balls out running, and another 2 hrs of idleing around the pits and getting on and off the trailer per year. In this time we had always needed to drop the pan and replace the mains and rods mid summer. Nothing wrong with that, its normal. But... Bob says to me that I should try out the MT-10 stuff. Add it to my oil. We talked a bit about it and I went and got a couple 16oz bottles. This was maybe 8 years ago. The next year with MT-10 in the same basic build with the same oil....nothing much changed in the engine program except for the new MT-10.....we pulled the pan mid year and found that the bearings were nearly like new. We put the pan on and kept going. At the end of the year we pulled the pan again knowing that by now the bearings are getting well worn...MT-10 or not. Wrong. So I spoke with my father and we decided to play a game with our $25K engine....we were going for season #2 on the same bearings and not going to change the rings like we normally did each winter. We went all season 2 just watching oil pressure....waiting for a drop in pressure that would indicate bearing wear. Nope. Pulled the pan at the end of season 2 and could not believe it. We did leak down tests on all cylinders, cylinder pressure tests....nothing was showing wear....? How could this be? We ran season 3 with the same rings and the same bearings from season 1...We finished out that season with no loss of pressures and we retired that engine just because it was too old. Thats a test.

At this point I had fallen in love. I vowed that if my choice was engine oil alone, or urine with MT-10.... I'll start pee-ing in the crankcase.

We became dealers for MPC a few years ago. I purchased a Timken Bearing Tester (Extreme Pressure Simulator) to play with. I did. My one pal is a Mechanical Engineer and he took great interest in this little machine and in the additive. Honestly, he did not belive it. After we spent a weekend beating on every oil and additive we could find locally he was a 100% believer. As he put it.....all lubricant works fine so long as the "hydrodymanic film" is maintained and parts never try to touch each other. But.. When the hydrodynamic film fails you, your in a situation of Extreme Pressure...Parts are now bearing down on each other and trying to rip each other apart. In a pressurized oil system, the hydrodynamic film is assisted by pressure of the oil system. 60psi of oil pressure will help keep parts from crashing. These guns are not like that. They rely on a very minisule film, so the extreme pressure is about all you have left to deal with. One or two swipes of the bolt and the oil film will be nearly wiped off of the parts that are rubbing together. It is in this situation that the MT-10 comes out and shines. With the Timken Bearing Tester you can apply weight to a bearing and fail it. With normal oil average was around 6-8 psi at total failure. With Class 4 and class 5 synthetics the failure point was in the mid to high teens. With the cheapest no name oil you can find and a few drops of MT-10 you go off-scale past 30psi and the bearing is still going.

Somewhere, Justin has all the facts on that test, he did his final thesis for Penn State Engineering Degree on this.

Thats why I would never sway away from MPC. I was just trying to find anyone that could tell me that they had wear issues or any other issues related to the lubricant while using FP-10 and that they went to XXXX and solved the problem. Saying that you smear dog shit on the gun and it has yet to break does not tell me that dog shit fixed the problem encountered with FP-10... thats why I asked in the beginning only to have comments related to FP-10 and not a random list of what you like. For the sake of my question, I dont care that you use PB Blaster or WD-40 or SAE30 Engine oil...or whatever.

[DrMark]

I’m doing a little corrosion test right now with different lubes...

Is WeaponShield part of your test?

[utahcybercowboy]

I used FP10 for awhile. I really liked it. Then waterfowl season started and to me it seemed to not do so well at preventing rust. Just my observation.

[5pins]

Is WeaponShield part of your test?

No I did not use WeaponShield. I just used some lubes that I had laying around. FP-10, Quaker State 10W-40 Synthetic
, Hoppes gun oil, Rem oil, Breakfree CLP, Miltec-1, Mlitec-1 grease, WD-40, and Aluma-Hyde II.

I took a piece of steel and cut it up into ten pieces. I then cleaned and degreased with break cleaner. Then carefully applied the lubricant to the steel. I then used a plastic zip tie and then hung them on my fence around the first of September. This is what they looked liked when I but them out.

No lube, FP-10, Quaker State 10W-40 Synthetic
, Hoppies gun oil, Rem oil, Breakfree CLP, Miltec-1, Miltec-1 grease, WD-40, Aluma-Hyde II.






This is what they looked liked after about a month.







I will go out and take some more pics today if I have a chance. I have over two feet of snow so I’m not making any guaranties.

[Joe Mamma]

I'm one of those guys that is always trying new lubricants. I've used FP-10 a lot. My only legitimate complaint is that it seems to separate. There are no solid particles, but it seems like there are 2 different liquid components. I've noticed this sometimes when I put a drop or two on a cotton patch. The outer wet spot is a different color than the inner wet spot. There's no way this can be good.

That's why I've gotten in the habit of shaking it gently before I use it. I think the company recommends that too. I don't remember seeing it on the bottles (which also bothers me), but I think someone from the company told me this when I was talking to them.

Honestly, I'm looking to move onto something else.

Joe Mamma

[GONIF]

I have tryed every lube out there in the last 40+ years and use Mobil 1 on my AR's and have found it as good or better than everything except LaRue's machine gunners lube . I got a free sample of the machine gunners lube when I bought a LaRue mount ,if you have the cash and want the best that's it . I'm sticking with Mobil 1 because it works great and I'm too cheap to buy the best .

[5pins]

I went out and took some more pics. I was a little curious how it was going, I haven’t taken a look for some time. Not only is the FP-10 doing poorly but it’s much worse then the bare steel. This doesn’t make any sense. Even if the FP-10 was worse then the other lubes it still should do better the control piece. Maybe I should start over with the FP-10. These results are far outside what I expected and I’m thinking I did something wrong.

On the other hand I’m surprised with the Q 10w-40 syntactic oil, it’s doing very well.

[Heavy Metal]

You should do occasional duplicates to check your methodology.