I notice I get some "spitting" after shooting a lot of lead (non jacketed) bullets no matter which revolver I am using. A good cleaning remedies that, though.
I notice I get some "spitting" after shooting a lot of lead (non jacketed) bullets no matter which revolver I am using. A good cleaning remedies that, though.
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You were.
Depends on how old the gun is and how mechanically inclined you are.
If it's newer and still under warranty just let S&W fix it. If not, you can email frank as mentioned. Not many of the old master gunsmiths still taking on simple repair work, so if he's still doing that, then that's your solution.
Otherwise you can learn to fix it yourself. The older the gun, though, the more work it is. The modern MIM guns are the easiest. Hell the replacement hand I needed for my 8 shot 627 required no fitting at all.
Around 1992 they switched to the current "square" extractor which is drop in, so post 92 guns won't need to have the ratchets fitted. If worn, get a new $30 replacement from midway.
Around 1988(?) they switched to the current yoke retention assembly which means no fitted yoke screw. If worn, get a new $6 replacement from midway.
Etc. etc.
My recommendation—before trying anything else—is to buy a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen‘s “The S&W Revolver, A Shop Manual,” take the revolver *completely* apart, and give it a thorough cleaning.
The last old Model 10 I bought (cheaply) had a much too-heavy DA trigger, was spitting lead, and would frequently skip cylinders when fired quickly.
Taking it apart and scouring away decades worth of congealed oil fixed all its problems.
I sent a Dan Wesson 44 in to CZ to get retimed and springs refreshed. It was about 3 bills. I didn’t pay much more than that in 93’ when I bought it! They called me with an estimate and quoted additional optional work while in there (springs). It was kind of like you were at the movies, why get the small popcorn when the large is only $2 more. Told them to replace springs. They sent the old springs and parts back in a little bag as well.
From what I remember it would lock up fine when shooting DA but a slow SA hammer draw would not fully time with the barrel.
It is so nice to not have lead casting out the sides any longer.
Hey guys -
I am picking up a SW screwdriver set from Brownells. I will give the revolver a good cleaning. I am a bit nervous taking the side plate off though lol.
I also contacted Frank Glenn and S&W. Frank is great and had planned on sending him the revolver (probs still will), but S&W also got back with me and wants me to send the 19-4 into them for "evaluation," What would you guys do? You can obviously tell how green I am.
Nothing to removing side plate; remove all screws, tap or impact grip frame with screwdriver or hammer HANDLE - inertia will gently shift sideplate out of the frame.
With what you said, I would encourage sending gun back to S&W.
It is extremely helpful to have a sensei/mentor help with learning the S&W, especially a revolver which is no longer produced whose parts will command a premium.
Sure, a guy can learn from the Kunhausen book or maybe YouTube, the smart money says send the gun back to S&W.
I dropped my 19-4 at FedEx today. Mr. Glenn recommended sending it back to them first, if they're paying the shipping. Thanks for all the help. I will update as it unfolds just for fun.
Hey guys -
Got the revolver back from S&W today. They refused to work on it; paperwork said it was "obsolete/ no parts." *sighs*
Parts ARE available, you need someone that knows where to look or has them on hand.
S&W is today, an effing shadow of it's former self.
Time to consider sending to F. Glenn.
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