Need help choosing progressive press

[lsllc]

Hornady Lock-N-Load AP is a high value press with 100% warranty. I have two and it will actually load straighter ammo than a Dillon, but is somewhat more finicky. Once you get it tuned it works. One of mine didn’t wear out any parts until 100,000 rounds of 9mm. Hornady replaces the parts free.


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[Krazykarl]

The 550b is a superb press for the money. The primer feed is smooth, the primer seating on the up stroke is sensitive enough to feel the anvil bottom out in the primer pocket, the powder measure does well metering up to h322 and varget. I dont weigh charges anymore and find my chronograph data gives acceptable SD values with the 550b.

The not great,

1. The used primer cup sucks. Many of us use a single stage to deprime anyway.

2. Spilled powder plays some havoc with the shell plate rotation. Compressed air works wonders!

3. The powder meters don't have gauges or any indicator of volume. Pain in the ass recalibrating the measure between loadings. I have 4 different complete tool heads. Really wish there was some way to record in my journal the meter setting for each load...

[CDR_Glock]

I've been loading for 5 years or so now, on a turret press and single stage. Calibers include 9mm, .45ACP, .223, and .308. I'm looking into getting a progressive, specifically a Dillon.

Money is tight, so I don't need all the bells and whistles to start. I'd like a press that can crank out pistol rounds primarily, but have the option to load rifle as well. I'm pretty sure this rules out the Square Deal B...Dillon's site doesn't seem to list a 650 any more, is the 550 the one for me? I'm not opposed to buying used if the price is right....

Well, the 550 is progressive but manual indexing, meaning you rotate the base plate.

The 550C is what they have and it’s versatile and faster than a Square deal.

The 750 replaced the 650 which is an auto indexing reloading press.

If money is tight, the Hornady Lock N Load progressive auto indexes and is a much cheaper option.

I have 4 Dillon 550 and 1 Dillon 450.

I have 2 single stage Hornady Lock N Load presses, also, so I understand the pain.

Another option is a turret press which is a step up from single stage. I have an RCBS and Lee turret. It is double the output from a single stage.

Look in FaceBook marketplace, gun groups, eBay and craigslist. It doesn’t hurt to find some used equipment.


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[ubet]

I had a tough time making the decision to pull the trigger on a Dillon 650. But am so glad I did. I reload 45acp, 223 and 308 win match grade ammo on it. You won’t regret it one bit. I resize and load in the same pass on it. If I need to trim, then yes it has to be done in two stages. If money is tight, avoid the case feeder. The 650 is really worth it though. It’s a solid platform. I did notice though that Redding dies work better on it than rcbs.


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[Bimmer]

1. The used primer cup sucks...

Hmmm... Mine "misses" now and again, and then I have a used primer on the floor.

No big deal. The Roomba sucks 'em right up. (It also sucks up loaded cartridges!)

2. Spilled powder plays some havoc with the shell plate rotation. Compressed air works wonders!

Yes, compressed air is good, or now I keep a Makita "dustbuster" right next to the bench.

I also re-assigned one of the little brushes that came with a cordless razor to clean around the shell plate...

3. The powder meters don't have gauges or any indicator of volume. Pain in the ass recalibrating the measure between loadings. I have 4 different complete tool heads...

You're doing it wrong.

Buy an extra powder measure bar (just the adjustable bar, so $20-25) for each toolhead/caliber.

Then, change out the bar with the toolhead, and the bar will always be set correctly (or at least as correct as it was when you last used it).

I load for eight calibers, and have a "pre-set" powder bar for each one...

[Krazykarl]

Bimmer,

Would it really inconvenience Dillon to put some reference marks on the powder bar? I will not have separate powder measure bars for separate 556 loads.

Karl

Edited for minor correction.

[grizzman]

As Bimmer stated, you don’t need a tool head for each load....just the powder measure bar.

I label mine with the grains of a particular powder they’re set for. Changing them takes less than a minute.


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[Bimmer]

Pain in the ass recalibrating the measure between loadings.

I will not have separate powder measure bars for separate 556 loads...

So, it's not enough of a pain in the ass that you won't spend $20 or $25 to fix it?

Would it really inconvenience Dillon to put some reference marks on the powder bar?

You're right, it wouldn't be a big deal...

Something like this wouldn't cost Dillon more than a few pennies per machine:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Prec...YAAOSwJ7RYSWfV


Dillon could be better about watching what the aftermarket is selling and at least offer as an option a version of Uni-Tek's "micrometer":
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UniqueTek-M...AAAOSwu7xbqR0k

(I'm not associated with either of these products and I don't have or even want them.)


My ghetto solution: I drew a line across the head of each adjustment nut with a Sharpie, as a witness mark, so that it's very clear if it moves or what fraction of a turn I'm making...

[Krazykarl]

I have also used a sharpie mark on several powder bars for reference. Changing powders and components for various loadings with in the same cartridge necessitates knowing your volume settings. Helps with repeatability.

[Bimmer]

I just got a Brother label printer from Costco for $20 (!), and now it's easier than ever to label toolheads, powder bars, etc.

It'll print a self-adhesive label small enough to stick on the end of a "small" powder bar...

While I'm self-isolating, I'm going berserk with the label maker...