Froglube

[Warp]

It is a little pricey for the amount you get. I use it on glock, xdm, POF, cmmg .22lr, and my sks.

So far i only used little less than half of the none liquid FL. I had it for about 6 months or so. So it depends how often you clean your guns.
On the instruction it says to use rubbing alcohol to get rid of any residual oils or other stuff.
What i do is, Heat up the metal parts and polymer till where it's warm/hot. Put FL, wait for about 30min. or so to let it dry. Reheat it and clean. Then i'll reheat it again and put some light coating to keep it lubed. Then i'll put some of the liquid FL down the barrel.
Then go shot. U can leave it on there. It won't it hurt it.
As the parts heat up when you shot, you will see FL start to get sheen because it will start to liquify. When your done do a quick rub down. The FL creates some what like a barrier from the carbon build when you shot. So it helps makes cleaning a little easier.
Smells good and you don't have to wear gloves or anything.

Youtube FL.

But what size did you get?

Had the liquid and paste for about 3-4 months now. Used for multiple weapons 5-6 cleanings on my glock and AR. I have cleaned my 700 twice with it and my p228 twice. So far I have used maybe a 1/5 of my 4 oz of paste and less than that of the 4 oz. liquid. It goes an incredibly long way and spreads well, especially in the barrels.

Wow.

Thanks. I was looking at the 4oz paste/4oz liquid. Sounds like that would be plenty

[ComradeBoris]

Should be. Some people melt their FL and put it on the gun. I just pasted it on with a toothbrush and tossed the parts in the oven. Now I don't even really do that. I just shoot outside in the oppressive summer heat and let that do the work It can last longer or shorter depending on how you apply it I think. Myself I think when I run out of the paste I will stay with the liquid. I have noticed zero different between them other than the liquid spreads more easily for bores and pistol guts. As I said before, I put a single drop on my finger and got the whole inside of my glock 19 wet and used a brush to get the rails. Easy as pie. When using it on the bore of my M700 and AR it appeared as though it spread very well in the barrel and the brush looked to be getting the gunk out. Is this any better than other products? I don't know, but as far as I can tell I like the smell, it seems to do what it states, and I just ignore their ridiculous marketing.

[DIRTMAN556]

With no blow gun or hair dryer, I simply placed some parts inside of the still hot engine bay of my car. Worked nicely to toast parts.

[WS6]

12 hours on my 370Z rotor in light mist/rain/high humidity, de-greased with acetone, lubes applied and then wiped over once to remove excess (using dry paper-towel, blue, shop). Then, glass of water thrown directly on (after 12 hours of rain and humidity in the parking-lot). Pictures 3-4 hours after that.

*Car was driven around the block immediately prior to application, rotors were warm when applied.

Left--->right: CLP, old FL Paste, new FL Paste.






I have yet to find ANYTHING that rusts faster than a brake rotor.

[mdrums]

You SHOULD NOT be putting lube on your brake rotors for obvious reasons...well maybe not obvious to you. WOW!

[jmart]

You SHOULD NOT be putting lube on your brake rotors for obvious reasons...well maybe not obvious to you. WOW!

That definitely puts the "sporting" back in sports car.

[Vishous]

You know a quick step on the brakes will remove all rust on the rotors...

I hope you ran some brake clean over that to remove the lubricants.

Be safe and enjoy the Z

Sent from my Triumph

[wtheesfeld]

Please don't lubricate your brake rotors any more. Go get some brakleen and really clean them well. As someone above said, that rust goes away the first time you hit the brakes. Putting a heat activated lubricant on your friction based stopping point of your car is mind boggling.

[WS6]

You know a quick step on the brakes will remove all rust on the rotors...

I hope you ran some brake clean over that to remove the lubricants.

Be safe and enjoy the Z

Sent from my Triumph

Yes, and the Z did just fine without any sort of chemical de-greasing. The friction/heat (really the forming and breaking of chemical bonds as pad material bonded to the rotor and pad material on the pad form/break bonds--and hence the need to bed brakes properly--, but most people are happier thinking of simple "friction" as occurring, instead) generated between the pads and rotor are such that the lubricant is removed in VERY short order, just like the rust. Never have I ever heard of a thumb-smear's lubricant on a brake-rotor being an issue at all. It doesn't bare worrying over, and I never felt the slightest difference in pedal feel on the way to the gym this morning. Even my first stop was completely normal.

[Vishous]

I figured it was for testing purposes as brakes like to rust so darn fast like you mentioned.

Safety is a priority when driving a performance vehicle, especially if you push your vehicle to the limit.

Sent from my Triumph