painting ARs

[St.Michael]

once you paint on krylon and stuff is there ever a way to remove it to get that nice Tacticool black look?

also, can degreaser hurt my rifle at all? what is a good one that wont mess up anything that you guys recommend?

[SSGN_Doc]

once you paint on krylon and stuff is there ever a way to remove it to get that nice Tacticool black look?

also, can degreaser hurt my rifle at all? what is a good one that wont mess up anything that you guys recommend?

Chlorine free brake cleaner works pretty well. Also, hot soapy water works great too. If you are doing steel parts and use the soap and water route you want to dry things pretty quickly. A hair dryer works great, or a 150 degree oven.

[chadbag]

Chlorine free brake cleaner works pretty well. Also, hot soapy water works great too. If you are doing steel parts and use the soap and water route you want to dry things pretty quickly. A hair dryer works great, or a 150 degree oven.

If you go the soapy water route, use WD-40 in all the nooks and crannies. WD=water displacer and will get it out. Then also let it dry in an open as dry as possible area etc.

[thopkins22]

How does the "Removable Mission Specific Camouflage Coating" wear/look/remove?

Is it a decent option for those of us who love the look of a painted gun but aren't sure we want to go all out?

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.c...movable%20Camo

[SSGN_Doc]

If you go the soapy water route, use WD-40 in all the nooks and crannies. WD=water displacer and will get it out. Then also let it dry in an open as dry as possible area etc.

That would kind of put back some "grease", which could be counter productive if you are applying paint or a spray on coating that you want to have stick to the surface of the gun.

[St.Michael]

SO yo dont HAVE to heat up the Duracoat to use it?

[chadbag]

SO yo dont HAVE to heat up the Duracoat to use it?

No. However it helps. Do you want to create an easy way of heating your stuff up?

Cover it with a tarp or something (don't let it touch your work of art) and stick some lightbulbs underneath.

[chadbag]

That would kind of put back some "grease", which could be counter productive if you are applying paint or a spray on coating that you want to have stick to the surface of the gun.

yes, sorry, confused was I as to why we were washing.


Use a degreaser chemical. I got a gallon of something from the Duracoat people. It works wonders.

[my65swede@yahoo.com]

Please, for the sake of your rifle and your sanity-use the Duracoat! Krylon does not stand up to most bore cleaners and other solvents. Once your duracoat is properly cured you can smack it up against a tree if you want-you'll hurt the tree and your rifle more than the Duracoat. Spray paint from a rattle can will eventually peel and scratch. Sure you can get it off, but it'l take you all day with laquer thinner and your original finish will never look the same and you will need to paint it all over again. It lives up to the hype and it's worth the trouble. I would not recommend using Duracoat's airbrush and propellant can though(crap). Buy or borrow a good airbrush and compressor (the pawn shops are full of them) I prefer a small touch-up gun to an airbrush. As far as heat goes I like to let it flash for about an hour and then put the parts in the oven at 150 degrees for about 30 minutes but you don't have to. It may not be to everyone's taste, but the Multicam job below took about 8 hours and I even made all my own stencils during those 8 hours. You should be able to do your first one color job in 4 hours or less.

[Iraqgunz]

Swede,

Many of us here have who have painted our stuff have used Krylon and it works fine. It is easy to touch up when needed and I have very little issues with it holding up. Having said that I don't care of they look pretty.

Please, for the sake of your rifle and your sanity-use the Duracoat! Krylon does not stand up to most bore cleaners and other solvents. Once your duracoat is properly cured you can smack it up against a tree if you want-you'll hurt the tree and your rifle more than the Duracoat. Spray paint from a rattle can will eventually peel and scratch. Sure you can get it off, but it'l take you all day with laquer thinner and your original finish will never look the same and you will need to paint it all over again. It lives up to the hype and it's worth the trouble. I would not recommend using Duracoat's airbrush and propellant can though(crap). Buy or borrow a good airbrush and compressor (the pawn shops are full of them) I prefer a small touch-up gun to an airbrush. As far as heat goes I like to let it flash for about an hour and then put the parts in the oven at 150 degrees for about 30 minutes but you don't have to. It may not be to everyone's taste, but the Multicam job below took about 8 hours and I even made all my own stencils during those 8 hours. You should be able to do your first one color job in 4 hours or less.