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Thread: Best Muzzle Brake?

  1. #1
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    Best Muzzle Brake?

    What would you recommend for the most controllable/best muzzle brake that doesn't hit the shooter with much more, if any, muzzle blast than a non-braked rifle (I know, I want my cake and to eat it too).

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    I like the dntc

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    I don't know what the difference is between a brake and a comp, and I am by far NOT the expert on this, but i would imagine it depends on what your situation/expectations are.

    FWIW-
    I'll let you know how my FSC556 works out when i get my upper back from gotm4.
    The FSC556 is a flash suppressing version of the DNTC comp.

    HERE is a video of Dave Neth shooting a 14" M4 one handed, with the DNTC comp.

    I'm sure some of the more experienced people here will have a much better answer, and be a lot more technical too.
    E=mc^2+/-3db

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    thats the one im running, the FSC556 works very well.

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    Surefire MB556k


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    How do these compare to the Miculek? Reason I ask is that I live 30 minutes from Clarks.

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    If you're looking for a target shooting brake, I had a JP on my National Match. It was huge and heavy and wickedly effective. If you're looking to equip an M4, You have a lot of choices out there. YHM's seem to be decent, Izzy's will make you enemies of range buddies, the Miculek seemed to be nicely made and effective and I liked the Troy Medieval Flash Suppressor so well, that I decided to get their brake to be compliant here in the PRM....



    www.troyind.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by MassMark View Post
    If you're looking for a target shooting brake, I had a JP on my National Match. It was huge and heavy and wickedly effective. If you're looking to equip an M4, You have a lot of choices out there. YHM's seem to be decent, Izzy's will make you enemies of range buddies, the Miculek seemed to be nicely made and effective and I liked the Troy Medieval Flash Suppressor so well, that I decided to get their brake to be compliant here in the PRM....



    www.troyind.com
    I am leaning towards the Miculek due to price and it's simplicity. My dislike about it is the jam-nut. I do not understand how it works at all. I get that I put the nut on first, then the brake, and then I back the nut off the barrel to put it up against the brake. However, I cannot see how to do this without creating a gap between the jam nut and barrel that would scream "fill me with dust and grit so I can rust/mess up the threads".

  9. #9
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    PRI/MSTN QCB Brake

  10. #10
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    http://egw-guns.com/catalog/product_...products_id=93 i've heard good things about these.

    i have a YHM phantom 5m2 brake.
    it's good, looks nice and is very controllable. my AR feels almost like a .22 actually.
    the muzzle blast can be a little harsh if you're in an enclosed range house but it's nothing terrible. for 30 bucks i figure it works.

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    Here's a noobie question. I understand the basic concepts and differences between MB and FH. Why is a brake or FH better? How do they compare in loudness, muzzle rise, flash hiding? What's the best choice for you?

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    Okay...now for the noob question. The rifle will be new (not fired, and so not gunked up or tq. on the hider changed from firing.)

    It is a 20" rifle. Therefor I have a good place to grip with my hand. Can I remove the A2 flash-supressor with a proper-sized wrench while gripping the barrel aft. of the front sight?

    On to installation...crush-washer or peel-washer? The idea of the crush washer is that if your comp doesnt index right, you keep twisting and it just crushes while maintaining the right amount of resistance until the comp is indexed correctly. This tells me that no TQ measuring device is needed, right? How hard is this to do? Again, can I grasp the barrel and simply use the correct wrench until it is aligned when using a crush washer?

    Thanks!

    PS. How much tq is usually on these things from the factory and how much is required to smash the crush-washer? Will my above cheap-skate method work, or is it full of theory?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SIGfest View Post
    Here's a noobie question. I understand the basic concepts and differences between MB and FH. Why is a brake or FH better? How do they compare in loudness, muzzle rise, flash hiding? What's the best choice for you?
    If any muzzle device messes with sound that becomes a restricted item.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shihan View Post
    If any muzzle device messes with sound that becomes a restricted item.
    I think by noise-level/loud he meant "blasty".

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    This is what I have. TSA Jet Comp

    I'm not sure I can quantify a 100% reduction in muzzle climb, but it's pretty damn close. It actually seems like you have muzzle dip. It definitely tames reward movement.

    Easily the best brake I've ever shot. Very effective all around and a lot better than some breaks in terms of noise and dust kick.

    It's a really neat design.



    It is bad policy to fear the resentment of an enemy. -Ethan Allen

  16. #16
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    Muzzle brakes tend to make the rifle about 9 dB louder at the shooter. I know, I have sound metered some. This is a solid 'twice as loud.' I highly recommend not using a muzzle brake on a rifle as low powered as an AR15 or even a .308. Save it for .300 WM and larger.

    Also there is no such thing as a muzzle brake which suppresses flash. They work on conflicting principles.

  17. #17
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    I don't how well it works, but it looks nice


    The devil danced as he went down
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  18. #18
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    I live in a state where I am not allowed to have an evil flash hider but I can't stand the looks of a plain bull barrel. I also didn't want the hideous blast that you get with most comps/breaks.

    EGW makes two really good comps and best of all, while they look like a flash hider, the ATF has ruled that they aren't. One is for a 20 inch barrel and one for a 16 inch barrel. The difference between the two is that the 20 inch comp is to efficient on a 16 inch barrel, causing the muzzle to dip when fired. The solution they came up with was to drill four holes in the bottom of the 20 inch comp to get the gun to run flat on a 16 inch barrel.

    That is all well and good but it was still too loud and not much fun to shoot prone. Lucky for me I live about 70 minutes from EGW and have been a customer for years. One day I told George how much I hated comps and after some talk we came up with the idea of taking one of his 20 inch comps and opening the front baffle to that of a 38 Super. Without the holes on the bottom there is no problem shooting prone, the gun stays very flat while shooting and best of all it isn't much louder than a gun with a flash hider. I am pleased with the way that it turned out.
    Last edited by rubberneck; 09-16-10 at 22:31.

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    That does look like a good solution for a ban state.

  20. #20
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    Well, I have settled on the FSC556 from PWS. It is 1.5db louder on a 14.5" barrel when compared to an A2 birdcage.

    I have seen videos on their site that convince me it manages recoil VERY well, as well as doing a decent job of flash management. It is not as good as an A2 for flash, but close, and compared to most brakes it is A LOT less flashy.

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