Ruger RPR

[ace4059]

Failure2Stop,
I am disappointed not to be seeing a Knights suppressor and knights clip on attached to the gun.

Other than that, it looks great.

[Failure2Stop]

Failure2Stop,
I am disappointed not to be seeing a Knights suppressor and knights clip on attached to the gun.

Other than that, it looks great.

Hahaha, indeed.
I'm actually about to drop a brake on it, given its job (PRS matches), as the sound and flash reduction isn't necessarily worth the weight and length in that game.
However, there is a thermal sight in its future

[John_Burns]

I just want to make sure I'm understanding that you're saying the RPR "beats the AI" which is almost 600% more expensive and has been around for at least 2 decades?

Do you want to qualify that statement in any way?

A stock AI (.308 Win/ .300 Win Mag) is not really competitive in PRS so given shooters of equal skill levels the RPR in .243 Win running 105gr VLDs @ 3200fps is going to "beat" the AI handily.

Add in better mags and safety location and for me the choice is simple.

[hotrodder636]

Would you be able to take a picture of where the MI rail interfaces with the receiver (side shot)?

Do you have any input on the MI?

Thank you sir.

Hahaha, indeed.
I'm actually about to drop a brake on it, given its job (PRS matches), as the sound and flash reduction isn't necessarily worth the weight and length in that game.
However, there is a thermal sight in its future

[Ring]

A stock AI (.308 Win/ .300 Win Mag) is not really competitive in PRS so given shooters of equal skill levels the RPR in .243 Win running 105gr VLDs @ 3200fps is going to "beat" the AI handily.

Add in better mags and safety location and for me the choice is simple.

no.....
"stock" AI's come in , 260, 6.5CM, 243 and other's..
PRS speed limit is normaly under 3150.
also, a 140 6.5 has the SAME wind at 1k as a 105 6mm the only advantage is drop, 1.7 less mil's

I shoot a AI for PRS, as do quite a few people..



i also have a have a 243 RPR that im plan on using in a match next month..

[Ring]

My RPR Tweak guide....

The Ruger, The Good The Bad and The Ugly.

For the money it's a fantastic buy for anybody wanting to get into the precision rifle sport, there's nothing you can really compare to it and the features that you get for the cash paid. Just having a chassis that can accept 3 different kinds of magazines that can be had for as low as 25 bucks and can hold 25 rounds is kind of nice.

And it pretty much has the upgrade ability of an AR-15 when it comes to pistol grips front rails rails and accessories and if you really want to butt stocks as well.


So, what are some of the bad points that can be easily fixed at home with little or no cost?

After pulling mine apart to get it ready to rebarrel I found the majority of easy things that make big improvements.


Number one the the bolt won't close on an empty chamber with a magazine in.
This is the easiest fix of anything as you can see in this picture you can either do this modification with a Dremel which is the easiest. If you don't have a Dremel you can use a file.
All you need to do is put about a 45 degree bevel on the back edge of the follower so when the bolt moves forward it will allow it to move out of the way so you can single feed the rifle if necessary.




Most of you guys used to most Factory guns probably think the action is quite nice with a short-throw bolt, but if you've ever I had the chance to use more quality custom gun you would also notice it's about as smooth as a xylophone when cycling it back and forth to the Machining marks left on the bolt and inside the receiver.


But this too is a pretty easy fix at home. You want to start with the bolt and do a full disassembly removing the firing pin.
Now the tools to do this is going to be a Dremel and if you have it a bench grinder that has a buffing wheel on it.
if you don't have a buffer then you can do it with some 220 and then some 320 and some 400 or higher sandpaper to polish.
In this photo you will see the back of the bolt with the firing pin removed you'll see the Dual cocking ramps that I polished with an emery bit for dremel, these are the ones that look like pencil erasers.




You want to buff to a nice polish and smooth the edges so they're not Sharp.


To remove Machining marks off the body of the bolt the best way to do it is to hold the bolt in a vice with pads so you don't damage them or scratch the bolt.
Then if you're using sandpaper use it in 2 to 3 inches wide strips and use shoe buffing motion to polish back and forth with the different grits to smooth it out.
You don't have to get it perfectly smooth or a mirror finish you just have to knock off most of the high spots from the Machine Marks.


Now if you have a bench buffer just use the emory compound usually the black stuff and then carefully and slowly turn and buff it out on the body.
Make sure you don't touch the lugs. Now when you're all done I used cold blue to put a blued finish on the bolt to help make it a little bit more rust resistant. Not sure why Ruger didn't bother to do something with that.




Now this part you need to be careful if so you don't release the firing pin from the tool but you'll see in these pictures you'll also want to polish The Mating surfaces on the back of the firing pin where they engaged the cocking ramps.
Again I used an emery bit on a Dremel. Be sure to clean all these parts to get that polishing compound and dust off of them and relube them.





Now this part is easy to do when the barrels not in the action and they're doing a barrel swap but can be done just as easily with the barrel in. With the barrel in, you are going to want the plug the chamber area was some paper towels to keep any of the junk from getting in the barrel. The tools are used for this was it 12 gauge shotgun swab wrapped with a rag and then chucked into a cordless drill with the rod and lapping compound in it.
Before doing this, you need to remove the bolt catch from the receiver after removing the scope mount . This can be a bit tricky to remove the pin that holds it, the easiest way I found was to flip the action upside down and smack the bottom near the hole with a rubber mallet while holding the receiver loosely with four or five hits you should see the pin start to come out and then you can just grab it with a pair of needle-nose and it will slide right out .
If you don't do this you will get lapping compound jammed into it and it won't want to move and it's not easy to clean out . You want to spin this down the length of the inside of the receiver for probably about 60 seconds again you don't have to get every tiny line out of the receiver you just need to polish it up some and remove these high spots but you see in the picture.
You can also use the Eraser bits on the drum all at this point 2 polish and remove the sharp edges around the feed ramps this will just keep you from scratching the bullets up as they go in not a huge big deal.
When done you need to make sure you wash out all of the lapping compound and you can use cold glue to put on the Polish spots or just oil it up and put it back together.




Another thing you're going to want to do is remove your scope base, clean out the screw holes and the screws with some brake cleaner and put it back together with some blue Loctite on them and torque them to 25 inch pounds. The factory does not lock them and the oil from the action will seep into the screw holes and within about a year of use your scope mounts going to be loose. Keep in mind even with Loctite on them the oil can still break it down and loosen them up over time.
Personally I recheck and torque on the screws Every Spring before I start shooting.



Another thing to do is smooth out the safety. When you have the safety out of the gun with a Dremel polish the center section of the safety where it will be rubbing against the cam on the inside of the trigger.
You can also polish the outer edges where it's rubbing against your receiver with the Emery bit and then lube and put back together.




While you have it apart put a couple of drops of a nice thick trigger oil onto the seer, on the grease already there and on the top of it were the bolt rides.




now some guys like to keep their guns looking black, other guys like to paint them my suggestion is to paint it and if you like it black use black paint.
the reason for this is these things are incredibly rust prone because if you're out when it rains water gets on the barrel through the handguard and you can't easily wipe it down to keep it from rusting.
You can use Simple Krylon if you want or if you want something more durable you can get DuraCoat or from Brownells and a Shaker can alumahyde 2, Or if you want to bake it in your oven for harder finish you can order cerakote or KG gun kote. And then reassemble and lube.











After doing these things I would say an easy hundred percent Improvement of the smoothness of the action in both cycling and cocking.

[wilson1911]

That's a very nice how to article. I have a few questions for you.

What was you round count on the factory barrel ?
Are you going to rebarrel with a LRI like most are doing ?
Do you shoot with a can, and are you considering a 22" barrel if so ??

[Failure2Stop]

Would you be able to take a picture of where the MI rail interfaces with the receiver (side shot)?

Do you have any input on the MI?

Thank you sir.

Good pics in this thread, looks identical to mine:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...ifle-Handguard

I have no negatives on the MI handguard, does exactly what it's supposed to do.

[Ring]

That's a very nice how to article. I have a few questions for you.

What was you round count on the factory barrel ?
Are you going to rebarrel with a LRI like most are doing ?
Do you shoot with a can, and are you considering a 22" barrel if so ??

i bought it as a 6.5cm because thats what they had on the shelf... i shoot 260... original plan was to rebarrel to a 260, but decided i wanted to play with a 243 and got a factory barrel for 150$
later when i burn this out, i may go with a CBI, not sure... or BHW http://www.shop.blackholeweaponry.co...sion-Rifle.htm
99% with a can and yes, probably a 22

[hotrodder636]

Thank you sir!

Good pics in this thread, looks identical to mine:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...ifle-Handguard

I have no negatives on the MI handguard, does exactly what it's supposed to do.