M&P10 hates my SilencerCo Omega

[Lincoln7]

Considering my 12" rail, would I be able to access the adjustment for the SLR? Is the adjustment something that I can easily change from unsuppressed to suppressed modes?

On my setup I was able to find a gas setting that works reliably for both suppressed and unsuppressed use. Also, with my SDN-6 still attached I haven't had an issue adjusting my gas block which is covered by the handguard.

[T-Dot]

Ejection angle is not a reliable indicator of carrier speed.

In that case, does anyone know what the inconsistent ejection indicates?

Also, I took a look at the SLR: seems like it would be handy to have, regardless of if you're having over gassing problems or not. I'm tempted to pre-emptively get one anyhow...

[BufordTJustice]

In that case, does anyone know what the inconsistent ejection indicates?

Also, I took a look at the SLR: seems like it would be handy to have, regardless of if you're having over gassing problems or not. I'm tempted to pre-emptively get one anyhow...

Just bought my Ti Sentry 7 set screw from SLR for my AR10 build. It’s my 5th or 6th that I own from them. Have installed well over 20 counting my own.

Ejection pattern itself is not a reliable indicator of anything. I would pay much more attention to the distance the brass lands from the gas port of a stationary gun and the arc this makes. If you have an essentially even “shotgun pattern” of brass that is in a decent grouping from, say 2:30 to 5:00. You’re just fine.

It’s when you start seeing some brass 2ft from the gun and some brass 10ft from the gun that you need to start asking those questions.

Granted with an LMT enhanced carrier and the Vltor A5 system on my AR15’s, I could simply place a 5 gallon bucket 4-5 feet away and essentially all the brass would be in the bucket, if I were to stand still. Such are the benefits of those systems on the gun.


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[T-Dot]

Just bought my Ti Sentry 7 set screw from SLR for my AR10 build. It’s my 5th or 6th that I own from them. Have installed well over 20 counting my own.

Ejection pattern itself is not a reliable indicator of anything. I would pay much more attention to the distance the brass lands from the gas port of a stationary gun and the arc this makes. If you have an essentially even “shotgun pattern” of brass that is in a decent grouping from, say 2:30 to 5:00. You’re just fine.

It’s when you start seeing some brass 2ft from the gun and some brass 10ft from the gun that you need to start asking those questions.

Interesting. The more I think about it, it makes sense, especially since it's not as if the brass ejects straight away: it's going to bounce around the brass deflector or the ejection port. Thanks for the info, though.

Back to the point of the Omega on the M&P 10: OP, did you happen to see if there was any difference with the brake attachment or without it, in terms of how it gassed the system? I don't know how much effect that would have (Probably pretty minute), but it would interesting to know if that's a substantial variable in the back pressure/gassing at all.

[BufordTJustice]

Interesting. The more I think about it, it makes sense, especially since it's not as if the brass ejects straight away: it's going to bounce around the brass deflector or the ejection port. Thanks for the info, though.

Back to the point of the Omega on the M&P 10: OP, did you happen to see if there was any difference with the brake attachment or without it, in terms of how it gassed the system? I don't know how much effect that would have (Probably pretty minute), but it would interesting to know if that's a substantial variable in the back pressure/gassing at all.

Gun isn't finished yet. But unless the brake has some type of enclosed chamber, like a battle comp or dynacomp or similar designs, there's no mechanism with which to increase system back pressure (an enclosed chamber). Open port brakes (like the lantac dragon, et Al) have negligible, if any, additional back pressure. A flash hider attachment would be equally ineffectual on gas drive.


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[masakari]

So far, the only improvement has been the heavier buffer and spring, but I'm still getting 1-3 stovepipes/brass obstructions per magazine. Brass ejection seems to fluctuate, but I can shoot it again to get specific data on that.
Still looking into the whole adjustable gas block thing. Looking at SLR rifle works and Superlative Arms. Just want to be able to re-pin whatever I get to replace my BCM block.

[BufordTJustice]

So far, the only improvement has been the heavier buffer and spring, but I'm still getting 1-3 stovepipes/brass obstructions per magazine. Brass ejection seems to fluctuate, but I can shoot it again to get specific data on that.
Still looking into the whole adjustable gas block thing. Looking at SLR rifle works and Superlative Arms. Just want to be able to re-pin whatever I get to replace my BCM block.

You're down to gas regulation and chamber dimensions as the remaining issues to address.

SLR blocks have a pre machined ledge/starting point for a pin. Tip: if you want to drill one of their Ti gas blocks, go VERY slow because the titanium work-hardens easily. Also, consider using some 10w-40 motor oil as cutting oil.


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[masakari]

You're down to gas regulation and chamber dimensions as the remaining issues to address.

SLR blocks have a pre machined ledge/starting point for a pin. Tip: if you want to drill one of their Ti gas blocks, go VERY slow because the titanium work-hardens easily. Also, consider using some 10w-40 motor oil as cutting oil.


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Good tip. One issue that I'm evaluating is that since my GB is already pinned, the new pin might not line up with the old hole in the barrel.

[BufordTJustice]

Good tip. One issue that I'm evaluating is that since my GB is already pinned, the new pin might not line up with the old hole in the barrel.

That is usually the case. Pin pin holes rarely coincide. And the hole needs to be drilled with the gas block installed, ideally.

If I were you, I would plan on not being able to replicate the pin hole. However, I've written about other methods for securing the gas block that are just as rugged, if not more so.

SLR makes a .450" hole spacing block that can give you some extra real estate between holes over a std block (which has .400" hole spacing).


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[masakari]

That is usually the case. Pin pin holes rarely coincide. And the hole needs to be drilled with the gas block installed, ideally.

If I were you, I would plan on not being able to replicate the pin hole. However, I've written about other methods for securing the gas block that are just as rugged, if not more so.

SLR makes a .450" hole spacing block that can give you some extra real estate between holes over a std block (which has .400" hole spacing).


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That brings up another point, since my BCM gas block has .460" spacing, should I go with the .450 or .400?