View Full Version : Favorite Lube?
Sparky5019
04-23-10, 16:37
Up to this point I have been using Tufoil and have had ZERO problems but I was just wondering what y'all prefer as far as lube for your carbines. I've always sort of thought that the thinner stuff will go away and leave a carboned up action which would be pretty dry. I use Break Free CLP in everything else and have been very pleased. Have heard some of y'all prefer Break Free LP so all opinion welcome and wanted!!
As always, thanks!
Sparky
ForTehNguyen
04-23-10, 16:48
some people use Mobil 1 synthetic
elnunez11b
04-23-10, 16:52
i like using hops 9. goes on easy and cleans up really nice.
BF CLP as a general purpose lube. BF LP for the bolt and carrier.
On occasion I’ll use Tetra Oil.
Sparky5019
04-23-10, 17:16
Thanks Quib! Keep 'em coming guys...getting a good list here!
Sparky
Wally World synthetic 10W-30. Just ran Tactical Pistol with TigerSwan and all the USP received was the oil. No probs. The 6933 and 6920 run on the 10W-30 as well. No issues. I see no need to pay for any lubricating oil more expensive than this considering how well it has performed in high round count classes.
shittercrewchief
04-23-10, 17:26
slip 2000 EWL
http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html
infidelprodigy
04-23-10, 17:29
Slip 2000 (both the standard and EWL). This stuff is magical for the AR system. It stays even when the gun gets hot, and I've used it from 20-120+ degrees with no issues. It's also environmentally friendly and non-toxic, which is a plus when handling.
I've used 10W30 in a pinch with no problems. Some I know swear by it and it is easily available!!
A very light coat of Royal Purple Synthetic Motor Oil. Never had a hiccup yet. It just smokes a bit when I've used a little too much for high round count days...
First choices: Slip 2000 or EWL
Second: WS CLP
Third: TW25 or Tetra
I'll use BF CLP if it's all that's around. Good contingency CLP, but much better are available.
RemOil and Hoppes are unsat. They are sport/hobby lubes, and perform accordingly.
I recently started using motor oil and noticed a positive difference. It dries slower than other lubes and I've yet to see any downsides. I also keep a small bottle of Weaponshield CLP in my grip if I need an emergency cleaner/lubricant. Love the smell of that stuff!
I like breakfree LP(not CLP) the best out of the few I have tried, but I hate the bottle they put it in.
Blankwaffe
04-23-10, 18:52
My all around go to gun lube is Weapon Shield CLP.Best Ive used to date.
Next favorite is Mil-comm all the various flavors depending on need and application.
Base fall back lube is Break Free CLP and LP(I have a huge amount on hand from two decades of gun oil OCD)
Then after all that I have a six foot tall two door locker full of various gun lubes to include several quarts of LSA.
In a pinch I'll use whatever makes the parts of the gun look wet and slick.
Sparky5019
04-23-10, 19:00
I figured the basic "gun oils" like the RemOil would be poor choices when the gun got hot!
Great responses guys...the list is growing, keep the opinions coming!
Thanks
Sparky
tr1kstanc3
04-23-10, 19:09
I have no problems with the Slip 2000 product line. I use it for cleaning and for lubrication. I used to use Weaponshield which is also great. I prefer non-toxic lubes.
Years ago I bought a Defensive Edge Grail. Sully sent it with a bottle of Slip ewl. I used it and it worked. Last year I went to an EAG class and Pat Rogers gave me a bottle while there. I think there's a reason that the guys who know the platform swear by this stuff. The kinds of guys that see hundreds of thousands or even millions of rounds a year use it. That's a clue to me. They might get it free but if it didn't work they would not use it. It's the onlt lube I use for my firearms other than my precision Remington .308.
RogerinTPA
04-23-10, 20:00
Slip EWL, Old school LSA, and Royal Purple 20W-50/Militec-1 (2/3+1/3 mix), for a while now. RP is as thick as EWL. Haven't noticed hardly any smoke from high round count sessions. I've noticed all three lubes stay put for a long time, at least 800 to 1000 rounds, when generously applied.
MarshallDodge
04-23-10, 20:05
I like Super Lube (http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-multipurpose-grease-ez-49.htm) for bolts, slides, etc.
I also like Weapon Shield CLP for a good general purpose lube or for really cold weather.
Bug Juice for me. I used 10w fully synthetic diesel engine oil instead of mobil 1 for my base.
I like Super Lube (http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-multipurpose-grease-ez-49.htm) for bolts, slides, etc.
I also like Weapon Shield CLP for a good general purpose lube or for really cold weather.
Marshall, I viewed the link you posted. Looks interesting. Is it really that much more slick than regular gun lube?
Any reason you chose that over the High Temp stuff?
My Favorite...... lube that's free...
I don't get wrapped on what to use.. just where to use it...how much to use and when....
eternal24k
04-23-10, 20:59
I use a mix of magna-lube (got a few tubes free) grease and EWL for bolt faces and pistol rails. Everything else I use Spectro Platinum 10w-50 synthetic, simply because I have extra after every oil change on my bike. If I were to buy, I would save a few bucks and get the Mobil1
Slip 2000 EWL on my Rifles and pistols
MilComm TW25 on my pistol's rails
I've been pleased with Slip products for the past few years, with a little CLP in the mix.
I use wheel bearing grease and Mobil 1. Maybe a little overkill using the them together, but it works well for me in high round count shooting.
m1a_scoutguy
04-23-10, 23:41
I've used alot of lubes,,but have settled on Machine Gun Lube,,I get it from LaRue Tactical !!! I received a small sample bottle with a order and liked it so much I bought a big bottle of it !! Great lube,,sticks and stays where ya put it. I have used it in all weather,,from Hot Humid weather to 15/20 degrees in the winter with great results !! :) Good stuff.
Hello all, about 25 years ago a friend of mine, who was an Armour Sargent at the time. was told by the DOD to dispose of all the mil-clp that they were using. because it contained white lead and there for was against EPA guide lines. Well a pallet of this great stuff that the military had been using for years and was no longer SAFE TO USE! was disposed of to about a half of dozen of us joe's and listed as destroyed .Anyway I've never had any problems with it and it cleans up easily after shooting. The only problem is you have to not forget to shake it good because the lead settles to the bottom of the jug and it looses its properties. just my experience . ;) Patriot
Jay Cunningham
04-24-10, 09:01
Whatever is free.
I use SLIP EWL. It is simply slicker than snot, and you can feel the difference in many guns just working the action. It also does not gum up like the FP-10 I used for a while (it turns green and hardens into a laquer that actually glues parts in place....bad, very bad....). I had used Break-Free and LSA for years prior. Nothing is as good as SLIP in my opinion. Top notch company as well.
MarshallDodge
04-24-10, 09:24
Marshall, I viewed the link you posted. Looks interesting. Is it really that much more slick than regular gun lube?
Any reason you chose that over the High Temp stuff?
My experience with lubes is pretty limited. I tend to find something I like and stick with it. Wilson Ultima Lube was my favorite for many years, then I went to WeaponShield CLP which I still like, and now Super Lube. I have not compared Super Lube grease to WeaponShield grease and would like to if I had the opportunity. Another lube I have been playing with is Slipstream (http://www.crusaderweaponry.com/main.php?view=slipstream). The grease is too thick for my taste but the oil is thin and whatever is in it makes it super slick. I put it on the triggers of some of my guns and saw an instant reduction in pull weight.
I was turned on to Super Lube by a local IPSC shooter who runs it on his 2011. He shoots a lot of ammo and swears by this stuff. He said that most of the guys he shoots with use this or Mobil 1.
I picked up a 4oz. tube of Super Lube and found it to be as good as he said it would be. Some of the lubes I have tried get thick and gummy or are thin and are disappear after a while but this stuff stays put without any of the usual issues. I just use a q-tip and apply it on all the contact points till they look "wet". The viscosity is not thick like bearing grease, etc. so you can put it on thin and not worry about it clogging up the gun.
Weaponshield has kept mine pretty clean. Works great in my .22 upper as well. As soon as I use my bottle up I will be using synthetic motor oil, unless I get something else for free.
Blankwaffe
04-24-10, 13:59
My experience with lubes is pretty limited. I tend to find something I like and stick with it. Wilson Ultima Lube was my favorite for many years, then I went to WeaponShield CLP which I still like, and now Super Lube. I have not compared Super Lube grease to WeaponShield grease and would like to if I had the opportunity. Another lube I have been playing with is Slipstream (http://www.crusaderweaponry.com/main.php?view=slipstream). The grease is too thick for my taste but the oil is thin and whatever is in it makes it super slick. I put it on the triggers of some of my guns and saw an instant reduction in pull weight.
I was turned on to Super Lube by a local IPSC shooter who runs it on his 2011. He shoots a lot of ammo and swears by this stuff. He said that most of the guys he shoots with use this or Mobil 1.
I picked up a 4oz. tube of Super Lube and found it to be as good as he said it would be. Some of the lubes I have tried get thick and gummy or are thin and are disappear after a while but this stuff stays put without any of the usual issues. I just use a q-tip and apply it on all the contact points till they look "wet". The viscosity is not thick like bearing grease, etc. so you can put it on thin and not worry about it clogging up the gun.
Ive only used the Super Lube on breech plugs of inline muzzleloaders as it was supplied in sample form from the manufacturers(namely Knight and TC)with the rifles.It seems good for that application,otherwise my experience is limited.
Only real complaints Ive seen on the Super Lube was from Romulus/Pat at 1911.com in that he had the Super Lube turn to brown/green gummy balls when used with Break Free CLP on the same weapon.I believe he was using the CLP as a floater.Its been awhile but thats the details I remember and worth noting.Otherwise Ive not seen many comments on the Superlube beyond muzzleloaders.
As far as comparison with the Weapon Shield grease...the Weapon Shield grease is a bit lighter viscosity and more of a cream in comparison,which can be applied with a brush...much better all purpose pistol grease IMHO.
Other than the Weapon Shield Grease,the only true weapons grade greases Ive used that performed well on handguns for me has been Tetra Gun Grease and TW25B.IMHO the Weapon Shield has the best viscosity and overall performance.Has performed exceptionally well on the aluminum framed autos like my SIG's and Beretta's.
For the AR's my preference is Weapon Shield CLP or Break Free CLP and/or LP.
HTH
Sparky5019
04-24-10, 14:13
Guys,
I have to say that this seems to be a great thread that is yeilding great, positive suggestions and conversations! Keep it up! My real intent was to see how varied y'all's choices were and it was a windfall!:D
Sparky
Robb Jensen
04-24-10, 14:16
Whatever is free.
Yes! Free-90-free is the best.
I like lubes in this order:
WeaponShield
Militec-1
Slip2000 EWL
10-8 Machinegunners lube
Slip2000 gun lube
Shooters Choice FP10 lube
Breakfree CLP
Everything else
Jay Cunningham
04-24-10, 14:34
Free WeaponShield is by far the best. ;)
kaltesherz
04-24-10, 15:03
I got a bit of Mil-Tec for free at work and over the years has performed well in my M4. I'd love to try Slip2000'S products but can't justify having to pay for it when I've got so much free stuff lying around.
mobile one or rem oil which ever is handy
JeepDriver
04-24-10, 15:57
Mobil 1 or Mil-Tec
I use Mil-Tec when out at the range only because I have a bunch of the small 1oz bottles and they are in every range bag.
Mobil 1 for lubeing after cleaning at home.
Free WeaponShield is by far the best. ;)
some call that having your cake and eating it too...
FYI, weapon shield allowed me to only wipe down the .22 upper I used today... Hoppes in the past made cleaning it work.
+1 for high temperature wheel bearing grease. Stays put in all even after running 7 mags in succession.
$3 for a pound, can't beat that
Thanks Marshall! Will definitely be giving SuperLube a try.
With the actual differences in viscosity as well as our own preferences, anyone ever try thinning out grease with oil or something?
Actually, synthetic ATF+4 is on my rifle right now. Thinner than the 10W30 or other motor oil but doesn't dry up like the lighter lubes. Has worked well for some light range work, but I honestly haven't had a chance to run it hard yet.
If you have a spare bottle, might want to try some. YMMV.
I will start by saying there really isn't a bad choice here. The fact is to use a lube and if your going to shoot over 300 rounds in one day squirt a drop on the holes in the bolt and the lugs because it burns off.
My favorite lube for moving parts is Breakfree LP. It's a hair thicker than the other guys.
I like Breakfree CLP for the inside of the barrel to protect it and clean out anything the Bore solvant missed.
Rem Oil has it's use. I like this oil for .22's as the parts are smaller and finer and for the Bolts of Bolt action rifles. It's a thinner oil.
I have also used this oil to clean some of my friends new .22's that are made with plastic and alumnium. Rem oil will clean and not hurt plastic.
On the outside of the gun to protect from Rust and fingerprints. I like Birchwood casey Barricade ( Formerly known as Sheath),
A quick mist and a wipe with a clean rag and the gun stays better than new. The guns in the vault also get a recoat every 6 months to a year.
I recently got some samples of Machine Gunners lube, Slip 2000 EWL, and Weapon Sheild CLP. All seem thinner and seam to run more than Breakfee LP. But I plan to test them more.
The key is to use a lube. I have a friend that used to run his guns almost bone dry. I got him to start using lube and his gun are much more reliable now.
I will start by saying there really isn't a bad choice here. The fact is to use a lube and if your going to shoot over 300 rounds in one day squirt a drop on the holes in the bolt and the lugs because it burns off.
My favorite lube for moving parts is Breakfree LP. It's a hair thicker than the other guys.
I like Breakfree CLP for the inside of the barrel to protect it and clean out anything the Bore solvant missed.
Rem Oil has it's use. I like this oil for .22's as the parts are smaller and finer and for the Bolts of Bolt action rifles. It's a thinner oil.
I have also used this oil to clean some of my friends new .22's that are made with plastic and alumnium. Rem oil will clean and not hurt plastic.
On the outside of the gun to protect from Rust and fingerprints. I like Birchwood casey Barricade ( Formerly known as Sheath),
A quick mist and a wipe with a clean rag and the gun stays better than new. The guns in the vault also get a recoat every 6 months to a year.
I recently got some samples of Machine Gunners lube, Slip 2000 EWL, and Weapon Sheild CLP. All seem thinner and seam to run more than Breakfee LP. But I plan to test them more.
The key is to use a lube. I have a friend that used to run his guns almost bone dry. I got him to start using lube and his gun are much more reliable now.
As I mentioned previously, I use BF CLP and BF LP myself. LP exclusively on the bolt and carrier. I have nothing official, only my personal observations during cleaning, but I’ve noticed that the LP leaves far less carbon behind verses the CLP.
Have you experienced similar utilizing BF LP?
Breakfree for most of my weapons works just fine.
I have to say several moths ago I read a magazine article comparing several popular gun lubes, and a few were found to contain water. ( I cant remember the magazine but I will look for it).
After reading several posts from members suggesting synthetic motor oil, I gave it a try, and I’m please. I have used the following spray on lubes, Break free, Lithium grease, Silicone, Moly Lube, WD 40, Rem Oil, and so on. I have to say synthetic motor oil works as well, and costs less. Cheaper costs allow for generous use of lube. Next I would like to try wheel bearing grease which several guys have suggested. Sounds like a great idea when I think about it. IMO, the Moly lube is expensive and to me looks like carbon fouling, lithium grease worked well for long term storage. I tried it on a WASR & WASR mags, and it worked well.
Sorry, not to hijack, what about cleaners/degreasers? I read about brake cleaners but not too sure since ARs have plastic/polymer parts?
Carbine and Glocks- Slide Glide, a tenacious light synthetic grease. Doesn't run or burn off, easy to clean. Probably not a good choice for middle east dusty conditions, but fine for VA.
MP
I haven't noticed about less carbon build up. Last week I cleaned two AR's and I tried your method with the Breakfree Foam. Made cleaning a snap. I do miss the Hoppes #9 smell.
I haven't noticed about less carbon build up. Last week I cleaned two AR's and I tried your method with the Breakfree Foam. Made cleaning a snap. I do miss the Hoppes #9 smell.
Thanks for the follow-up. :)
EzGoingKev
04-25-10, 16:46
For a rifle that is going to sit a long time in a safe I like to use a special light weight grease type lube. I find it stays put and doesn't run all down the charging handle and seam between the upper and lower receiver.
When shooting I have a little tube of oil that I keep in the grip as it is easier to squeeze on.
bubabootie
04-25-10, 16:58
i like using hops 9. goes on easy and cleans up really nice.
+1
I hate CLP. All that crap does is act like a magnet for dirt and grime. My bolt in Iraq hasn't seen CLP once this whole deployment
Break Free CLP
Corrosion X
and
Slip 2000 EWL
I've had good results with TW25B.
I still have a bunch of Militec-1 leftover from a deployment. Otherwise, BF CLP is the old standby.
I use stuff called "Tri-Flow". It's got teflon in suspension, I don't know if that's good or bad. You do have to remember to shake it first. I do know that it's worked well in every firearm I own. I thought that maybe I never ran a gun hard enough to show it's weakness, but it performed well at a 3 day Magpul carbine class.
Just my .02
I use stuff called "Tri-Flow". It's got teflon in suspension, I don't know if that's good or bad. You do have to remember to shake it first. I do know that it's worked well in every firearm I own. I thought that maybe I never ran a gun hard enough to show it's weakness, but it performed well at a 3 day Magpul carbine class.
Just my .02
I used to use Tri-Flow on my mountain bike chain back in the day. Worked well.
I used to use Tri-Flow on my mountain bike chain back in the day. Worked well.
That's how I found it. Then I saw the picture of a firearm on the label and thought, what the heck. If it works in the heat of the New Mexico desert, it might stand up. So far, it has.
Pathfinder Ops
04-27-10, 17:04
Mobile1 0W/40
I'm not oil scientist and all but somebody once said that if it allows my motor to start at really cold/ hot temps and run at higher temps than my gun will ever see for 5000 miles, then its good enough to put on my gun.
Now I realize there is a lot more to "lube" than that over simplified statement but it makes sense to me that my F250 runs harder, hotter and for longer durations than my AR ever will.
I've been using it for a few years now and it's working for me.
Oh and go here for some science:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=42975
Read through there is actually some good data on why the Mobile1 topic is taken seriously
Slip 2000 EWL for AR Bolts.
Ballistol for the FALs, especially the gas system parts.
SpookyPistolero
04-27-10, 22:48
KY jelly for me. I tried Astroglide once, but it's just not the same.
Wait... what?
Sparky5019
04-28-10, 15:25
Nah, KY and Astroglide are water based and break down too soon then they get sticky...for amateurs. What ya need to get is Eros Body Glide! Now THAT is silicone based and will keep your gun running for a LONG time!! ;). Your BC can be flying back and forth with no fear of becoming sluggish or jamming!!;)
Sparky
shittercrewchief
04-28-10, 16:27
Nah, KY and Astroglide are water based and break down too soon then they get sticky...for amateurs. What ya need to get is Eros Body Glide! Now THAT is silicone based and will keep your gun running for a LONG time!! ;). Your BC can be flying back and forth with no fear of becoming sluggish or jamming!!;)
Wouldn't want a Failure to Feed either.
Walmart brand wheel bearing grease.
I like Mobil 1
I used it two weekends ago on my BCM carbine. I ran about 150-180 rnds of m855 and m193 through it shooting steel.
As of today the bolt still looks like it has some oil on it. Not bad in my opinion....
Carne Frio
04-29-10, 15:47
Nah, KY and Astroglide are water based and break down too soon then they get sticky...for amateurs. What ya need to get is Eros Body Glide! Now THAT is silicone based and will keep your gun running for a LONG time!! ;). Your BC can be flying back and forth with no fear of becoming sluggish or jamming!!;)
Sparky
This smells better:
http://pix.motivatedphotos.com/2009/4/6/633746588860669986-Lubricant.jpg
G34Shooter
04-29-10, 23:26
Free or paid for Weaponshield CLP and Grease
Jay Cunningham
04-29-10, 23:29
Walmart brand wheel bearing grease.
Why? And on which parts do you apply this lube?
I'm all about knowing what else is out there and having contingency plans. Nonetheless, with the amount of GTG lubes and gun care products out there at reasonable prices, I'm left scratching at my head at the use of all the non-gun products. Wheel bearing grease? Really? Why??
Sparky5019
04-30-10, 08:11
Chief & Frio,
Yes, FTF is BAD!!
It's BACON!!!!
Sparky
I use Eezox on my 1911's, revolvers, bolt guns, and ARs. I was a little skeptical at first about using it on the ARs because it dries in a few minutes and I wasn't sure it would provide adequate lubrication. Not only does it lube well, it's a great rust inhibitor. If you use no other cleaning or lube products, it makes cleaning easier each time you use it. I'm not crazy about the smell of it, but trust me, it works!
just a scout
05-01-10, 20:49
I'm grooving on gunzilla right now. Have a new BCM Middy, ran about 400 rounds through it without a problem. Olied/cleaned it beforehand, easy cleaning afterwards.
m1a_scoutguy
05-01-10, 20:54
I'm grooving on gunzilla right now. Have a new BCM Middy, ran about 400 rounds through it without a problem. Olied/cleaned it beforehand, easy cleaning afterwards.
Hmmmmm,I had just bought some Gunzilla cleaner stuff,,,,works pretty good at that,,but haven't tried the Lube yet !!!
I used CLP on my AR's until lately. I still use it to wipe down and such because there are several "tests" and CLP is always one of the top three oils for rust protection.
When I bought my last AR a few months ago, I asked the manufacturer what lube they recommended and they said "KG-4". I've been using it for a few months. Haven't had any problems without cleaning over 650 rounds. Lube it with KG-4 about every 250-300 rounds. This is my new AR lube.
For lubricating grease I used TW25B. Pistol slides, triggers, etc.
For serious rust protection, I use "Grease, Rifle" Army Surplus stuff that was made the same month JFK was shot-11/63. I use a toothbrush spread it on thick and then wipe it off. Like most grease, it is impossible to wipe off and will leave a fine film. I'm on my third can (I opened my last can last year) and have been using this grease for 30+ years. I've hunted in salt water marshes, swamps, in the rain, etc. and it protects like magic. Good luck on finding some but if you do, its great for rust protection.
Tri-Flow is good for delicate fine mechanisms. When it first came out it was called Tri-Flon and DuPont made them change their name.
That's all I know...
Skunkworks
05-01-10, 22:27
Slip 2000 EWL (extreme weapons lube )
So I was out at my buddy's place with some friends sending some rounds down range and he turned me on to a fairly new product from a former US Navy Seal. It's called, you guessed it, FROG LUBE! This stuff is biodegradable and is a CPL that is absorbed into the pores of the metal. You apply it and wipe off the excess and as the metal warms up, for lack of a better term, it "leaches" to the surface in a sort of "Wet" state. It calims that it will increase velocity and tighten shot groups when the bore has been treated! It comes in a liquid and a paste for use in places like glide points and contact points. It claims that carbon won't stick and cleaning is a breeze once treated. It also has a pleasant odor of pepermint so you can wash your shop towels right along with your clothes without the wife coming unglued!
I haven't got to try it out yet but I'll post again when I have results.
You can check it out at www.froglube.com.
+ 1 for Militec and TW25B...
AND Eros Body Glide.:eek:
Does anyone know what lubricant/protectant BCM ships their uppers with? I found that smell amazing for some reason, and have been curious as to what it was.
Blankwaffe
05-23-10, 23:52
Does anyone know what lubricant/protectant BCM ships their uppers with? I found that smell amazing for some reason, and have been curious as to what it was.
Seems like I remember Paul saying they used G96 in the shop as a GP protectant and lube.To me it kinda smells like the Doublebubble chewing gum.
Why? And on which parts do you apply this lube?
I put it on the BCG. When I train and shoot an excess of 1K rds a day if I used lube it would just get hot and run off. High temp grease will not. I was told about this from james yeager.
In a lot of the training classes/ training secession their are always people relubing their guns on break, not me;)
Heavy Metal
05-25-10, 17:03
Seems like I remember Paul saying they used G96 in the shop as a GP protectant and lube.To me it kinda smells like the Doublebubble chewing gum.
G-96 + BF CLP=Glue.
If you are using G-96, since it is plasticizer based (and an outstanding extreme cold weather lube), do not use anything else with it.
GermanSynergy
05-25-10, 19:58
I use LaRue's Machinegun lube on all of my firearms and can't say enough good things about it. Simply awesome!
Blankwaffe
05-25-10, 20:10
G-96 + BF CLP=Glue.
If you are using G-96, since it is plasticizer based (and an outstanding extreme cold weather lube), do not use anything else with it.
Never used the G96 personally...was just commenting on the smell of the BCM uppers and what I somewhat remember reading on which lube BCM used in the shop.
I primarily only use Weapon Shield or Mil-comm products.
Thanks for the warning though,I'll make a note on that.
While working for TACOM supporting troops at Corp/Div/Bgd levels in SWA, in Germany & at Ft Hood, TX, us LAR's suggested TW25B. It works on all small arms and crew served weapons used by the Army. Trust me, it works.
As for me I have tried them all. I have found Militec-1 to me the best as of yet. Slip 2000 EWL is a close second, however I noticed that when setting for a long time on my weapons the excess lube formed a sluge. The sludge was hard to remove and Im not sure if I got a bad batch of slip 2000 or if this is common when over lubed.
emfourbinator
05-29-10, 11:16
For two years now, it's been Castrol Syntech 20w50, especially in
the hotter weather. Come next winter, be back to the same stuff
in 5w20. No issues yet, and slick as all get out! :)
old grunt usmc
03-25-11, 17:01
Well as one of the older fella's here....lol,i've tried a lot of diffrent things,like hilco lube,hoppe's,OUTERS,MCM.Breakfree was in my book as the best,i used it in the marine's on my M16A1 and loved it.Even firing blanks on auto and no jams.Now that being said i will try froglube and see.
EWL. Seems to work well when used generously.
For storage, Arexons Svitol Marine lube. This is an industrial grade high pressure synthetic lube that stands up very well to salt air. I get this in Italy.
Magic_Salad0892
03-25-11, 17:18
TW25B, or Slip EWL 30 grease.
Terlingueno
03-25-11, 18:34
Breakfree CLP and a dab or two of Lubriplate 130-A on the AR's
Aeroshell Fluid 18 on the AK's
militarymoron
03-25-11, 18:45
anyone here tried frog lube?
philipeggo
03-25-11, 18:49
I was curious about this too , i just bought a similar bio product from PSA and am waiting for it to come in http://palmettostatearmory.com/679.php
anyone here tried frog lube?
anyone here tried frog lube?
I haven't but it sounds similar to the above referenced Lubriplate.
I'm gonna give some a go.
I've searched and found corrosion tests that show Corrosion X, Eezox and Breakfree do pretty good. I haven't found any comparison test results for the lubrication and durability aspects of different lubricants however. Is one out there and I just missed it?
snackgunner
03-25-11, 19:15
slip 2000 EWL
http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html
Is there anywhere else to buy this stuff from?
I was going to order just a 1 Oz. bottle, but the shipping cost more than the bottle.
bsmith_shoot
03-25-11, 19:15
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5w-30. In the hotter parts of summer I use high-temp grease. I clean with Breakfree CLP and Breakfree Powder Blast.
anyone here tried frog lube?
I had frog lube on my AR at the last shoot and went 400 rounds with no fails and no re-lubing. Previously, my lightly oil lubed AR's required more oil at around 300 rounds.
I have it on my duty Glocks and Benelli M4 for a couple months now with decent firing schedules and no issues.
And they smell minty fresh!
Dennis.
Would there be a problem with putting hi-temp wheel bearing grease on the carrier rails? (light film)
Would there be a problem with putting hi-temp wheel bearing grease on the carrier rails? (light film)
Only if you're expecting really cold weather. Otherwise, grease her up.
Lately, I've been using synthetic motor oil thickened with some blue bottle STP.
old grunt usmc
03-25-11, 20:51
Check out froglube on you tube,there's some test on there and on froglube website.
Big fan of WeaponShield. Stays where you put it, does a good job for lubing, and cleans up really well. Technically a CLP but I use it as my primary lube and have been pleased with it.
ostrobothnian
03-26-11, 05:06
http://www.gunslick.com/products/chemicals/lubricants_oils/ultralube.aspx
Works great. Seems to provide less friction on 1911 slides, AR bolts/carriers and FAL bolt/carriers.
I figure I spent good $ on my firearms so why "cheapen up" when it comes to lube. The cost difference is probably cheaper than the cost of a full magazine worth of ammo.
Needless to say I don't run straight 50w Wolfs Head brand in my cars either. It does seem Mobil 1 would do the job just fine in a firearm application though. We'll cross that bridge when and IF ever we come across it.
FWIW. NADA.
Weaponshield and Slip2000 EWL are the ones I use. I still ocassionally use Militec and the LAV endorses it in his latest DVD's.
Big fan of WeaponShield. Stays where you put it, does a good job for lubing, and cleans up really well. Technically a CLP but I use it as my primary lube and have been pleased with it.
Weaponshield here, too, since it also cleans well. But if I did a multi-thousand round weekend, I might switch to Larue Machine Gunners Lube. I keep wondering what BCM lubes up their BCGs with...that seems to be pretty darn good.
I found this awhile back...
fwiw...http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
The KAC manual says CLP and ArmaLite Tech Note #29 backs that up. Seems like its working so far.
anyone here tried frog lube?
==================================
Last week, my nephew in MARSOC, who is somewhere in SE Asia, requested I send him the Frog Lube Paste. I'll order him some Monday and ship it to him, along with the crayons and coloring books he asked for. BTW, he said the coloring book stuff is for the local kids??:rolleyes:
Never heard of Frog Lube before his request.
.
I use Weapon Shield, stuff is great.
El Pistolero
03-26-11, 21:05
I may have to try Slip 2000 EWL when I get back. I've always used synthetic ATF with great results and it doesn't burn/dry off as fast as CLP or others I've used.
I use Militec right now and like it a lot. Would like to try the Slip 2000EWL though.
GLOCKMASTER
03-27-11, 08:36
I'm currently using Mobile 1 Synthetic 0W-20 in a Brownell's flip-top spout bottle (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1199/Product/FLIP_TOP_SPOUT_BOTTLE). It's cheap, readily available and it works.
Nightvisionary
03-27-11, 08:39
Mobil 1 synthetic here. Cheap and it works.
Bye far the best I've used, Slip2000 EWL...........
That Grant Cunningham (http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html) page is a great reference when it comes to the practical aspects of firearms lubrication. This particular quote is especially insightful even if it ought to be self-evident:
"Let's be clear: there are no "new", "revolutionary" lubricant products made for firearms. That's a flat statement, and it's intended to be. All of the lubricants, bases, and additives of suitable use are already well known to the lubricant industry. Specific combinations might be unique, but it's all been tried before - if not necessarily on guns."
In the last 15 years of my LE, SWAT, and competitive shooting experiences, I have never once had an "Ah-HA!" or "Eureka!" moment when it came to a particular lubricant brand name or manufacturer. There was never a time that using a particular lubricant resulted in extra-special or superior performance from my weapons that had not been previously experienced; including some intense schools where I fired approximately 5K to 6K rounds through my rifle in 5 days.
I admit that I did have a bit of an epiphany about 5 years ago while reading another oil thread on a motorcycle website where a petrochemical engineer posted some facts and testing data regarding oils (don't have that URL available anymore). After following up with some other petrochemical SME's, I learned that most of the lubricants we use for guns and motorcycles are neither special nor exotic, no matter what creative names are printed on the bottles. In many cases, we pay enormous markups for "specialty" lubricants in small containers that is literally the same stuff we purchase by the quart or gallon under different names and for much less money. In other cases, we pay a lot for specialty oils in small bottles that can be had for much less money and in larger bottles from industrial or machine-shop supply houses. Many of us don't like to hear that and such statements have inspired more than a few heated "oil threads" on both firearms and motorcycle forums.
I have used all of the standard stuff common to LE/MIL units and I have used some of the "fancy" mix-it-yourself concoctions. I have also used various synthetic motor oils (both for cars and motorcycles). They all worked just fine.
These days, I use a mixture of 95% Royal Purple 10W-30 synthetic motor oil and 5% Slick 50 (for real...I measure it). It gives me a whole lotta high-quality lubricant for a very low price.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41XjZK3oa2L.jpg
http://www.griffiths.co.nz/images2/engine_treatment.jpg
If you're one of the guys who uses Slick 50 to duplicate some of the more expensive gun lubricants, don't use much at all....a little PTFE (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene) goes a long, long way.
USMC_0317_SS
03-27-11, 14:34
http://www.outdoorsupplies.co.nz/Hoppes_lubeoil.jpg
This stuff works realy well. I have used it on all of my personal weapon systems as well as all of my issued military weapons from M40A3 and A5, M9 Service Pistol M4, M249 and M203. I have personally used it down to 5*F and upto 136*F, both in Iraq and Afghanistan. It is real thick and it "floats" the carbon and debris instead of it hardening on your bolt.
This is the only stuff I use and it has practically eliminated stoppages. Makes M249 SAW run realy well.
Respectfully,
USMC_0317_SS
DirectDrive
03-27-11, 15:39
It's good to know that Hoppes products are still helping to keep our troops safe out there.
So many new lubricants, now.
To this day, the smell of Hoppes #9 brings back memories of hunting with the ol' man.
Thanks and stay safe, Marine.
Was recommended Froglube by someone who was well in the know . . . I haven't looked back since.
I have only used CLP but this thread is making me consider trying new things...
I found this awhile back...
fwiw...http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
This is actually a pretty good article.
I use Mobile 1 or Amsoil. Maybe I should even go so far and try one of the Lucas Oil Products Inc. Specialty Lubricants(?)
Okay, I placed an order for that FrogLube mentioned above; one each of the 4 ounce Liquid and Paste. They say it's safe for humans and possibly could be "eaten," but recommended not to do so. Will see how goes it.
MRevolutionIX
03-27-11, 19:55
I have been using Shooter's Choice FP10 and dabs of Gunslick graphite grease on "high wear" areas on all my systems and have zero complaints. Great stuff and is easily found.
philipeggo
03-27-11, 21:01
Let us know how that frog lube works. i ordered a similar product and im waiting for it to come in.
I use Mobile 1 or Amsoil. Maybe I should even go so far and try one of the Lucas Oil Products Inc. Specialty Lubricants(?)
Okay, I placed an order for that FrogLube mentioned above; one each of the 4 ounce Liquid and Paste. They say it's safe for humans and possibly could be "eaten," but recommended not to do so. Will see how goes it.
Frog Lube sounds interesting. One of my dept guys apparently is a distributor for it. I'll see if I can get a T&E sample.
I like Break Free for cleaning and lube. In deep winter I was told to use Mobile1 15W50. I have yet to try the mobile1, but my Break Free has yet to give me issues in extreme cold. Everything goes bang when the trigger is pulled, even in sub 0 temps.
I use Mobile 1 or Amsoil. Maybe I should even go so far and try one of the Lucas Oil Products Inc. Specialty Lubricants(?)
Okay, I placed an order for that FrogLube mentioned above; one each of the 4 ounce Liquid and Paste. They say it's safe for humans and possibly could be "eaten," but recommended not to do so. Will see how goes it.
You're gonna eat it?????
Just kidding. This stuff sounds interesting, where are you guys getting this froglube?
Oh, and I saw an ad for a new gun lube in a products magazine at the PD, and can't for the life of me, remember what the name was....it was touted as going on wet, and penetrating and drying to a nice, super slick dry lubricant. It was in a small squeeze bottle with a pointed aplicator tip, I think. I know, everbody rags on dry lubes, but I don't like my duty rifle (or pistol) dripping wet with oil. Oily guns and ammo that have to sit in them for long periods of time are a no go for me. I have seen duds on qualification day, most likely caused by oil-killed primers. On range days, yes, I soak them, but in the patrol car, they can't be dripping wet. Anyone know what this new lube might have been? I might recognize the name if I heard it.
I use Mobile 1 or Amsoil. Maybe I should even go so far and try one of the Lucas Oil Products Inc. Specialty Lubricants(?)
Okay, I placed an order for that FrogLube mentioned above; one each of the 4 ounce Liquid and Paste. They say it's safe for humans and possibly could be "eaten," but recommended not to do so. Will see how goes it.
If you got kids or pets, you'll probaly want to keep this away from them. FrogLube smells like mint!
philipeggo
03-28-11, 21:38
Any fellow floridians ever use this stuff ? http://www.bdsuperlube.com/
http://www.bdsuperlube.com/2-pack-16oz-bds-super-lube-pi-4.html
wetidlerjr
03-29-11, 03:33
Mobil One and synthetic bearing grease. Works great for much less than the so-called "gun oils".
:D
devildogljb
03-29-11, 03:48
Slip 2000 for me, i also run a gun grease
Any fellow floridians ever use this stuff ? http://www.bdsuperlube.com/
http://www.bdsuperlube.com/2-pack-16oz-bds-super-lube-pi-4.html
I'm interested to hear if anyone has used it.................... gotta love the name! ;)
philipeggo
03-29-11, 09:43
LOL My point exactly
I'm interested to hear if anyone has used it.................... gotta love the name! ;)
Okay, this arrived today:
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/FrogLube.jpg
Smells like Methylsalicylate/Menthol (BenGay). Haven't "tasted" it yet. :p Anyways, here's an excerpt:
"It. . .will clean & moisturize skin." Hmmm. . .
Will see how it "performs" as it's intended.
Mostly I use Mobil 1 with a hint of Slick 50 in it.
I do like Otis Tech Dry Lube too.
I've used Hoppes 9, WD40, SW014, One Shot, Remmy DriLube, Otis Tech and all kinds of Motor oils.
I do keep some WD40 in my range bag just in case. In case of what? No idea.
Ok, I have been holding back on this topic for a while but I will say what I have to say. I wouldn't go near any of my rifles or guns with motor oil, forget WD40! motor oil is just that, MOTOR OIL (engine oil),which contains additives and detergents for CAR ENGINES. I am in no way an expert on this topic but the only way I would use a lube like motor oil is if I was in a situation where I had no other choice to keep it lubed. Just my honest opinion. Any chemists want to chime in and possibly convince me otherwise?
Break free CLP and Slip 2000 EWL for the most part. Grease on specific applications.
Ok, I have been holding back on this topic for a while but I will say what I have to say. I wouldn't go near any of my rifles or guns with motor oil, forget WD40! motor oil is just that, MOTOR OIL (engine oil),which contains additives and detergents for CAR ENGINES. I am in no way an expert on this topic but the only way I would use a lube like motor oil is if I was in a situation where I had no other choice to keep it lubed. Just my honest opinion. Any chemists want to chime in and possibly convince me otherwise?
Break free CLP and Slip 2000 EWL for the most part. Grease on specific applications.
Reciprocation metal parts is reciprocation metal parts. The motor oils out there are designed to work in much tougher conditions than a gun.
Not wanting to rewrite any of this myself, you must look at what the oils are designed to protect against, not where the bottle says it goes. Here is a good summary:
Since Mobil 1 is subjected to such extreme conditions (in terms of thermal stress, oxidation and pressure) inside of an internal combustion engine, it appears that it should possess both adequate film and barrier strength to serve as a small arms lubricant.
The criteria that these lubricants were evaluated by are:
1. Pour Point (P/P): The lowest temperature (in degrees F) at which the lubricant will flow within a specified timeframe.
Minimum requirement: -50 F
2. Flash Point (F/P): The lowest temperature (in degrees F) at which the lubricant will produce vapors that, if subjected to an ignition source, will ignite and combust.
Minimum requirement: +450 F
3. Viscosity at 100 F (V/100): The viscosity (in centistokes) of the lubricant at 100 F.
Minimum requirement: 40.00 cSt
4. Viscosity at 212 F (V/212): The viscosity of the lubricant (in centistokes) at 212 F.
Minimum requirement: 8.00 cSt
As a point of reference, the kinematic viscosity of pure water at:
68 F (room temperature) is 1.004 cSt
100 F is 0.658 cSt
212 F is 0.294 cSt
5. Transient Operating Range (TOR): The sum of the absolute values of the Pour Point (P/P) and the Flash Point (F/P).
Minimum requirement: 500 F
6. Viscosity Index (VI): An arbitrary numerical value assigned to a lubricant indicating its ability to retain its viscosity across a specified temperature range.
Minimum requirement: 110 (Very High)
Low VI: 35 or lower
Medium VI: 35-80
High VI: 80-110
Very High VI: 110 or higher
Data for Mobil 1 Synthetic Lubricants:
0W20
P/P: -70.6 F
F/P: +449.6 F
V/100: 43.0 cSt
V/212: 8.4 cSt
TOR: 520.2 F
VI: 176
0W30
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +456.8 F
V/100: 63.1 cSt
V/212: 11.0 cSt
TOR: 522.0 F
VI: 169
0W40
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +456.8 F
V/100: 80.0 cSt
V/212: 14.3 cSt
TOR: 522.0 F
VI:188
5W20
P/P: -52.6 F
F/P: +442.4 F
V/100: 48.3 cSt
V/212: 8.8 cSt
TOR: 495.0 F
VI: 164
5W30
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +446.0 F
V/100: 64.8 cSt
V/212: 11.3 cSt
TOR: 511.2 F
VI: 171
5W40
P/P: -49.0 F
F/P: +438.8 F
V/100: 102.0 cSt
V/212: 14.8 cSt
TOR: 487.8 F
VI: 152
5W50
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +456.8 F
V/100: 104.9 cSt
V/212: 17.5 cSt
TOR: 522.0 F
VI: 184
10W30
P/P: -49.0 F
F/P: +453.2 F
V/100: 62.0 cSt
V/212: 10.0 cSt
TOR: 484.2 F
VI: 148
10W40 (MX4T)
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +487.4 F
V/100: 86.0 cSt
V/212: 13.8 cSt
TOR: 552.6 F
VI: 166
15W50
P/P: -49.0 F
F/P: +446.0 F
V/100: 125.0 cSt
V/212: 17.4 cSt
TOR: 495.0 F
VI: 153
20W50 (VTWIN)
P/P: -59.8 F
F/P: +518.0 F
V/100: 130.0 cSt
V/212: 17.7 cSt
TOR: 577.8 F
VI: 151
75W90
P/P: -50.8 F
F/P: +347.0 F
V/100: 106.0 cSt
V/212: 15.2 cSt
TOR: 397.8 F
VI: 151
75W140
P/P: -59.8 F
F/P: +429.8 F
V/100: 179.0 cSt
V/212: 25.3 cSt
TOR: 489.6 F
VI: 175
SYNTHETIC ATF
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +456.8 F
V/100: 34.0 cSt
V/212: 7.6 cSt
TOR: 522.0 F
VI: 203
JET OIL II
P/P: -74.2 F
F/P: +518.0 F
V/100: 27.6 cSt
V/212: 5.1 cSt
TOR: 592.2 F
VI: 113
JET OIL 254
P/P: -79.6 F
F/P: +489.0 F
V/100: 26.4 cSt
V/212: 5.3 cSt
TOR: 568.6 F
VI: 137
JET OIL 284
P/P: -70.6 F
F/P: +442.4 F
V/100: 17.6 cSt
V/212: 4.0 cSt
TOR: 513.0 F
VI: 128
MILITEC-1 (for comparison purposes only)
P/P: -45.0 F
F/P: +455.0 F
V/100: 43.41 cSt
V/212: 5.63 cSt
TOR: 500.0 F
VI: 63
Top 5 Criteria Compliant Grades:
1. 20W50 (VTWIN)
2. 10W40 (MX4T)
3. 5W50
4. 0W40
5. 0w30
WD40 is shit for guns, I'll give you that, it's not even a real lubricant.
A firearm isn't that much different than an engine; heat, pressure, and the presence of carbon are all common factors. IMO no gun lube will ever match the superior lubrication properties of a commercially developed synthetic motor oil. Motor oils are designed to withstand breakdown due to heat, actively clean and absorb carbon, and provide lubrication. I've used mobil 1 for the past several hundred rounds I've shot and there's no carbon stuck on the bcg, its all caught in the motor oil. The most extensive cleaning I ever do is a quick wipe down of the bcg. The one area I think lacking with motor oil is corrosion protection. An engine's crankcase is sealed off from the environment so I don't think corrosion protection was ever a major part of the design criteria.
Ok, I have been holding back on this topic for a while but I will say what I have to say. I wouldn't go near any of my rifles or guns with motor oil, forget WD40! motor oil is just that, MOTOR OIL (engine oil),which contains additives and detergents for CAR ENGINES. I am in no way an expert on this topic but the only way I would use a lube like motor oil is if I was in a situation where I had no other choice to keep it lubed. Just my honest opinion. Any chemists want to chime in and possibly convince me otherwise?
Break free CLP and Slip 2000 EWL for the most part. Grease on specific applications.
I appreciate all the information and agree that as far as a lube, motor oil is superior in many ways. I'm weary of the additives and detergents, that are specific to engines and also the toxics/toxins involved that you are exposed to on different levels. If your ok running with these then I respect that, but I will stick to the ones mentioned: Break free CLP and Slip 2000 EWL for the most part. Grease on specific applications. Again I respect all of your information and impute and I am in no way trying to start a shit storm.
SpaceWrangler
04-01-11, 08:57
I saw an ad for a new gun lube in a products magazine at the PD, and can't for the life of me, remember what the name was....it was touted as going on wet, and penetrating and drying to a nice, super slick dry lubricant. It was in a small squeeze bottle with a pointed aplicator tip, I think.
Sounds like Dri-Slide...
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1247
Sounds like Dri-Slide...
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1247
No, thats not the one I saw in the mag. It was a "new" product, in a new product section. But, that Dri-Slide does pique my interest. I wish some of these companies would send out samples for T&E. Wait, I think I still have some Militec samples that they sent me YEARS ago to try out. :eek: Maybe I will try that out, so I won't have EWL dripping out of my duty gun anymore.
Heavy Metal
04-01-11, 09:52
Reciprocation metal parts is reciprocation metal parts. The motor oils out there are designed to work in much tougher conditions than a gun.
Not wanting to rewrite any of this myself, you must look at what the oils are designed to protect against, not where the bottle says it goes. Here is a good summary:
Except Motor Oil is designed for a sealed system that is actively re-lubricated with an oil pump. It relies primarily on hydrodynamic lubrication.
A firearm is an open system with no active re-lubrication. It needs a lube that relies heavily on boundary film mechanisms to lubricate.
Currently using Slip 2000 EWL.
Got turned on to it from reading here. So far, I really like it. It's a HUGE step up from the cheapo crap that I was using previously, and it doesn't seem to burn off in two shots like the other stuff either. Haven't had a chance to do any hard shooting with it yet, so I guess we'll see.
The car oil thing is interesting. I just can't bring myself to do that [yet...].
Will see how it "performs" as it's intended.
I'm interested to hear your thoughts on it's performance - on your gun of course, not a 'Ritz Cracker'!! ;)
Thanks...................
SLIP2000EWL - Great stuff..
christcorp
04-01-11, 11:03
1. CLP: For moving parts like springs, hammer, trigger, etc...
2. Lithium Grease: For metal on metal parts like barrels, slides, bolts, carrier groups, etc... Very inexpensive and easy to use.
3. Mobil-1 motor oil: I use this when I'm stripping or disassembling guns. I put the motor oil in a small pan. Then i take the disassembled parts and put them in the pan.
I only totally disassemble a gun about once a year. The rest of the time, I simply spray Clp on the mechanism parts and lithium grease on the metal on metal parts. I refuse to buy and pay for hype in marketing products.
Except Motor Oil is designed for a sealed system that is actively re-lubricated with an oil pump. It relies primarily on hydrodynamic lubrication.
A firearm is an open system with no active re-lubrication. It needs a lube that relies heavily on boundary film mechanisms to lubricate.
When you first crank an engine, the oil pressure is zero, so motor oil has to do a very good job protecting wear under those circumstances, and are engineered for same. As a result, the film lubrication properties of a good synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1, Royal Purple) are superior to all but a very few "gun oils", if you look at the specs. Also, the anti-wear additive packs of motor oil are often a lot easier to figure out. I suspect a lot of gun oils don't even have ZDDP in the mix.
Keep in mind that a lot of the toxicity of motor oils relates to used oil (that has absorbed carcinogenic gasoline-combustion byproducts for 3000+ miles of driving), not fresh-from-the-container oil.
wetidlerjr
04-01-11, 12:31
When you first crank an engine, the oil pressure is zero, so motor oil has to do a very good job protecting wear under those circumstances, and are engineered for same. As a result, the film lubrication properties of a good synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1, Royal Purple) are superior to all but a very few "gun oils", if you look at the specs...
I agree. I have used synthetic motor oil for quite a few years with no adverse effects.
jackblack73
04-01-11, 14:14
Slip2000 is great. I just wish it would stay put a little better so I'm not constantly wiping down my gun. If only Slip2000 30 was more readily available. I can't bring myself to pay the same amount for shipping as the product.
I asked the same question about chain lube in a mountain biking forum. So far there are about 15 different answers, but 2-3 seem to be more common. Many use Mobil 1 as well. The similarities are surprising. I even found a thread on benos in which some shooters were using a chain lube for their pistols.
LUCAS Oil products makes a gun oil that works well. It comes in a small 2fl oz. bottle. Their automotive products are top notch..
An Undocumented Worker
04-03-11, 09:37
Okay, this arrived today:
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/FrogLube.jpg
Smells like Methylsalicylate/Menthol (BenGay). Haven't "tasted" it yet. :p Anyways, here's an excerpt:
"It. . .will clean & moisturize skin." Hmmm. . .
Will see how it "performs" as it's intended.
Sounds kinda like Balistol, the germans used the stuff to clean and lube weapons and to treat wounds.
Been using this stuff for years. http://www.outers-guncare.com/products/chemicals/default.aspx
I do use BF CLP
Anyone try this stuff?
http://www.clenzoil.com/field__range.aspx
using slip 2000 now but theres alot of great stuff on the market
Okay, just my observations on the FrogLube. This is simply an unconventional "in-house" finding and nothing else. Note, I did not have the opportunity to fire the weapon as of yet.
Received the FrogLube on Friday and following the directions I applied the product to my BCG and the inside of the upper. Did that Friday, Saturday, and this morning. By the way, I dunked the bolt into the "melted" (microwaved paste for 30 seconds) paste a few times. Also put very liberal amount onto the bolt carrier.
Here's what it appears at room temperature (58F degrees inside my home) and after more than 60 minutes of dry time from last application this morning. So it's been a few hours of dry time now, since I took the pictures about half an hour or so ago.
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_ii.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_iv.jpg
Looks like it "coagulated" in the latter picture. Don't know if that's a good thing or not. I did a liberal application to the BCG the previous days. Maybe too much and did not wipe off excess?
Here's what it appears after using a hair-dryer-blower (I don't have a heat gun) set on HI-HEAT for some 30~45 seconds. [Does any gun ever get hot when being fired? I can only imagine! ;)]
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_v.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_vi.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_vii.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_viii.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_ix.jpg
What's interesting to me, is that when the FrogLube "dries," the BCG feels kind of slick, not greasy and not wet. When heated up the seemingly "dry" FrogLube does get "wet," not just moist, but wet and remains that way until it cools down.
I'll see how the n4lr functions with the FrogLube when I go to the range sometime later next week and report back.
By the way, the FrogLube has no taste at all to my tastebuds! :D
warlord260
04-03-11, 21:03
You tasted it?...
Thomas M-4
04-03-11, 21:15
Ok, I have been holding back on this topic for a while but I will say what I have to say. I wouldn't go near any of my rifles or guns with motor oil, forget WD40! motor oil is just that, MOTOR OIL (engine oil),which contains additives and detergents for CAR ENGINES. I am in no way an expert on this topic but the only way I would use a lube like motor oil is if I was in a situation where I had no other choice to keep it lubed. Just my honest opinion. Any chemists want to chime in and possibly convince me otherwise?
Break free CLP and Slip 2000 EWL for the most part. Grease on specific applications.
Wrong Wrong Wrong!!
Have you ever worked on a Briggs & Stratton I would say no because it has no oil pump it merely uses splash lubrication. Most automobile engines use only pressurized oiling to the crank bearing and cam bearings. Most of the time the valve train and rings are splashed lubricated. There are some exceptions but 99% use splash lubrication some were in the engine. Since you obviously do not know how engines work please stop spreading that crap internet bull shit.
Wrong Wrong Wrong!!
Have you ever worked on a Briggs & Stratton I would say no because it has no oil pump it merely uses splash lubrication. Most automobile engines use only pressurized oiling to the crank bearing and cam bearings. Most of the time the valve train and rings are splashed lubricated. There are some exceptions but 99% use splash lubrication some were in the engine. Since you obviously do not know how engines work please stop spreading that crap internet bull shit.
I agree I have been using motor oil Castrol syn.20w/50 for years on my AR it does not stain and stays wet during long round counts and shooting Russian laquire steel case ammo all day it works Great. I had a few guns lubed with CLP and it just dried up and left a stain on the metal parts and I had a bottle of CLP I had in one of my range bags and it dried up in the bottle. Motor oil does not do that :thank_you2:
Thomas M-4
04-03-11, 22:08
Except Motor Oil is designed for a sealed system that is actively re-lubricated with an oil pump. It relies primarily on hydrodynamic lubrication.
A firearm is an open system with no active re-lubrication. It needs a lube that relies heavily on boundary film mechanisms to lubricate.
Dang man didn't think you would post that HM. Normal lawn mower engines do not have a oil pump they use splash lubrication , and 99% of the engines on the road use slash lubrication for the valve train and rings pressurized oil is normally only feed to the crank bearings and cam bearings. On a 5hp lawn mower engine the whole thing is splash lubricated. The main objective of pressurized lubrication is to create an oil wedge between the bearing surfaces on a crankshaft it has to deal with pressure of the power stroke and high RPM on the camshaft same principle the oil wedge is to counteract the valve spring pressure. Please dude look it up splash lubrication happens in some form in almost every engine.
Not saying that motor oil is the end all be all I haven't tried every gun oil on the market but I have tried a lot of them the closest specific gun lube that I have tried that compares to good motor oil is machine gunners lube.
Wrong Wrong Wrong!!
Have you ever worked on a Briggs & Stratton I would say no because it has no oil pump it merely uses splash lubrication. Most automobile engines use only pressurized oiling to the crank bearing and cam bearings. Most of the time the valve train and rings are splashed lubricated. There are some exceptions but 99% use splash lubrication some were in the engine. Since you obviously do not know how engines work please stop spreading that crap internet bull shit.
I guess you didn't read my next post: "I appreciate all the information and agree that as far as a lube, motor oil is superior in many ways. I'm weary of the additives and detergents, that are specific to engines and also the toxics/toxins involved that you are exposed to on different levels. If your ok running with these then I respect that, but I will stick to the ones mentioned: Break free CLP and Slip 2000 EWL for the most part. Grease on specific applications. Again I respect all of your information and impute and I am in no way trying to start a shit storm". As stated its my opinion and no I am not an expert on this subject matter as also stated...but it is my opinion which if thats what you call crap, ok...
Heavy Metal
04-03-11, 23:03
Dang man didn't think you would post that HM. Normal lawn mower engines do not have a oil pump they use splash lubrication , and 99% of the engines on the road use slash lubrication for the valve train and rings pressurized oil is normally only feed to the crank bearings and cam bearings. On a 5hp lawn mower engine the whole thing is splash lubricated. The main objective of pressurized lubrication is to create an oil wedge between the bearing surfaces on a crankshaft it has to deal with pressure of the power stroke and high RPM on the camshaft same principle the oil wedge is to counteract the valve spring pressure. Please dude look it up splash lubrication happens in some form in almost every engine.
Not saying that motor oil is the end all be all I haven't tried every gun oil on the market but I have tried a lot of them the closest specific gun lube that I have tried that compares to good motor oil is machine gunners lube.
Yes, it is splash lubricated It is also a sealed system, the AR is an open system.
Macine Gunners lube is good lube but is is a moly-based lube and not similar to motor oil. Closer to a gear oil.
Paladin801
04-04-11, 06:25
Okay, just my observations on the FrogLube. This is simply an unconventional "in-house" finding and nothing else. Note, I did not have the opportunity to fire the weapon as of yet.
Received the FrogLube on Friday and following the directions I applied the product to my BCG and the inside of the upper. Did that Friday, Saturday, and this morning. By the way, I dunked the bolt into the "melted" (microwaved paste for 30 seconds) paste a few times. Also put very liberal amount onto the bolt carrier.
Here's what it appears at room temperature (58F degrees inside my home) and after more than 60 minutes of dry time from last application this morning. So it's been a few hours of dry time now, since I took the pictures about half an hour or so ago.
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_ii.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_iv.jpg
Looks like it "coagulated" in the latter picture. Don't know if that's a good thing or not. I did a liberal application to the BCG the previous days. Maybe too much and did not wipe off excess?
Here's what it appears after using a hair-dryer-blower (I don't have a heat gun) set on HI-HEAT for some 30~45 seconds. [Does any gun ever get hot when being fired? I can only imagine! ;)]
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_v.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_vi.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_vii.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_viii.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_RmTmp_ix.jpg
What's interesting to me, is that when the FrogLube "dries," the BCG feels kind of slick, not greasy and not wet. When heated up the seemingly "dry" FrogLube does get "wet," not just moist, but wet and remains that way until it cools down.
I'll see how the n4lr functions with the FrogLube when I go to the range sometime later next week and report back.
By the way, the FrogLube has no taste at all to my tastebuds! :D
I, at first thought this was just another gimmick. We've all seen a bizzillion of them. I've been guilty of biting on many myself. First of all, this isn't a gimmick. It really works. As far as the coagulated picture goes, blow dry it some more, let it dry and then wipe excess off. I'm far from an expert, but have used a similar product for years on my muzzle loader and this seasoning process works. I've been muzzle loading way since before pyrodex and triple seven with no problems. FL is ten times better than the stuff I've been using.Some things that sometimes sound too good to be true aren't. This stuff is just flat out good. No plans to eat it though. I'm gonna be using this on all my guns. Glad I found out about it. Thanks for the opportunity to voice my opinion on this.
About the frog lube post above....mind you, I have not used it, but the reading I did on it, advised to wipe it on and wipe it off. Those pics of it "coagulating" on the bolt, looks like you have entirely too much on there. I think its intended as a minimalist, penetrant dry type lube, not a hose-your-gun-with-it lube. I am going to try some out, I think.
On another note, and what brought me back to this thread; I have been using slip2000 EWL for the last year or two, and tried many other products before that. Well, last night I was in the garage, putting together an upper, and all that was handy was some old breakfree CLP. I was going to use it, just as a protectant, as the parts went together. But, after lubing everything, this upper seems much slicker, when working the charging handle, than my guns with the EWL. It even feels slicker to the touch. I had forgotten how slick Breakfree clp was. It also doesn't run and drip off everything as bad as the EWL. You spread it around really thin, and it leaves a nice thin, slick film of lube on everything.
So, I think I am going back to what I started with in basic training, in 1995, Breakfree clp, until I get around to ordering some frog lube to try. Just wondering, why everyone seems to rave about the EWL so much? While it does seem to keep fouling fairly loose, and easy to remove, you have to really soak the gun to achieve that. Plus, the EWL, after drying out, which doesn't take very long, it leaves a blue/green patina inside my flash hiders, and it just doesn't seem as slick as other lubes. :confused:
Paladin801
04-04-11, 07:00
Jim you are absolutely correct on "too" much. I tried to get across, but failed that when the metal gets seasoned and enough, it'll do that. That's the clue that you have enough. I really think you'll like it as I am. Thanks !
Pathfinder Ops
04-04-11, 07:29
LUCAS Oil products makes a gun oil that works well. It comes in a small 2fl oz. bottle. Their automotive products are top notch..
Hmmmm I did not know this and I'm interested. I agree with Lucas being a good product line.
Thanks for the heads up.
NavyDavy55
04-04-11, 08:28
Weaponshield CLP, but after reading this thread I may check out some SLIP2000.
Thomas M-4
04-04-11, 09:02
Yes, it is splash lubricated It is also a sealed system, the AR is an open system.
Macine Gunners lube is good lube but is is a moly-based lube and not similar to motor oil. Closer to a gear oil.
Yes, it is splash lubricated It is also a sealed system, the AR is an open system.
If your point is corrosion protection I will concede that motor oil may not be the best corrosion resistance oil. But on parkerized weapons treated with motor oil I have never witnessed corrosion even after being stored in a evidence room 2 1/2 yrs. I also wonder how these none petroleum based lubricants would handle water will the water bead up on them or will it cut into the oil.
Another for SLIP2000 EWL, I've been using CLP for quite sometime and while it might be better in my opinion for breaking down some carbon, for lube purposes, the Slip is just a bit thicker and really stays where it's put and seems to last a lot longer.
The frog sounds a bit like Mad Dog XL-7 which I tried a few years back. There is a good thread on this same issue around that time wherein a member IIRC Todd Ackerman liked XL-7 as a base, then WeaponShield on top. I tried that, but found no appreciable difference against simply using WeaponShield. Saves a step, and use the WS as a CLP as well. Let us know if Frog is better than WS.
Heavy Metal
04-04-11, 10:02
If your point is corrosion protection I will concede that motor oil may not be the best corrosion resistance oil. But on parkerized weapons treated with motor oil I have never witnessed corrosion even after being stored in a evidence room 2 1/2 yrs. I also wonder how these none petroleum based lubricants would handle water will the water bead up on them or will it cut into the oil.
My point is in a closed system, either by splash or by pump, the motor oil is constantly being re-applied. There is no such mechanism in a rifle.
philipeggo
04-04-11, 10:07
The frog lube website states that its not compatible with any lube made out of petroleum . This bothers me because in a pinch im using whatever can to keep my rifles lubed. Any thoughts ?
I've always just used Hoppes oil on just about everything in the AR and never really had a problem. I've used some grease on the slide rails of my pistols with good success too.
The frog lube website states that its not compatible with any lube made out of petroleum . This bothers me because in a pinch im using whatever can to keep my rifles lubed. Any thoughts ?
The instruction card that came with the product states this:
WARNING: IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO SWITCH BACK AND FORTH BETWEEN FROGLUBE AND OTHER PETROLEUM CLP PRODUCTS. FROGLUBE WILL DISSOLVE PETROLEUM ON CONTACT.
Found this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x76MEfxpP50
DiabhailGadhar
04-09-11, 15:13
I'm trying Motorex 4t fully synthetic racing oil....I figure if my bike runs up to 13500 RPM before red line, its got to be better then a car oil...and TW-25
i currently clean with clp and lube it with lp. i used to use rem oil in the past and never had a problem.
that slip2000 EWL sounds interesting. never heard of it. gonna try it out soon and put up some feed back on that stuff.
Heavy Metal
04-09-11, 21:35
Anybody here remember Nanolube? With the diamond spheres?
Some people had samples. Whatever happened with that?
Thomas M-4
04-09-11, 21:49
My point is in a closed system, either by splash or by pump, the motor oil is constantly being re-applied. There is no such mechanism in a rifle.
That could be said of most oils unless they have some sort of dry film additive that is effective after the oil is gone. Like I posted before I don't think its the end all be all for lubrication but it does perform better than the majority of the wet lubricates I have tried. I will also add that any mechanical device that I can think of utilizing piston rings will use some form of wet lubrication for the rings. That is air compressors,ac compressors , tiny 2 stroke model engines, and weed eater engines [ the later 2 also normally having chrome lined bores same as the ar-15 carrier] get some form of wet lubrication.
philipeggo
04-09-11, 22:45
This stuff ?
http://www.diamondlube.com/Products.php
Anybody here remember Nanolube? With the diamond spheres?
Some people had samples. Whatever happened with that?
Okay, did some shooting to see how the FrogLube performs. Yes I know 300 rounds isn't enough, but that's all the time I had.
It does get "wet" when fired and stays that way. So for this little tid bit of an "exercise," it does perform as the manufacture says. When hot, it's wet. When the weapon cools down, it's "dry."
When I came home and took out the BCG I wiped it as the instructions stated.
In this shot the carrier is already wiped:
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_AfterFire.jpg
All wiped:
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_AfterFire_ii.jpg
Up close:
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae360/chc_hmc/BCG_FrogLube_AfterFire_iii.jpg
This is an observation to see how FrogLube did. Nothing "scientific," just an unconventional observation/impression of mine.
So far, it's performing as is. Again, I did no HIGH ROUND count firing. I'm going to keep using FrogLube and see how it does for the next outing and so forth. So far I'm liking it!
Okay, did some shooting to see how the FrogLube performs. Yes I know 300 rounds isn't enough, but that's all the time I had.
It does get "wet" when fired and stays that way. So for this little tid bit of an "exercise," it does perform as the manufacture says. When hot, it's wet. When the weapon cools down, it's "dry."
When I came home and took out the BCG I wiped it as the instructions stated.
This is an observation to see how FrogLube did. Nothing "scientific," just an unconventional observation/impression of mine.
So far, it's performing as is. Again, I did no HIGH ROUND count firing. I'm going to keep using FrogLube and see how it does for the next outing and so forth. So far I'm liking it!
================================
Are you using the "Paste" or the "Liquid"?
.
Are you using the "Paste" or the "Liquid"?
Hands on with the Paste. At least no "fumes" to worry about indoors as with other lubes/cleaners.
mike boufford
04-10-11, 20:22
This is a great thread for the newbie, and with AR's I am a definite newbie.
I've had a lot of experience with hunting weapons and a fair bit of experience with semi-auto handguns and revolvers. I have been using CMD Lube on 1911 rails, semi auto shotgun rails, all of the pivot points on my O/U shotguns, and revolver star extractor pivots. This is a high pressure grease that stays put. My choke tubes all get Super Lube (teflon blend) as it is a great anti seize grease that I used in mass quantities rebuilding bearing sets on my road bikes (pedal type). I have been using FP-10 and Breakfree CLP on all other parts (bushings, full length guide rods, barrels, etc...
Now for the newbie question: can you over lube an AR?
sonofagun2012
04-10-11, 22:11
Always been happy with CLP for normal gun operation.
wetidlerjr
04-11-11, 04:24
...Now for the newbie question: can you over lube an AR?
See here: Too Much Lube ? (https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=78137)
"Search" is your friend. :D
mike boufford
04-11-11, 17:21
See here: Too Much Lube ? (https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=78137)
"Search" is your friend. :D
Thanks for the link. After I posted I found the lubing thread too.
ClearedHot
04-11-11, 19:05
How does mil issue LSA factor into the myriad of weapons lubes? My buddy said it's all he used in his M240 when deployed and worked well.
Tetra grease on the BCG rails, Slip EWL on the bolt and gas rings.
I also run the Tetra grease on my pistol rails and feedramp. But I make sure to wipe it good from the feedramp so it does not build up on it. The teflon in the grease works great for feeding. The feedramps are usually the only thing I clean if I don't clean feel like cleaning it.
Tetra grease on the BCG rails, Slip EWL on the bolt and gas rings.
I also run the Tetra grease on my pistol rails and feedramp. But I make sure to wipe it good from the feedramp so it does not build up on it. The teflon in the grease works great for feeding. The feedramps are usually the only thing I clean if I don't clean feel like cleaning it.
Similar to my routine, except to swap TW25 for the tetra and Weaponshield for the slip. :cool:
Always been happy with CLP for normal gun operation.
We're pretty abnormal here though... so.... ;)
For me "normal" means zero percent failure, regardless of how I'm shooting, and I'm willing to upgrade where necessary to make that happen...not the least of which something as easy as lube choice ;)
Work2shoot
06-03-11, 18:08
I know it's been said before but slip 2000 ewl is amazing. I'm using it for the first time and it has made my mossy and 1911 feel like they're running on glass!
I clean everything using breakfree.
I lube everything using TW25B. It's awesome.
I've used alot of lubes,,but have settled on Machine Gun Lube,,I get it from LaRue Tactical !!! I received a small sample bottle with a order and liked it so much I bought a big bottle of it !! Great lube,,sticks and stays where ya put it. I have used it in all weather,,from Hot Humid weather to 15/20 degrees in the winter with great results !! :) Good stuff.
+1, kind of dry and dusty here in Colorado, a thin coat works best for me. But to be honest, I've tried allmost every kind of lube available out there, and they have all worked just fine. The amount of lube to amount of carbon build up seems to be more important that the kind of lube in my opinion.
In the AR world i am a FNG, but for my Autos (Sig, M&P) i use Weapon Shield CLP and grease, and honestly my Sig's which have a few thousand rounds through them, but now look brand new. I carry a M&P 9c every day, and once a week I just give it a good look over by just removing the slide and checking the rails, barrel etc.. Everything looks just like I just cleaned it , and put on a fresh coat of CLP and grease.
I will say now, I am tempted to pick up some frog lube and use on my sig Pro, as a side by side comparison to my MP which I will keep WS on.
I just joined here to learn as much as I can about the AR platform, and looking to build my first in the next few months.
shaneinhisroom
06-24-11, 11:37
I use Balistol...it stinks when it gets burnt up and needs a reoiling every 500-800 rounds, but it works for me, dirt cheap and is a great all in one. I may pick up some EWL though, everyone seems to rave about it.
Bad Medicine
06-24-11, 11:39
Hops 9
Wally World synthetic 10W-30. Just ran Tactical Pistol with TigerSwan and all the USP received was the oil. No probs. The 6933 and 6920 run on the 10W-30 as well. No issues. I see no need to pay for any lubricating oil more expensive than this considering how well it has performed in high round count classes.
Same here.......hard to beat for around $2.50/qt! The stuff stays on and doesn't burn off and also reduces carbon fouling making clean up super quick and simple.
+1 for Slip EWL. Their water-based cleaner is pretty great too.
Someone mentioned TriFlow which is a Teflon chain lube. I got a recommendation to use ATB (Absolutely the Best) Chain Lube and have been using it ever since. It was recommended for AR style rifles but I find it works great on all firearms, especially hand guns. Love the stuff!
reachout&touch
06-24-11, 19:09
Using FrogLube for the last 6 months or so and like it quite a bit. It does not stink, it's bio-degradable, and carbon does not bake on. all you have to do is wipe it off and re-apply.
BreakFree CLP on the AR.
Wheel bearing grease on the Glock.
Used to be able to get CLP on base and at Academy - now neither of them carry it. Last looked maybe 6 monts ago.
Will try Slip 2000 EWL eventually.
Edit: I tried wheel bearing grease on my AR for almost a year.
Big mistake.
Compared to CLP or other conventional liquid lubes, the BCG slowed quicker, the BCG got gunked up quicker, and the gun was more of a PITA to clean.
Not recommended at all.
I, at first thought this was just another gimmick. We've all seen a bizzillion of them. I've been guilty of biting on many myself. First of all, this isn't a gimmick. It really works. As far as the coagulated picture goes, blow dry it some more, let it dry and then wipe excess off. I'm far from an expert, but have used a similar product for years on my muzzle loader and this seasoning process works. I've been muzzle loading way since before pyrodex and triple seven with no problems. FL is ten times better than the stuff I've been using.Some things that sometimes sound too good to be true aren't. This stuff is just flat out good. No plans to eat it though. I'm gonna be using this on all my guns. Glad I found out about it. Thanks for the opportunity to voice my opinion on this.
Yes, that "coagulated" (gelling) look turned out to be fine, especially when heated up (especially when live firing). That to me seems normal, and it doesn't gel up into a solid hard stuff. Again, not that it's recommended, but the FrogLube doesn't have any taste at all! :p
This is what I'm running now with great results thus far:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=817320
I've used (and still do) Brian Enos' Slide Glide and Gun Butter. Mobil 1 20W50 works, too.
I prefer Ultima Lube (thick oil) over a bit of Slide Glide (thin grease).
Another vote for Slip2000 ewl
I'm a big fan of Slip-2000
An Undocumented Worker
11-12-11, 19:46
The newest CLP was written up in gun tests magazine, Graded A and has Non Detonation Nanodiamond instead of teflon. Email chris@diamondlube.com for a PDF copy. The Original NanoLube TM.
Why would I want abrasives in my lubricant?
MRevolutionIX
11-12-11, 20:53
I use a combination of Shooters Choice FP10 and Gun Slick graphite grease on all my guns.
The newest CLP was written up in gun tests magazine, Graded A and has Non Detonation Nanodiamond instead of teflon. Email chris@diamondlube.com for a PDF copy. The Original NanoLube TM.
I have no idea what that red part means, but I'll look in to it.
Thanks.
I use a combination of Shooters Choice FP10 and Gun Slick graphite grease on all my guns.
==========================================
You might want to do a little research on the problems of graphite on aluminum.
.
Littlelebowski
11-13-11, 12:37
The newest CLP was written up in gun tests magazine, Graded A and has Non Detonation Nanodiamond instead of teflon. Email chris@diamondlube.com for a PDF copy. The Original NanoLube TM.
There's rules about sponsorship, astroturfing, and disclosure here.
I'm down on the sandy, windy, Tex-Mex border and tried Froglube on the advice of a Class III dealer. Never been happier with a lube. When not shooting it is "dry" and doesn't attract sand. But when shooting it's slick as snot!
I noticed that at least one poster was over-lubing with FL, which is a no-no. A tiny bit will do it, and even then you should wipe off the excess after.
Was using Breakfree before, but it attracted and held too much wind blown sand.
Dionysusigma
11-13-11, 13:14
Have a quart of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30 I've been using for... a very long time, now. Even works as a cleaner in a pinch. :)
Littlelebowski
11-13-11, 13:36
I'm a recent FrogLube convert.
I'm a recent FrogLube convert.
Was thinking about trying it. I keep hearing good things.
Littlelebowski
11-13-11, 16:49
I'm down on the sandy, windy, Tex-Mex border and tried Froglube on the advice of a Class III dealer. Never been happier with a lube. When not shooting it is "dry" and doesn't attract sand. But when shooting it's slick as snot!
I noticed that at least one poster was over-lubing with FL, which is a no-no. A tiny bit will do it, and even then you should wipe off the excess after.
Was using Breakfree before, but it attracted and held too much wind blown sand.
My experience mirrors yours. Lube, wipe off the excess, and grin as a dry appearing bolt gets slick with oil as you shoot.
I'm sold. Sounds like good stuff.
Just went and did some shooting with antlad, temps were in the high teens, and we were outside for about 4 hours. I was running Hoppe's Elite, which I have never had a problem with, antlad was running froglube. Both rifles worked extremely well, I think that I may send in my own order for froglube sometime soon. My wife will appreciate it next time I am inside cleaning guns.......
I use Weapon Shield before storing my personal weapons for long deployments. I've never had rust issues with this product.
For immediate use, I apply a thin layer of Slip 2000 before going to the range (when home) or when leaving the FOB on deployments.
I use Breakfree CLP mostly. I also have some Lucas gun oil.
My 9mm Glocks and Colt 6920s run fine. Go figure huh?
ProShot (the same folks selling patches) Zero Friction is slicker than elephant snot.
This is the first year I've ran fl on the winter. The temps have been in the high teens so far but have not experienced any issues. I had some email dialogue a while back with fl and they stated it is recommended all excess lube be wiped from surfaces at 0 and below. I have not tested this in the extreme cold yet but if it works well with or without the excess Lube I will change over to fl exclusively for all my guns.
Shoulderthinggoesup
11-14-11, 11:17
I am very happy with the Prolix i picked up. It is a wet lube that goes dry after application and has served me well. It is also non-toxic and smells pretty good. That said I use CLP for basic field lube.
domestique
11-14-11, 11:52
Lube: Breakfree CLP
grease: tetra (I use on my M14/1911/M&P 9mm.... anything where metal touches metal
I was using Slip 2000 EWL, but I've been trying out the Machine Gunners lube. I got a couple of small bottles with a Larue order and an order from Sprinco for a white buffer spring.
The MGL is slick, more so than the EWL. I especially like how it doesn't seem to run as much when applied as compared to the EWL. It also doesn't seem to dry as fast. After a few weeks in storage, the parts lubed with the MGL are still slippery as hell. An extremely light coating also makes the parts incredibly easy to clean off.
Hi-temp lithium wheel bearing grease. $3.00 from Walmart and I am using the same tub I bought in 2006.
Slip 2000 or Mobil 1 for rifle and Astroglide for my gun.
Hi-temp lithium wheel bearing grease. $3.00 from Walmart and I am using the same tub I bought in 2006.
This works surprisingly well
Slip, Breakfree, Mobil 1, which ever I grab off the shelf first. Usually Slip since it sits right next to the safe.
HardLuck682
11-15-11, 08:45
I've been using WeaponShield the entire time I have been in Afghanistan with no problems at all, in both my M4 and Beretta. I emailed and asked FrogLube if they could send me something to try their product, I will use that here, run a few range sessions, and see how well it works.
SilverTongueDevil
11-15-11, 13:36
Gunzilla works pretty nice and stays pretty slick. It does a good job not collecting dust out on the west deserts of Utah.
Cleans great and has no real smell. The more I use it the faster the clean up jobs seem.
ive been running froglube for the last 8 months and only have good things to say about it. i use to use slip2000 and still do on some guns just because i need to order more froglube i use this stuff for more than just guns now.
i use CLP and i also use Montana Gun Grease for some applications.
i clean bores and chambers with Hoppe 9
Hi-temp lithium wheel bearing grease. $3.00 from Walmart and I am using the same tub I bought in 2006.
very interesting.
i have some hi-stress moly-kote wheel bearing grease from 3M that i use in my PCP air rifles...maybe i'll try it in the AR. ;)
AR-15:
Break Free LP generously on the bolt and bolt carrier rails.
Break Free CLP lightly on the firing pin and ejector plunger.
Break Free CLP lightly everywhere else.
Semi-Auto Pistols:
Break Free CLP generously on the slide rails, barrel link/cam, and locking lugs.
Light CLP everywhere else.
(Except carry 1911, which gets light grease on rails and lugs, light CLP everywhere else.)
.22 rifles, Mini-14, pump shotguns:
Break Free CLP.
Would there be a problem with putting hi-temp wheel bearing grease on the carrier rails? (light film)
Grease retains firing by-products whereas Breakfree LP or CLP, or a similar liquid lube, suspends them and then you can just wipe it off. Liquid lube cleans up much easier than contaminated grease. For instance, if you use Breakfree LP or CLP, you can clean up with CLP and keep on going. If you use grease, you have to use some solvent to dissolve the grease and then re-lubricate. If you lube with Breakfree LP or CLP, and you're out in the field and fire a bunch of rounds, just adding more CLP will tend to wash out the contaminated stuff. But if you lube with grease, and add more grease, you're just getting more gunked up grease.
Only thing I use grease on is the rails and lugs of carry 1911s, because (1) I don't want CLP to run onto my clothes, and (2) if you ever have to use it, you're not going to fire a carry 1911 enough times to gunk up the grease.
It seems like a lot of people are using Mobil 1 or other synthetic motor oil with good success. But after reading this article from Grant Cunningham ...
I found this awhile back...
fwiw...http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
I wonder if anyone has tried using synthetic ATF (maybe with some Slick 50 added)? I am a little concerned about prolonged exposure to additives (benzene, etc.) that are used in motor oil but not in ATF. Is ATF too thin? :confused:
GeorgiaBoy
11-16-11, 17:31
Slip 2000/2000 EWL.
Either works for me. I like the fact its non-toxic, compared to ol' CLP.
davidjinks
11-16-11, 22:34
Breakfree CLP
I've been using it for 20 years and it hasn't failed me. I've used others but nothing has really shocked and awed me.
I just ordered Frog Lube. I'm going to give that a try and see how it works. Maybe I will be shocked and awed...
Froglube= Champagne. Breakfree CLP= Piss. Trust me, if you use it properly you will like it.
Breakfree CLP
I've been using it for 20 years and it hasn't failed me. I've used others but nothing has really shocked and awed me.
I just ordered Frog Lube. I'm going to give that a try and see how it works. Maybe I will be shocked and awed...
I am new to AR's and noticed that my old oils seem to vanish from BCG pretty quickly. I should have seen this thread two days ago, when I ordered BF CLP 100ml bottle for 10,00€. I could buy Mobil Delvac 10W-30 one litre for 6,50€ from local super market.
Lesson learned...
Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic.
I've found it to last for up to 400 rds on my BCGs without having to reapply.
Froglube= Champagne.
It's FRENCH???? :mad:
Awwww MAN!!! Now I see where the name came from!
It's FRENCH???? :mad:
Awwww MAN!!! Now I see where the name came from!
Good one! Classic!:lol:
Now to get this post back on point. It works great. When the weapon is hot, it's slicker than anything I've ever tried. Just to reiterating IG's point, use it properly. If youre lazy like me, stick your BCG in the toaster for about a minute to heat it for application. ;)
Saleen4971
11-17-11, 08:47
My point is in a closed system, either by splash or by pump, the motor oil is constantly being re-applied. There is no such mechanism in a rifle.
A car engines oil system isn't sealed. There is always a pcv valve and crankcase breather.
Sent from my MB860
There come a point when you find a product that does everything necessary, almost any of the modern oils with Teflon will work as good as they need to on a gun, If oil A would give you 1 million cycles and your gun would be completely worn out before getting to 200,000. Why would you need anything better. I would be curious at how many people actually wore a gun out even the barrel.
On the use of motor oil. A car engine's piston going up and down metal to metal 3000 time a minute would equal a lot of shooting.
Littlelebowski
11-17-11, 10:15
. I would be curious at how many people actually wore a gun out even the barrel.
Right here. On my second barrel for my 5.45 AR and also wore out the lower internal parts. As far as wearing out barrels, you must not shoot a lot of long range. The long range guys consider barrels to be a disposable item like magazines.
militarymoron
11-17-11, 10:31
A car engines oil system isn't sealed. There is always a pcv valve and crankcase breather.
Sent from my MB860
call it a 'contained' system then. the point is that a gun doesn't have a system that keeps re-applying the lube like an engine does.
as for comparing the use of oil in engines to guns, and the number of cycles, it only applies when the oil is PRESENT. the issue with guns is how many the cycles the lube will stay in place or last after one application.
if you want a one to one comparison, then run your engine so the oil is nicely distributed, then run it without an oil pump. see how many cycles it'll run with only the lube that's on the parts, without any oil circulating.
we can argue about this forever, and pick apart or defend all the analogies, but it doesn't always mean that if a lube works well for one purpose, it'll work just as well for another. the only thing that matters to me when discussing a lube for guns is how well it works on guns.
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