The One Gun Solution (GP Carbine) - Reality?

[pcar157]

[QUOTE=mig1nc;2836618]I bring you, 14.5" SR-15 https://www.knightarmco.com/12011/sh...ne-mod-2-m-lok


Hi just recently joined the forum and am doing my research for an AR15. A question keeps popping in to my mind as to why there is an attraction to a 14.5 barrel as opposed to a 16"? Considering the fact that the flash hider must be pinned/welded, that eliminates the ability for being able to change the flash hider. Once the flash hider is pinned/welded, you essentially have the same size as a 16" firearm. So can you help me understand what might be the advantages of going with a 14.5" barrel?
Thanks all.

[mig1nc]

[QUOTE=pcar157;2837056]

I bring you, 14.5" SR-15 https://www.knightarmco.com/12011/sh...ne-mod-2-m-lok


Hi just recently joined the forum and am doing my research for an AR15. A question keeps popping in to my mind as to why there is an attraction to a 14.5 barrel as opposed to a 16"? Considering the fact that the flash hider must be pinned/welded, that eliminates the ability for being able to change the flash hider. Once the flash hider is pinned/welded, you essentially have the same size as a 16" firearm. So can you help me understand what might be the advantages of going with a 14.5" barrel?
Thanks all.

Hi. There's quite a few reasons. First, you should know that a competent gunsmith can un-pin a flash hider with little effort. Second, if you are talking about an unsuppressed carbine-length gas system like an M4A1, you have the same distance from the gas port to the muzzle as the original M16, which is what the system was timed for. However, if you go out to midlength or longer, you end up with much lower gas port pressure, closer to M16 port pressure, and can tune it into a very soft shooting gun. Third, it is shorter and lighter. The barrel is the heaviest part of an AR15. Lastly, and I think most importantly, it's the easiest to get as short as possible without needing NFA paperwork or use a pistol lower. If you want to go shorter with more flash suppression or are using a can, you might be able to go down to 13.9 or 13.7 inches with your mount. I guess also with a 14.5" midlength and a suppressor you end up with a better balance of bolt unlock timing compared with suppressor back-pressure.

There's probably more, but it's largely just personal choice. You can tune anything to run well if you understand how to balance mass, action spring, and gas port.

I hope that helps!

[26 Inf]

If you use pretty near any good muzzle device on a 14.5 you will be over 16 as mig mentioned, but still 1.5 shorter than a 16 incher with the same device attached.

I recently replaced the 16" barrel on mt range rifle with a 13.7" with a pinned JP Enterprises flash hider - I chose this hidewr based on its performance in testing and it's design which includes a shroud that goes over the barrel so you are pinning in a thicker area than on the barrel threads. Came out just a smidge over 16"

You can tell the difference - the 13.7 is 6.6oz lighter and the JP flash hider was .8 oz lighter than the SilencerCo ASR it replaced, for a total savings of 7.4 ounces, all most a half pound.

[ScottsBad]

Hi just recently joined the forum and am doing my research for an AR15. A question keeps popping in to my mind as to why there is an attraction to a 14.5 barrel as opposed to a 16"? Considering the fact that the flash hider must be pinned/welded, that eliminates the ability for being able to change the flash hider. Once the flash hider is pinned/welded, you essentially have the same size as a 16" firearm. So can you help me understand what might be the advantages of going with a 14.5" barrel?
Thanks all.

I have a couple 14.5" and quite a few 16". I usually go 16 because its less hassle when you want to change muzzle device. Also, there are a number of different barrel profiles that can lighten the barrel.

It is true, that a rifle with 14.5" feels a little more nimble than a 16, all else being equal. But there are other things that can change the feel and balance of the rifle significantly, including the weight of the stock and optic, also, the weight, length and diameter of the rail.

I also prefer the way a 16" mid-length shoots over a 14.5" when it comes to recoil impulse. YMMV

Finally, there is a small difference in the velocity between the 14.5 and 16.

[Wake27]

Everyone here signing the 12.5 praises got to me. I just ordered a Hodge 12.5 with the 0.69 gas port for better ammo and parts compatibility. I also ordered an upper and gas block from FCD. I’m planning on having JT build me the FCD upper with the Hodge barrel so I still need the 11.5 rail and MD, which will probably be a MAMS since I’m completely set on getting a QDC can in the future. I’ll probably put my 1-6 Razor on this and some point down the line out the 1-10 on my KAC.


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[LeonCarr]

20" A2 with Magpul Furniture and a light.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

[Leftie]

Everyone here signing the 12.5 praises got to me. I just ordered a Hodge 12.5 with the 0.69 gas port for better ammo and parts compatibility. I also ordered an upper and gas block from FCD. I’m planning on having JT build me the FCD upper with the Hodge barrel so I still need the 11.5 rail and MD, which will probably be a MAMS since I’m completely set on getting a QDC can in the future. I’ll probably put my 1-6 Razor on this and some point down the line out the 1-10 on my KAC.


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That's a heck of a nice build right there.

[shadow93]

I wish people tried to justify their answers instead of saying “20 inch with magpul furniture and a light.” What am I gaining by an extra 8” of barrel besides some insignificant velocity?

Anyways, a single do all rifle without monetary concerns would essentially (to me) be a 12.5” upper with some type of wedgelock or similarly stable rail. Pick your poison of lower/stock/grip with a G$ trigger. Add a can, a MAWL, and a Modlite to the front. A modern LPVO best covers optical needs probably either a Kahles of a Razor in either 1-6/8/10 these days in a Badger mount and add a piggyback RMR if you want a passive sight under NVG.

A legit do it all rifle isn’t going to be your hyper-lite rifle. The above basically covers all needs from CQB to distance in daylight, low light, and no light. You can do a lot of things with less but being able to do everything equally well with less is impossible.

You cut the laser/NVG you’re giving up a lot in no light. You give up the optic for say a T1 you’re giving up PID and accuracy at distance. You can cut the can and a longer barrel for more difficulty in CQB between sound and length. Its all a game of weighted trade offs. Reality says it wont be cheap or light but it’ll be a hell of a gun.


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[JediGuy]

Out of this thread and docsherm’s, I’m wondering about picking up an ACOG 3x with my SQFS on top. For my use, I think I will hold off on that and stick with interchangeable LPVO and RDS on QD mounts, until I actually get NODs.

[Ironman8]

I wish people tried to justify their answers instead of saying “20 inch with magpul furniture and a light.” What am I gaining by an extra 8” of barrel besides some insignificant velocity?

Anyways, a single do all rifle without monetary concerns would essentially (to me) be a 12.5” upper with some type of wedgelock or similarly stable rail. Pick your poison of lower/stock/grip with a G$ trigger. Add a can, a MAWL, and a Modlite to the front. A modern LPVO best covers optical needs probably either a Kahles of a Razor in either 1-6/8/10 these days in a Badger mount and add a piggyback RMR if you want a passive sight under NVG.

A legit do it all rifle isn’t going to be your hyper-lite rifle. The above basically covers all needs from CQB to distance in daylight, low light, and no light. You can do a lot of things with less but being able to do everything equally well with less is impossible.

You cut the laser/NVG you’re giving up a lot in no light. You give up the optic for say a T1 you’re giving up PID and accuracy at distance. You can cut the can and a longer barrel for more difficulty in CQB between sound and length. Its all a game of weighted trade offs. Reality says it wont be cheap or light but it’ll be a hell of a gun.


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This pretty much sums up the consensus of the thread IMO

A MAWL would be nice if I had unlimited funds, but I'd be ok with a DBAL A3 to trim some cost. For me, as a civi, having the ability to go out to ~100 (under NODs) would be more than enough and I think the A3 would get me there while saving $1k+...of course my thoughts may change down the road on that.

Out of this thread and docsherm’s, I’m wondering about picking up an ACOG 3x with my SQFS on top. For my use, I think I will hold off on that and stick with interchangeable LPVO and RDS on QD mounts, until I actually get NODs.

The ACOG/RMR is interesting to me as well, but I feel that I would give up too much daytime capability (which probably accounts for 90%+ of any training or practical use for me) by losing the extra 5X that the NX8 offers. The main thing I can see "gaining" by going that route is a lighter gun...but like I've said, that hasn't really proven to be an issue for me in actual practice.